Engine — Taking the Indian out of the Bajaj Chetak Classic

21 Апр 2015 | Author: | Комментарии к записи Engine — Taking the Indian out of the Bajaj Chetak Classic отключены

The Chetak engine

You will be to know if you don’t already this that your engine is virtually identical to any frame Vespa engine.

The two are as follows:

The stator wiring is

The exhaust is bolted onto like a T5 (but not the same not a stub like its Italian

The Classic SL has a starter motor and for all and purposes that is about the electrically as the Vespa counterparts.

It is a PX150 motor in closest with a Sprint kickstart

All seals, bearings, consumables the spark plug can be used Vespa engines, there to be a difference of fitted cruciforms no Bajaj using up their store so if a cruciform goes it may pay to do a inspection to ensure you get the right for your gear set.

Bajaj’s use short reach plugs which thanks to the VW and camper van which use the same plug, there will not be a of them anytime soon.

The covers are the same for any P200 start models as you will the difference and the longer curve at the

Fitment, cabling, rear mount are all the same as a Vespa, the really does respond I would add to a T5 rear shock as the units whilst OK are less than the sporty T5’s.

Carburettor is the perennial Dellorto for the 125’s and the 150, some with Spaco carbs but all are interchangeable.

One thing you may encounter is engine numbers which are MotoVespa Spanish engines during a shortfall, this has been suggested by other sources but my engine number is not a one although it is the original engine the factory, it shows up as a MotoVespa

Servicing these engines not be simpler if you have the tools and the a decent plug routine, oil although I will digress in that I only changed my oil in its year of my ownership and the oil was dirty but going strong, don’t do to your own scooter as a regular means all them nasty of grit, aluminium and cylinder get taken away from the where they can do the most

Bajaj 125 Classic

A standard three port gasket set, a seal bearing set from a 125/150 frame are pretty much all you need for a full rebuild.


A decent 20 or 22 tooth will make a lot of difference in it does pay to lightly abrade the plates (not the cork to give enhanced grip but I suggest light, you really want to give the clutch that little bit more too much abrading will it nigh on impossible to let your slip even with the released.

Iridium plug — I run mine now for some months an Iridium and starting, pullaway, top end all from this plug and as last twice as long as a plug you are not losing anything.

pronged plug — school of thought would see performance from a 2/3/4 spark plug, either way a spark is better burning of

Head cavity polishing a decent metal or alloy compound is a sound thing to do, for polishing I use Peeks metal and it brought the crown of my piston and the cavity up like new in seconds, if you carbon to build up you start to a damper spark and it muffles the as time goes on and develops a deeper deposit.

Bajaj aren’t prone to web failure as as the Vespa especially around the housing web which is notorious for to go there, yet when rebuilding, do for hairline cracks there and near the kickstart mechanics.

Please visit the links for further information on rebuilding and engines.

Bajaj 125 Classic
Bajaj 125 Classic
Bajaj 125 Classic
Bajaj 125 Classic
Bajaj 125 Classic

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