1990 K75S ‘Spruce-Up’

22 Май 2015 | Author: | Комментарии к записи 1990 K75S ‘Spruce-Up’ отключены

1 1990 K75S ‘Spruce-Up’ on Wed Feb 06, 7:06 pm

Number of posts. 693

will be the second K75S to a spruce-up in six months, the third K75 done and the fourth K-Series in a similar manner in the past months.

As you may have worked I have nothing better to do my time and something approaching a for K-Series ‘Bricks’ (as well as an … approach so I’m

The background is this: My nephew, me, had an R1150GSA but one thing or another has him using it in the way he intended, ie long loaded to the gunwales. I persuaded him he should sell the GSA and buy something he can use on the odd occasion that he gets, inexpensive yet will provide pride in owning as well practical.

In short I suggested a and as he liked the K75S that owned for a short period year, why not one for himself knowing I’d enjoy fettling it for

Well in December he did a deal on a 16,000 mile bike was in a sad state cosmetically yet mechanically The price was on the low side, accurately the condition.

It was subsequently delivered to me just Christmas. My first task was to it out and make certain that worked, plus to evaluate needed sorting apart the obvious. My rides showed it was all fine except that the head adjustment was on the tight of acceptable.

Only once given the bike a wash did how poor it was beneath the mud and dirt. In I discovered that someone had a can of black paint and squirted it with … abandon the dirt on the transmission as well as else that got in the way such as the and intake tube (among things).

After some I think that I’ve out that this bike was in less than than circumstances. Probably a farm or at a very rural environment it had been allowed to stand in dirt, probably in a puddle of mud by the state of the main-stand:

There wasn’t one body that didn’t have to the paint. It was always anticipated some panels would re-painting but it was a bit of a blow to discover they all did. One good about this is that it a colour change an option.

If the thing needs re-spraying why not choose a colour that you We’ve chosen a BMW colour was used for the K75S but one that I think was used for UK bikes.

An or two saw the panels all removed, stripped of all the and badges and cleaned inside and

Another pile saw the parts for begin to grow:

It wasn’t all sailing however. The long that passes through the brace and holds the two part together had suffered badly.

I had this along with the that the fork leg mudguard screws would also be A couple of days soaking in oil worked for two screws but the rest solid.

The fork brace began to turn but once the threads reached the captive nut it was over. Anyone having this will know access to the screw and the nut is a problem. My attempt was to clamp the captive that was no longer captive captive in a plastic housing is like being in an open

It failed and I had to drill it out from the

Next, two of the side screws solid (both on the same and the side of the bike that to have suffered most the elements, possibly because it was up a wall with one side a bit protected). With the forks I set about driling out the screws:

had to do this before now and find leaving the head of the Allen in place, it acts as a guide for the Once beyond the depth of the I cut the head off.

It’s a bit of a leap of faith to drill by (not a bench drill) a steel screw that’s in soft aluminium. The only grace here is that if you end up the ali at least here it’s not and nor is the size of the hole crucial. As it is, I use an drill bit then pick out the of the screw.

Having done this of thing on cars and bikes for years, I’ve learnt my best modus operandi is to polish and refurbish parts as I them. That way there’s tendency to get all excited about it back together and being to rush things or cut corners. It make re-assembly quicker and a real pleasure to had from a component from the shelf all sorted when re-assembly

It’s the nearest I’ll get to building something new.

So, the were stripped, cleaned and the repainted:

The same goes for the parts such as the battery screws, the rear mudguard straps and the seat hinge

Removing the paint from the tube:

Cleaning the hoses and etc;


I have a pet that much of the problems with water in the fuel of these bikes is caused by the that builds up under the and breaks the seal:

It afflicts the seal on the flap

It’s just a matter of the white crusty muck then a dob of rubber treatment the seals remain flexible:

The finish always discolours polish. A wipe with or even brake cleaner is to return it to as new:

The tight was explained by an over-tightened adjuster. The were just starting to signs of brinelling. They’re too to ignore so it’s off with

The bare aluminium fork had suffered the usual oxidisation and the the usual steel into add moisture and you get cement issues. The were cleaned with a

Then the fork clamp a quick spin with an wheel:

And finally the whole gets a quick buff-up steel wool and Solvol polish:

The upper clamp the same treatment, before:

The box of cleaned or refurbished parts

More washing, scrubbing and done:

The radiator was flushed cleaned and the fan tested:

The front were stripped, cleaned, and re-assembled:

The screws that the calliper halves together solid with oxidisation, heat helped free

Once again, grotty get cleaned as part of the process:

popped out (my air line) and checked for (all okay):

All parts with Wurth brake

Before re-assembly using new and stainless steel fasteners a dob of Alumslip anti-seize):

Another of parts for cleaning and re-painting:

much more to come.


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