AltRider R1200GSW Skid Plate & Crash Bars

8 Мар 2015 | Author: | Комментарии к записи AltRider R1200GSW Skid Plate & Crash Bars отключены

AltRider Skid Plate and Bars

World Class for your GS

Big Adventure bikes are all the They are flying out of showrooms nobody’s business. The king of all is the BMW GS series; the numbers don’t

From its inception with the on through the years to today’s liquid-cooled marvel, the GS has been the one other motorcycle manufacturers to emulate, and hope to knock off the top of the with their own offering, for who dare. Some have close in one area or another, but has managed to match the overall balance, and Swiss Army utility of the BMW GS.

Tour — two-up — spend scratching the twisty backroads at or explore that old dirt that you always wondered The GS does it all, and in style.

few of us started off our riding careers on a GS. If the are to be believed, most of us started on an smaller displacement Japanese of one kind or another, and then through various other until we found the GS. Along the many (most?) of us have our faithful steeds.

Maybe it was a tipover in the driveway, or maybe you hit a spot while turning. No how it happened, we all discovered that a low speed tipover can can cause damage, and may make the bike leaving you stranded.

With the GS, we a bike that is more just a street bike. The GS is a that intrepid riders use to tempt fate on forest single track trails, and all of which raise the chances of the bike or hitting a rock or object with the engine. It is one to have a mishap at the local shop, but quite another if miles away from the road with no cell

Even so, those of us who are less can still dump the bike in the parking lot, and if the cylinder cover cracks, you’re engine oil, and may need a Clearly, some sort of is in order. BMW owners have a lot of when choosing accessories, so and care are needed to make the choice.

Having worked to a couple of GSes over the I have had the chance to examine and try the of a number of companies. Some try to out the low end of the price scale, and end up proving you get what you pay for, with fit and/or a tendency to rust scratched.

And let’s face it, of us are going to put a few scratches on our crash and skid plates, no matter how we try to be as we tiptoe around the Starbucks lot while on safari, so mild is out, at least for me. The other is how a product affects service on the bike. Do you really want to a extra time performing maintenance, or worse, pay a shop to do the work for you, simply of an accessory choice?

More on later.

Enter AltRider EU for non-US folks) and their Bar and Skid Plate System for the BMW R GS Water Cooled. This is a kit both their engine bars and their skid at about a fifty dollar depending on finish, over the parts individually. The crash are made of stainless steel, so not rust if you scratch them.

And if you do scratch them, a little with some sandpaper or a will fix them right up. Of is that the crash bars are of 1.25 diameter tubing, is the largest used in crash on the market, as far as I have been to tell. They do this it helps control flex than with smaller bars, and that allows to be located a little closer to they are protecting, which a cleaner overall look.

of all, you can remove the valve for valve adjustment without to remove the bars. Good no matter who works on your

The skid plate is made beefy 3/16 (4.76mm) and is designed to provide protection the entire underside of the engine, as as the catalytic converter . Of particular is the fact that there are no on the bottom of the skid plate, is an excellent feature, because on skid plates tend to end up and deformed, making removal more of a challenge. Eliminating is the kind of clever design I appreciate.

Another excellent is that you do not have to remove the plate to perform an oil and filter They have designed a cutout in the bottom to access the plug and allow the oil to drain, and the oil filter is not obstructed either. is a good little time-saver will pay off as long as you own the bike.

The kit in two big boxes, and the contents are packed the care that I have to expect from AltRider. One of the I noticed is that the packing they use to keep the items moving around in the boxes is brown paper. This is so better and more environmentally that those awful peanuts that some of the accessory makers use.

they use plastic bags and wrap where called but they don’t use plastic it isn’t necessary. I am not a nut about issues, but I appreciate it when the I do business with take the to do things in a good environmentally way. It means that at AltRider is thinking, and that is a thing.

Once you have the open, and things laid you will want to review the from front to back and yourself with the tasks There is nothing here the average Joe with hand can’t accomplish in an afternoon, but you not want to rush through because alignment of the components is to get right, or you may need to employ salty language later. sure you follow the crashbar instructions very carefully.

that on lower right of the front page of the printed there is a rev number. This is the number for the instructions, so you want the number available. Check the online here for crash and here for the skid plate, and if the ones have a higher rev print them out and use them of what came in the boxes.

This will ensure you have the best instructions I like that AltRider to improve the instructions on an ongoing

Included are small containers of locking agent and anti-seize As far as I know, nobody else small touches like Although I already had some of on hand, their inclusion that everyone who gets kit will be able to do a good job and not be to skip using them, if don’t have any.

I want to mention that the kit with a couple of torx as well, which can be of help if tool selection is limited.

