Snooker’s BMW G650 XCountry Links – Mods, Parts, Accessories, Reviews

21 Jan 2015 | Author: | Comments Off on Snooker’s BMW G650 XCountry Links – Mods, Parts, Accessories, Reviews
BMW G650 XChallenge

*** 07 BMW G650Xcountry: Parts, Accessories and Mods – Specifics! ***

Install advice for Leo Vince:

Don’t worry about branding the coolant hose. When you install the Leo Vince pipe, loosen the header as well and position it correctly.

AdvRider Max Kool gives this LeoVince install advice:

Those LeoVince bolts are stainless, bolted into the stainless end cap. As we know this combination can very easily lead to the thread eating itself (don’t know how to express it better in English). You should always use some form form of anti-seize on these threads. Copaslip, alu-grease. Even plain bearing grease. (Nickel based is best for stainless.

Loctite 77124 $22, or ACE# 991000014 $6 2oz).

Exhaust extras: Lava Wrap exhaust pipe heat wrap dbDawg sound restricter insert dbDawg sound restricter insert

Air Filter:

AdvRider MaxKool on snorkel and airbox

AdvRider on UNI air prefilter to go with the UNI foam air filter.

Tires *** :

Tires: Facts:

It is the 19 front that is hard to find in a DOT approved type. Sizes: 100/90-19 and 130/80-17.

The rear is plenty roomy to fit a slightly different size (like a Dunlop D606).

Stock is 90/10 street/dirt Metzeler Tourance.

For more off-road: For 40/60, Dunlop D606 wears best. Then 50/50 Continental TKC80.

Tires: Current thinking is to use:

First choice: Dunlop D606 on rear, and Conti TKC80 on front.

Mainly because Geoffrey says the TKC80 is a great matched pair front and read, well behaved on the street, not noisy really until you get over 50-60 mph, and very good off road. They are so good on road that he thinks they must be a radial and not a bias ply, but can’t find info to back this up.

The problem is the rear TKC80 has shallow tread depth and doesn’t have enough traction off road. Plus it wears more quickly because of the short knobs. You can expect 8k mi on front and 4k on rear.

For a better rear off road with good bite, he likes the D606, it also has a hard compound and is well behaved on road too, not squirrely and wears well. Wears well, maybe 5k. Noisy over 50-55mph.

This combo sheds mud much better than the Mefo / Heidenau choice, if that matters. On the other hand, Drone’s concern is braking at high speed (look at the surface area of the front tire that is contacting the road).

Air pressure:

Geoffrey likes to leave it at one pressure, no less than 25 psi for on road and just leave it there for off road. It may make sense to go lower for some off-road, especially sand, but remember there is no rim-lock on the rear wheel. Drone always lowers the pressure off-road and carries an air pump to inflate back up to 30-35 on highway or more if you have a heavy load (bags).

Colebatch says 18-21 in this post .

At first I thought you cannot get rimlocks for our 3 wide rear 17 rim according to Woody’s who also recommends 25+, in my post. but now they seem to say they are available, as I have reposted HERE .

Second choice is Heidenau K60 (seems to be getting more popular than Mefo Explorer)

Tires: For more off-road biased than 50/50, these sets might be the only matched Front and Rear DOT tires in our sizes – the 19 Front is hard to find:

Tires: These are some more Rear DOT tires in our sizes:

Tires – some other non DOT tires:

Bridgestone Trailwings – cheap and mediocre:

Bridgestone TrailWing TW18

Bridgestone TrailWing TW42 Tracula. Front tire option – Motoz Tracula.

Also: For maybe 70/30 can try IRC GP-1. or GP-110 but not great. cheap, but no 19.

Balancing Wheels: makes Dyna Beads that everybody seems to rave about. They dynamically balance as your tire wears over time. Of course you can’t use Slime with them, but you can leave them in the tube when you mount a new tire.

AdvRider jiminwc sells reusable wheel weights for spoke nipples (not spoke). Also his store on eBay. makes a static wheel balancer that people seem to love. And here are his Wheel Balancing Instructions. sells DynaBeads to dynamically balance your tire from the inside.

Tubes, Pumps and Tire Repair: I found you can fit a spare tube under the faux gas tank cover between it and the airbox. I put it into white Tyvek bag from the US Postal Service, which is very tough. In this way I always have a 19 front spare tube which could also work for the rear in a pinch.