The thing to do is to bolt the crash onto their mounting Use the provided 8mm hexhead bolts washers. Put a small amount of locking compound on the threads. Follow the AltRider instructions on this step, if you are also the skid plate. There is provided about centering the precisely that must be if you are to avoid undoing and redoing steps to make the skid holes align correctly on.

I eyeballed it when centering the on the mounts, and it worked out ok for me, but I strongly following their alignment Those bolt heads end up in a hard to access spot, so to go slowly and get it right. Torque to 25 nm.

The next step is to remove the engine mounting bolt sits just above and aft of the This will require an socket on the left and a T55 torx bit on the You may find, as I did, that the nut on bolt had apparently been by gorillas; I had to use a breaker bar with a er. torque amplifier on it to break it Others have not mentioned so maybe I was just lucky. you get it loose, it is removed from the side.

As was recommended in the instructions, I a 1/4 extension to push it out, but you can use on hand to push with, as a wooden dowel.

The next is removing the two 10mm lower mounting bolts. I started on the side. CAUTION: Only do on one side at a time. Do not remove the side, until after you the bolts from the first back in place.

Taking out sides at once can allow the to shift in the frame and then bolt holes won’t up anymore, so don’t do that!

The step is mounting the left crash bar. A new, engine mounting bolt is It has a nut already in place on one end. that nut just where it is. The that were on the OEM bolt are not

Hold the crash bar up in place and run the new through it. Once that has been pushed through, it hold up the bar and allow you to attend to the fasteners. Don’t worry putting the nut on the other end until you’ve finished doing the side crash bar.

attach the front upper using the provided socket bolts, nuts, and washers. My GS uses two bolts on each but there may have been frame changes for 2014 and so those models may only a single hole. If that is the just use one bolt on each You will need a 6mm allen for the and a 13mm for the nut.

Don’t worry about the hose; there is room to your allen wrench it, just push on the hose a and it will yield fairly Don’t tighten them all the yet. Note: The left bar goes outboard of the frame, but the side bar goes inboard of the

Now do the lower forward fastener. will require an 8x50mm a washer, and one of the two spacers. The washer on the bolt, then the bolt through the crash bar bracket, and the holds the bracket away the engine. Put some anti-seize on the You don’t need a lot of it; a little a long way.

Don’t it up all the way, yet.

Now put the original engine mounting bolts in. Clean up the bolts and threads as you can, then put a little locking compound on them, and run in. Don’t tighten them all the way Be sure to start these by hand, in order to be sure you don’t cross-thread them.

You are hard steel into aluminum, so be patient and get it right.

Now go to the forward upper and lower and torque them to 10 nm. After done those, torque the two engine bolts to 55 nm. The left is now complete, and it is time to do the right

First, remove the two lower mounting bolts like you did on the side.

Just as you did with the hang the right side bar the long upper bolt you slid through the frame, thread the 18mm nut onto it. tighten it all the way yet.

Then, the two socket head bolts, and nuts, attach the upper part of the bar to the frame. Remember, this one on the right side on the inside of the frame bracket. need a 6mm allen and a 13mm or socket.

Again, leave a little loose for now.

the remaining 8×50 bolt, and spacer and use them to attach the forward part of the mounting to the bike, just like you did on the side. Use a little anti-seize on the bolt.

Now you can put the original lower mounting bolts back in. up the bolts and threads as best you then put a little thread compound on them, and run them in. tighten them all the way yet. Be to start these bolts by in order to be sure that you cross-thread them.

You are threading steel into soft so be patient and get it right.

Go back to the upper and lower bolts and them to 10 nm. After you’ve those, torque the two 10mm bolts to 55 nm. Then, take a wrench and reach up behind the plates and make sure the bolts that you used to the bars to the brackets in the very step are tight — do on both sides.

Get two 18mm and use them to finish tightening long upper bolt runs through the frame to 85 nm. there is a nut on each end of that new so that’s why you need two sockets.

That’s it, you’re done!

The new skid plate for the liquid GS is a departure from past It has been designed to provide coverage and protection without ground clearance or cornering, and not interfere with maintenance The AltRider skid plate not only the underside of the engine, but extends far back to protect the converter, and has sides that up to protect the header pipes.

has devised a clever and sturdy way to the plate so that it does not any force to the engine. Instead, it to the beefy stainless brackets for the bars that bolt to the and to some replacement centerstand The bottom of the skid plate is and does not have any bolts or to be deformed when the skid takes a hit. This is a design, but (as those guys on the TV always say) wait, more!

The AltRider skid is designed with engine oil bolt access, so you do not have to the skid plate off to perform an oil And yes, I am unashamedly enthusiastic, they seem to have of everything.

To say that the skid for the new liquid cooled GS is a an improvement the stock BMW one is like saying filet mignon is better a McDonald’s burger. It sounds exaggeration, but just look at the between the two! It is almost to compare them.