Advrider snooker (me!) post about tubes available, and choice to use Bridgestone Ultra Heavy Duty tubes. They make a 19 for front and no 17 so I use an 18. Another list of tubes here.

Advrider snooker (me!) post about tire pressures and no rimlocks available.

Advrider snooker (me!) later post that rimlocks ARE available. Google for Ariete rim lock 10915 and they are for 2.50-3.00 rims. Also Scheffelmeir in Germany sells the Ariete rimlock. carries TUbliss inner bladder tubeless system inner tubeless system – vendor site, only 18, 19, or 21 Personally I like to travel light. I don’t expect many flats and can’t justify a big bulky pump, especially on short trips.

Moose Racing metal CO2 inflator kit. VERY small tough metal head used threaded cartridges, all key features. $25.

Topeak Mini Morph bicycle pump. $35. I have this pump always mounted to my subframe for a backup, and the key is it has a short hose which I have found is critical to keep from cracking the fragile pumps of this sort, over repeated uses. It would not last to do an entire tire with probably, use sparingly.

Cable Ties: Another option if you have a flat is to tightly attach the tire to the wheel using cable ties (zip ties) around the tire and in between the wheel spokes. Since we don’t have rimlocks, especially the rear wheel is a problem as it would just spin on the tire. I have never done this but read about it and it makes sense, at the very least maybe you could ride very slowly and get to a better place to change the tire.

I think any tire with at least some 50/50 knobbies on it would probably work. How long would it need to be? I think for my tires it needs to be 16 on the biggest rear I have. I used to carry some regular duty 12 cable ties and figured I could put 2 together, then Geoffster pointed out some beefy ones and I found this perfect 18 length below:

Lowe’s sells a beefy 18 Gardner Bender 45-518 cable tie. a crazy strong 18 cable tie rated at 175 pounds. Even comes in black! Though it says 18, the length to where it actually starts to grab is about 16.5 and it looks perfect for our tires, front or rear.

I mean look how big it is next to a standard duty one, the cable is .35 wide and head is .50 wide.

Front Fender:

Advrider High fender option

@ Extenda fender – front fender extender $45

Horn: Horn comparison

@ has 2 horns, 76500 and slimline 76501. I heard the 76500 in a store, it is loud! I have installed the smaller 76501 in the stock location, and I measured its amps that it draws at 2.6 A (vs.

0.8 A for stock horn). Installing Fiamm Freeway Blaster horn and Relay Can gauge the size of the Fiamm here. Fiamm Freeway blaster horn: High tone 72102 and Low tone 72112 Draw 5A each, so can install 1 without a relay probably. Update: for awhile I installed the 72112 on the front frame tube, I measured its amps it draws at 4.0 A (vs. 0.8 A for stock horn).

My custom bracket broke so I replace horn with smaller PIAA 76501 (above).

Stocked at Advance Auto Parts, $20 ea. Fiamm Freeway Blaster horn review. Fiamm Freeway blaster horn: High tone $16 and Low tone $16 Fiamm Freeway blaster horn: High tone $15 and Low tone $16 Free ship.

Installation directions for Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns with pics of horn.

AdvRider thread on Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns. Hella SuperTone Horn kit HL85115 2-tone. $60 Weird sound kinda. Hella SuperTone Horn Kit $58 Stebel Magnum horn review (pair). No relay needed for a single horn, 6A ea. Pick lower tone. Stebel Magnum single horn smaller. UK site. TM80 Magnum. L17.

AdvRider scro0853 used single Stebel Magnum, no relay needed for single horn

AdvRider drdata explains the CanBus (the G650X does NOT use it!). and current draw from horns to not cause an error, else need to add resistor in PARALLEL! Stebel Nautilus Compact air horn $40 Too big, hard to mount, finicky, and 18amps! Fiamm Dual HK9 horns $38 not sure but look small

Visibility / Safety with Lights:

Stock headlight uses H4 socket type. Lifetime measured in a few hundred hours – carry a spare! But better brand is Narva, Osram, Philips, or Hella from Germany (PIAA is suspect). Wattage is fixed (60/55W) but some have higher output (+30, +50, or even more +80) at reduced life. I would stay away from higher wattage due to heat in wiring, lens, etc, not to mention lack of power from stator.

Better is to add 2 LED aux lights for good output at low power (amps), an effective solution both for visibility at night and conspicuity in daytime.

Read more about bulb life vs. output in the chart from Daniel Stern.

— Good sources for quality bulbs: sells H4 bulbs For 60/55W they recommend for +50 the Narva Rangepower+50 for $19; or for +30 the Narva Rangepower High Output Plus 30 for $13. – ALL H4 bulbs, not just for bikes. Remember more output (+30, +50, +80. ) means less life and our lights are on all the time!

First, mounting options:

Mounting options for light cans: A) On handguard inner bolts, or B) *Between* the fork tubes right under the headlight by making a bracket to mount at a mounting bolt hole, or ideally C) fork tube clamps to mount to the outside of each fork tube.

For fork tube mounting: Here is the diameter of the XCo fork tube just under the lower triple clamp, below the headlight: Right below the triple it is untapered and is 57mm but for clearance to tank when turning you would have to mount *between* the fork legs. It then immediately tapers down to 53mm down to where you could remove (move up) the reflectors and mount on the outside of the fork legs.

VisionX sold separately or in kits from Twisted Throttle:

10 watt – 450 lumens, spot beam. 85 amps. (was $50) OR:

24 watt – 1450 lumens, flood beam, 1.8 amps. And 24W had single mode (was $60) or 3-way mode option ($80) of 3-way dimmer built in each unit.

Newer efficient ones (sanjoh says they are from Cree ) starting 3/11 are: (prices and specs for each as of 12/11):

@ Model 30 – 1500 lumens, spot beam. 85 amps, ($60). OR:

Model 44 – 2000 lumens, flood beam, 1.8 amps. ($80). OR:

Model 50 – 3600 lumens, wide beam, 2.4 amps. ($100).

For heavy duty bracket add $10. Can also get XPel acrylic lens protector, also a LED panel indicator.

Now also sells optional $45 wireless remote control FOB you can mount, waterproof. Off/on, dim up, dim down infinitely variable. With high beam lead control that will bypass dimmer (attach to high beam wire) and runs full power during high beam. (Wiring diagram at sales site and also here on Adv )

AdvRider patobravo completely tore down an older 24W flood. and another rider tore down the older 10W spot. Main issue was it needed a heat conductive adhesive to get the heat from the metal PC board to the frame. Heat is the enemy of these LED lights.

Edit–I discovered the hard way that the OEM Powerlet socket is on the same fuse as the starter and other engine management shit. Blow this fuse and your bike is dead. Easy enough to replace the blown fuse but decided to change this setup anyway. I cut the power line to the socket and spliced it into the power line serving the HID lights.

This circuit has a 25 amp fuse and there’s not much chance I’ll be using the lights at the same time as some kinda power hungry accessory.

In case of dead battery, use the provided Powerlet socket, and carry a set of cables with Powerlet male plug, then connect but don’t crank, just wait; as cranking may blow fuse or worse. Can also charge battery this way over winter (per manual).

@ Vendor site for Posi- connector series. Order here cheaply. Posi-Tap electrical connector, threaded tight way to tap a power line is a timed switch for lights that will use existing switches. has switches and perch mounts has waterproof switch that comes from is a $150 device that tricks ECU to inject more fuel to improve idling and acceleration. Also has great ECU theory of operation knowledge.

AdvRider thread on Booster Plug experiences.

One drawback is the Booster Plug tends to make it idle faster (stronger idle), which is an issue for the Rekluse clutch perhaps?

– Note: Original OEM battery was Exide but it was crappy and a campaign from BMW replaced it with the Yuasa YTZ10S. My Yuasa died in less than 2 years. Another key thing I’ve been told is that the electronic Fuel Injection system gets very flaky under around 12v, so that is key to a happy G650X (need more info on this!).

– Sizing: My measurements of the battery box shows it to be about 101 mm (4.0) tall in the front but the rear of the case is shorter by maybe 3mm (1/8) or so. This becomes a critical number for several of these batteries to be able to fit. Plus if the posts are on top it might make it even tighter.

The width is about 3.5 at bottom and more a bit higher up, and the depth is 5.5 but it can extend deeper than that as it sticks out the side.

– Cranking Amps: Personally I as far as specs go, I am not as much interested in the AH rating of the battery as I am interesting in the Cranking Amps. Now there are several specs here, hot vs. cold temperatures, what minimum voltage it can’t drop below, and the time duration. However the standard in the historic lead acid battery world seems to be CCA (Cold Cranking Amps).