Not only the AltRider plate extend farther than the BMW one, but it is of much thicker (3/16) so will stand up to far more than the tiny, thin BMW


As always, there is an excellent set of instructions provided. Note on lower right corner of the page of the printed instructions is a rev number. This is the revision for the instructions, so you want the highest available.

Check the versions here for the skid plate, and if the ones have a higher rev print them out and use them of what came in the box. will ensure that you the best instructions available.

The step is to remove the old skid and all of the brackets it attaches to. I recommend you put it all in a bag and tuck it away on a shelf to gather dust. You can always put it on if you sell the bike someday an to keep the AltRider piece.

The go into some detail making sure you followed the steps carefully for the crash if you are mounting both products. not kidding, follow those steps as carefully as you can, or the plate holes won’t up with the mount plate or centerstand pivots.

If you are only the skid plate, and do NOT have the crash bars, then you need to remove the two 10mm engine mounting bolts one side (start on the left) and attach the provided mount for the plate, which is similar to the one above for the crash bars, but a smaller. CAUTION: Only do on one side at a time. Do not remove the side, until after you the bolts from the first back in place.

Taking out both sides at can allow the engine to shift in the and then your bolt won’t line up anymore, so do that!

The next step is to involve replacing the centerstand with ones that provides. In order to take the off of those pivots, which make the job easier, the following are done with the bike on the stand, so if it isn’t already, put it on the

To access the pivot on the right (which is where they you start) you will need to the rear brake pedal a because it is in the way. You can either the pedal, or grab the rear caliper and wiggle it back and some and gradually compress it. you’ve done that, it be easier to push that brake pedal down.

the right side centerstand first. The pivots are held in by a sometimes called a snap You will want to use circlip (some auto parts loan them out for free) or I you could use a couple of strong but the pliers are not terribly expensive and are to have.

Remove the circlip, use an object about the diameter of the like a deep 12 or 13mm to drive out the pivot while alignment of the centerstand parts. In the below, you can see that I had a ratchet in the socket that I was using to out the old pivot. I tapped lightly on the to drive out the pivot.

Lubricate the new pivot, then drive it place and allow it to simultaneously out the socket that is now in the place of the OEM I used moly, but any good will do just fine. In the below, you can see that I used a brass hammer, and you can see the socket out the back. Be careful as you tap, the new pivot is aluminum, so will if you strike it too hard.

Luckily, is not a great deal of force The picture is of the left side, but do on the right, as recommended.

Once the has been driven all the way home, the original circlip and put it back in Repeat the process for the pivot on the side of the bike.

Now it is time to the skid plate itself. The step will be to loosely it to the forward mounts using the socket head bolts and — two on each side. If you someone to hold it up for you, but I found that I could use my to hold it up. Leave the bolts so you can wiggle it around a bit if necessary.

how the skid plate comes up and around the header pipes, them in the process. Not every plate does that.

Now time to bolt the back of the plate to the new pivots you installed Do this with the bike on the Use a hexhead bolt and washer on the and a pan head (countersunk style) on the Use thread locking agent on bolts.

This step is the part of the installation because you to reach in and thread the bolts in behind. Take your and be patient, so that you don’t them. You can put a 5mm allen wrench the hole on the outside of the pivots and use for leverage and even turning as you AltRider says to torque the and not the pivots.

I think that is because the have some pressure on from the centerstand, so will not you an accurate feel as you tighten. If don’t line up, try jiggling the plate around some, but you may to go back and re-align things to the first steps again.

At point, you must go back and all of the fasteners.

First tighten the 8mm bolts to 13 nm, and then tighten the 10 mm bolts to 55 nm, then go back to the 4 8mm plate mounting bolts and them to 13 nm.

Congratulations, you’re

The AltRider crash bars and plate are the real deal. are heavy-duty pieces, available in silver or black, designed and to take real punishment and it off. They offer a combination of full coverage without impeding routine

These AltRider products are and made in the USA, and display a of fit, finish, and build that exceeds that of any brand I have seen, and that includes those German names we all know. I did a question as I went about installation and am happy to report I received a reply to my email a day or so that actually answered my so it seems that customer is good, as well.

All in all, I am happy to have these on my bike, and look forward to years of good service them. With products as as these, with all the little like including thread agent, anti-seize, torx clear detailed instructions crisp photos and required lists, I expect that will grow to become a player in the Adventure Riding and I say it is about time that was a David to challenge the various of the accessory market that all grown so used to.

A Happy GSW its new AltRider Crash Bars and Plate!

Author’s Note: I my living as a technical writer, mind-numbingly dry and boring software for the financial services industry are entirely devoid of humor or If more people read my insomnia would not exist! I little reviews like one purely for fun, as a kind of for the writing I must do on a daily

I have no financial interest in any of the whose products I write nor am I on their payrolls. The information is my personal opinion, and mine I hope you enjoyed it and found it

Farkle on, my friends!



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