This standard is how many amps at 0 degrees F can be delivered without the voltage dropping below 7.2v (or 1.2v per cell).

– FAQ: In some of the data below, you might want to learn more about these different specs, so read the Odyssey manufacturer FAQ and also the Odyssey seller (Westcoast) FAQ. Here is where it gets fuzzy. First of all, the LiFePO4 vendors may not be standardized in their CCA spec, for instance Shorai says their CCA spec is for 9v (at unspecified temperature?).

I don’t see a description of CCA from Ballistic. Since 7.2v is really not enough to start a motor, Odyssey stresses other specs like 5 second pulse amps which is a hot cranking spec.

– AdvRider ‘_cy_’ has a long thread about batteries and has done a lot of testing. He likes AGM best but for LiFePO4 he likes Antigravity and (so far) EarthX. Another good read is by JoelWisman HERE .

Battery Technology Choices:

AGM type of lead battery (Absorbed Glass Matt):

– These lead batteries have acid for electrolyte, but the acid is absorbed in the mat and there is no excess so they are sealed and can’t spill (sometimes also called dry).

Yuasa YTZ10S (AGM type w/ 190 CCA). At Powersport-superstore for $112.

@ Odyssey PC310. 7 AH, 100 CCA. Seems a bit wimpy CCA in comparison, but is well respected. has it for $155.

Lithium Ion family, specifically the LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate):


– The LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate) is a specific chemistry that is part of a broader Lithium Ion family, and is known for high starting current but less low current long term AH ratings perhaps (that depends). Here is a GREAT primer about the various Lithium Ion chemistries. Look at the snapshots also – fig 6 shows LiFePO4 and how it excels in the desired qualities of Safety and Specific Power (for starting) and low cost.

Unlike other lithium ion chemistry (like in most laptop batteries), the LiFePO4 is very stable and the battery itself will not catch on fire, yet could get very hot in an extreme failure like an internal short.

– They are about 1/5th the weight, much smaller, with more CCA than lead batts because they have lower internal resistance (though it is difficult to compare CCA specs). They are similar to the Odyssey in price.

– Unlike lead batteries (including AGM), the more times you need to crank your motor, the more amps they flow without dropping voltage. They actually crank more amps once they warm up to a starting flow and can sustain multiple rounds of cranking. Very different from lead batteries and better in that regard.

– They are newer (2010-ish for mass production at decent prices), so not as proven although some use the A123 branded 3.3v cell that is proven, and simply package it into a 4 or 8 cell package, for example.

– One of the drawbacks is that at colder temperatures, say 32degrees F or below, they must be triggered by turning on a headlight or similar, to get current flowing. Some people have reported this as a few seconds but others as a 10 minute drill! Unclear.

The cold does not hurt them, although extreme heat does degrade them, it’s just that the chemistry performs this way when cold.

– Another advantage is longevity (5-10 years with typical use) and shelf life, they drain at about 1/10th the rate as lead batteries (assuming no parasitic connections to drain them, like a digital clock or whatever). This means for many bikes you never need to charge them over a few months of non-use (and it is not good for them to leave them on a trickle charger). If they do get drained, it is important not to let them go below 9v without recharging them.

Also you should not use a charger with a desulfate mode (the Battery Tender is safe).

– Heat is its enemy so try not to mount it in a hot spot (no choice on the G650X if you use the battery box).

Shorai LiFePO4 batteries:

The Shorai FAQ says they use a proprietary prismatic cell (and apparently not A123 brand cylindrical cells). LFX18A1-BS12 is 270 CCA in bigger case 1, but I believe it is just barely too tall for our battery box. Instead the LFX14A2-BS12 is 210 CCA in smaller case 2. Again their CCA spec is 9v (not the standard 7.2v), and at an unspecified temperature.

They rate their AH in a Pb eq or lead equivalent, to try to compare to the older lead based chemistry performance (confusing).

Being newer, some Shorai had internal shorts in early 2011 and was sorted out in newer production runs (in Japan apparently) around April-May 2011, after the tsunami effects were mitigated. Hopefully this is fixed. They also added overvoltage protection internally, and beefed up the terminal posts that were too weak in earlier units. Mfgr site has the LFX14A2-BS12 which would definitely fit (even sideways) as it is case size 2, and case size 1 is too tall by maybe 5mm. Also see the dimensions of the case sizes. has Shorai cheapest I found. LFX14A2-BS12 $144. But shipping is $14, so similar price as

Advrider Xchallenge thread on Shorai LFX models. Note the pic from FinnDuro is the LFX14A2 series in the smaller case size 2. He has had very slow cold starting problems even at 40 degrees F (like 10-15 minutes), so I hope he has sorted this out by now.

Advrider thread on Shorai lithium battery. Here is another one. forum has very informative info on Shorai used in a sportbike project. It is a case of an early 2011 lot that probably had an internal short that also fried the voltage regulator. In the end, Shorai service was top notch and I’d say most were confident with using a Shorai as far as safety and performance goes.

Also comments from shoraitech from Shorai describing new overvoltage protection circuitry being added, along with beefier terminal upgrades (that was a weakness).

Advrider thread from Shorai Tech on how to warm up a cold Shorai first

Testsycl LiFePO4 batteries: (DISCONTINUED)

The Sycl battery FAQ gives a great summary of their cells and the LiFePO4 technology tradeoffs overall. They are all based on A123 brand 26650 cells. They sell a 240 CCA for 8 cell (they call it 4.6AH), 120 CCA for 4 cell (the 2.3AH).

1 year warranty. One unique and cool thing about these is the ultra small sizes and the high current quick disconnect connector kit they sell (based on Anderson PowerPole connectors ). Great for racers or if you just want to take the battery in when it is cold overnight.

The smaller 4 cell can be used as an emergency backup you could carry in your pack if desired, if your main 8 cell battery was accidentally drained, you could unplug it (or it would be too big a drain) and plug in the little 4 cell and it will start the G650X (may also have to unplug the headlight and any other lights). This has been done on our bike by others and by myself!

(Note: Jim at as of November 2011 says these shrink wrap batteries (the tiniest packaging of all) with the Sycl brand will be discontinued when all are sold, now that he carries Ballistic. Update: now he carries EarthX.) has their own branded 8-cell 4.6 AH. 240 CCA Lithium battery for $165.

Advrider tbarstow shows install pics of Sycl 8-cell and loves it. and Geoffster says he would buy. has this tiny tiny 4 cell rated at 120 CCA for only $90. It could be used as a spare/backup and remember they keep their charge compared to lead batts. I like the idea because I run a Rekluse semi-auto clutch and I cannot bump start my bike.

Advrider herrhelmet (Jim) vendor thread to sell the Sycl batteries

Ballistic LiFePO4 batteries:

The Ballistic FAQ says they use a custom designed LiFePO4 cell (though some think they are the proven A123 brand 26550 cells) in a very tough case. All their battery packs are 103mm tall with terminals on the top, so according to my measurements it is probably too tall. If not then the best match is the 8 cell, it should fit, the spec says Pulse Cranking Amps = 275 CCA not sure what that means. $160 list price.

3 year warranty!

UPDATE: AdvRider DiscoDino reports he was able to fit a 12 cell in his XChallenge, but he did have to break off the plastic pieces that partition the + and – so we could get the cables right. A 12 cell is really beefy! (Spec says Pulse Cranking Amps: 410 CCA)

Advrider Butters shows his install of the EarthX ETX18B for $209. This is a much beefier model than ETX12B which is the recommended fit. But they are the same case size. The 12 means 12Ah and the 18 means 18Ah.

The 18 spec says 340 PCA and 230 CCA (see below). These are the ones now sold by (aka herrhelmet or as of 1/2013.

Battery Cranking Amps comparison:

-This is my attempt to compare apples and oranges to the most important spec – how many amps can it crank to start the motor. Here I attempt to compare a CCA spec for the Odyssey AGM Lead battery to the Shorai LiFePO4 as they list CCA specs but they are not the same parameters. My idea below is to try to compare hot cranking amps instead, and at 9v since that is the only spec Shorai quotes, as follows:

-First, Odyssey publishes hot cranking amps for the PC310, which is 310 Amps for 5 seconds not dropping below 7.2v min, at 80 degrees F.

-Shorai publishes CCA for the LFX14 which is 210 Amps for 5 seconds and 9v min, and let’s assume this is at 80 degrees F (they don’t say).

-Now I will attempt to convert the PC310 number to estimate its value at 9volts: (310 A * 7.2 v) / 9 v = 248 A. I’m proposing the PC310 has 248 A compared to the LFX14 having 210 A, for a pulse amps comparison, for what that’s worth.

-In fact the LiFePO4 cells would put out more amps as time goes by and it warms up more. Also you have to consider that our BMW has issues below 12v, and in actuality it will not draw near this much current and the voltage may not drop that low, and the LiFePO4 can handle more repeat cranking better without dropping its voltage because it has lower internal resistance, and in fact the lead AGM battery increases its internal resistance on repeat cranking attempts.

-UPDATE: Now EarthX says CCA tests follow the industry standard at 0 degrees F for 30 seconds (which is not applicable except for snowmobiles), while PCA (Pulse) tests have no standard but their test is at 70 degrees F for

Care and maintenance of a LiFePO4 batteries:

– Even if left on the shelf for 6 months your new battery system will be within 95% of full capacity. You do not need to charge your new battery system prior to installation.

– Should you manage to discharge your battery somehow, you have a few choices to get it recharged.

– Damage can occur if the battery is discharged to under 4 volts or over 14.8 volts. (check your bikes charging system regularly). (Note: they also say don’t let it stay under 9v without recharging it or it can be damaged!).

– Automotive type battery charger providing 5 amps for 15 minutes (but do not use desulphate mode!)

Skid plate:

AdvRider Drone: BMW engine crash bars. Used Xchallenge bash plate

With Supracor gel, and reshape the seat to remove the bucket, may cost under $100. Call him. Supracor does get very hot in sun however, so does vinyl itself of course. does great job of custom seats. in Ohio, custom seat rebuild, MuddyRabbit uses him custom seat services. Recommended by Beemers and More shop.

AirHawk seat cushion. $$ Dual Sport Seats

Adv AZ-Twin post on

Corbin seat for X. Very hard, per Geoffster. notes on Corbin:

First impression: very hard (harder than stock) but at the same time seems more confortable that the stock due to the nicely defined ridge that separates the passenger vs rider sections. The Corbin styling is not as refined as the stock (mine is a 2009 Euro style saddle, the first to enter Canada in May 2008) but I can live with. Also the Corbin only attaches in two points (lock and middle by using a bar) and not 3 as the stock but that does not seem to affect riding in any way.

I just hope that the cell foam thing will settle and become more confortable in time. Unfortunately I will have to wait for spring for trying a long ride to tell the difference.

AdvRider Kicksave seat by Erwin’s Custom Interiors (Long Beach, CA), also see #776 and 795 also LV exhaust

Drone also did this and says:

Torque Wrenches: CDI is a branch of SnapOn that makes cheaper torque wrenches: all 3/8 in ft-lbs: 752MFRMH is 5-75, 1002MFRMH is 10-100 (or 1002MFRPH with plastic handle), or 802MFRFMHSS is 10-80 with flex head.

Note: 8/2011: I had forks revalved and resprung by TrailTech and Javier has written down 100mm or 625cc of oil (spec is 690 cc). But this is his custom complete setup and should not be taken out of context.

OK is The Shield, with Endura. Decent is Rain Barrier, with Dura/Vent 280. Best Budge cover is The Max, with PGI Endura Plus, 3 layer water resistant, breathable.

Dual Sport Helmet: I was surprised to find this new helmet type that has both a shield and an aerodynamic visor, and normally fits goggles also. Very nice.

It is like a street helmet in that it has a flip shield that seals very well.

It is like a dirt helmet in that it has a visor, but it is aerodynamic enough to ride at high speed and not kill your neck. If you look to the side the wind will catch the visor though, but to be expected. It is also unique in that most of them are contoured to fit goggle straps so you can wear goggles when you are in the dirt, either with the shield flipped up, or even with the shield down, for most goggles.

There are 2 good choices, the Arai XD3 or the Shoei Hornet DS, however there is a cheap one from AFX and one from Icon as well.

I know the Icon is not made for goggle straps, but has a smoother curved shield. I don’t know much about the AFX.

Arai XD3 dual sport helmet $512

@Shoei Hornet DS dual sport helmet $437

Icon Variant dual sport helmet $350

AFX FX-37 DS dual sport helmet $126

Comparing Shoei and Arai on demo rides up to 70 mph, overall I liked the Arai best for features, it has a wider and longer visor, movable chin flap to block cold wind, better shield position barely open. However it did make some whistling in the high speed and crosswinds I tried it on, just as in the reviews I read. And there is barely any room in front of the chin for a Camelback tube.

The Shoei had no wind noise at all, even on a crazy high crosswind day. The first open position on the shield is way open, too far and too much wind gets in.

The Shoei large was almost too big but the medium was way too small. The Arai large was almost too tight but ok. I bought the Shoei, as I can’t stand whistling noises! After buying and using the Shoei Hornet I like that it has a lot of room in front of the chin, and the visor will stay barely cracked open also so overall maybe it is better than the Arai.

It also comes with a removable chin shield for cold weather that goes way below the chin.

Fog City tinted Pro Shield $20

Fog City makes Speed Tint strip $11

@Spy Klutch goggles may fit Shoei best $50

Rider gear and accessories: The 2011 Chinook pant from Klim has a webbed belt now (but the Dakar does not). vendor sells Rev’It pants, jackets, etc. The new Badlands Pro jacket shipped in 10/2011. Got my eye on it! Damn pricey. sells Knox Cross Armored Shorts $119. Armor seems less bulky than Klim Tactical shorts $90 (and maybe better), and no chamois crotch (good/bad). Also at Or buy the hip pads separately $30.

Armor: Overview is that CE Level 1 is commonly met for all armor except the back/spine which is CE Level 2, a more stringent spec (less energy is transmitted). However some product pass it by 10% and some pass it by 50% so there is a big difference in the gap. That’s where it is nice to see test data if published.

M5 @ 5Nm (44 in lbs); M6 @ 10Nm (88 in lbs); M8 @ 25Nm (221 in lbs-or 18 ft lbs)

Torque converter calculator or: a simpler one

BMW G650 XChallenge

AdvRider thread for all XChallenge torque settings. Here are some commonly used ones:

Oil change: The M24 oil drain plug torque is 40Nm (30 ft lbs). The M8 oil tank drain spigot torque is 25Nm (221 in lbs-or 18 ft lbs). Oil filter cover M6 bolts are 10Nm (88 in lbs).

Front sprocket M10 bolt torque to 40Nm (30 ft lbs), 17mm socket; and to use loctite 243 (blue, 243 for oily areas). (listed as: Drive pinion to gearbox output shaft m10). Tip: Put wooden dowel (or axe handle) between spokes (by rim) and swingarm.

Rear sprocket to rear sprocket carrier M8 bolts with nuts: 25Nm (221 in lbs-or 18 ft lbs), again use thread lock.

Wheel install: Front/rear axle nut torque is 80Nm (59 ft lbs). The 4 front fork M6 pinch bolts 10Nm (88 in lbs), wrench 8mm. For rear: The M8 chain tensioner lock nuts 25Nm (18 ft lbs), wrenches used are 10 13mm open end.

ABS sensor bolt uses 8mm wrench.

Directions for front wheel install:

Note: before wheel was removed: On left side, remove ABS sensor bolt and pull sensor back out of way. Now make sure it is out of the way before removing or inserting wheel into disc caliper.

Insert axle and snug axle nut as much as possible, the directions say to torque it now but it is too hard to hold the axle using the right side holes for that much torque.

First snug the right side pinch bolts, then torque axle nut, then loosen right side pinch bolts.

Remove bike from bike lift and push up and down to compress forks (so right fork tube aligns parallel to left fork tube).

Torque left side pinch bolts. Torque right side pinch bolts.

Directions for rear wheel install:

Note: before wheel was removed: On left side, loosen (but don’t remove) bolt for speedo/ABS sensor and pull sensor back out of way. Now make sure it is out of the way before removing or inserting wheel into disc caliper.

Note: before wheel was removed: It is easier to leave the chain adjuster bolts alone and instead just remove the aluminum blocks (that are around the axle) on each side, which gives more slack for removing chain off of sprocket.

Later when installing, insert axle and the aluminum blocks on each side, then finger tighten axle nut.

Adjust chain tension (with chain at tightest position): First the hard way, per the manual: Align the front sprocket, swingarm pivot, and rear axle in a STRAIGHT line which results in the chain is stretched to max (can use ratchet strap from axles across behind seat, to compress shock). Then, since chain stretches unevenly, spin wheel and find point with LEAST chain deflection at midway point. Adjust chain deflection to 25mm. (See AdvRider thread ).

OR INSTEAD, the easy way: With bike on a lift and wheel off of the ground with shock fully extended, and with the wheel rotated until the chain is in the tightest spot: Set the chain slack to 1.7. (I measured and this achieves the same slack as the above setting, but is easier to do).

Make sure chain tensioner lock nut on each side is even and torque both nuts.

Torque axle nut. Remove bike from lift.

AdvRider thread for XC clutch basket torque

AdvRider Drone about torque values

Engine mounts – torque settings for example needed to install SW-Motech radiator high guard, one on each side, for each one:

Cylinder head to frame: 74Nm (55 ft lbs). (this is up high under faux tank – where your knees would hit when in a forward seated position).

Bottom Truss: 50Nm (37 ft lbs), (these are at bottom of each side of front truss (like downtubes in front).

NOTE! This is for standard nuts and bolt heads without flanges or shoulders, so many BMW bolts don’t match.

Find the bolt size by measuring the shaft diameter, to know proper torque spec above!

= Summary of standard wrench sizes: M5 uses 8mm wrench; M6-10mm; M8-13mm; M10-17mm; M12-19mm; M18-27mm.

Oil – checking and changing, and type of oil:

AdvRider matloik. How to check the oil, from service manual. Oil Change directions for G650X. Nice pics. Use torques listed above. (AdvRider RoyB, Roy Bertalotto)

Basic procedure is:

Remove the oil tank cap. Remove engine oil drain plug and drain engine. (the TouraTech low profile plug uses a huge 10mm hex allen wrench).

Add 5/16 ID hose onto valve fitting on bottom of oil tank (behind exhaust pipe). then open the valve with 12mm open end wrench and drain into pan. It is VERY SLOW.

Oil filter (right side): First remove rear brake fluid reservoir and tie up out of the way. Use aluminum foil under cover then cram small rag in between to catch the excess and divert it into catch pan. Remove 3 bolts on cover, clean area and replace oil filter (HiFlo HF151 is good).

O-ring on cover usually is good to re-use. Re-install cover.

Close tank drain, install engine drain plug.

Oil – Standard is 15w40. Manual says not to use synthetic until 6,000 miles. One good oil is Shell Rotella Triple Protection Heavy Duty 15w40, simply because it is now labeled JASO MA a Japanese motorcycle rating indicating it is safe for a motorcycle wet clutch.

Garmin 60CSx Info:

Snooker’s GPS Info page – general and 60CSx specific has the Garmin 60CSx for $200 (in Nov. 2010). They are about the best for any GPS or RAM mount. Dual Sport forum about GPS questions for the LAB2V ride. I picked the classic Garmin 60Csx because these guys talked about the 20 and the 76. brand new website with Dual Sport enthusiast resources including: cool GPS tracks page for finding and downloading. (try Search Map Text and enter countdown to see his uploaded tracks – from AMA D37 guy). to get GPS maps. is connected in to DualSportMoto in some manner.

AMA D37 thread on tracks and number of track points per mile.

Camping Gear: Vendor for LuxuryLite cot. Nice!

AdvRider Review of cool hitech LuxuryLite sleeping cot. $220 Hi Tech Cot Vendor site for Exped DownMat Pump 7 air mattress Exped SynMat Pump 7 Exped SynMat Pump 7 Nemo Morpho tent – small

Classified Searches: used bike searches – site mash

XCountry Summary Specs:

In 2007-2009 was the G650X (XCountry), like Super motard. Black. Low front fender, no windshield, small tank.

Only 2.5gal tank. 19 front, but 9.4 travel front / 8.3 rear! Only 280W alternator. Weighs 326/352 lbs. Seat 33.1 – 34.3 in, adj via suspension. No Adj levers. No fuel gauge or tach.

Predicting 50-65 mpg so only 120 mile range (one site got 67 mpg at 60mph)! (but better than the XR650L which is 2.8 gal but only 90-100 mile range! and the KLR650 is about 36mpg) Needs premium gas!

In 2009 they added adjustable levers, lowered forks, shorter shock and cut down seat thickness to lower the seat height; integrated rear footpegs not bolt-on.

BMW New G650Xcountry Prices: includes $495 destination charge(?)

2007 G650Xcountry $8200 black +ABS $650? (one article said $8626 +$670 for ABS, another said $9345 includes ABA + dest chg)

2008 G650Xcountry $7500 black (F800GS intro year)

2009 G650Xcountry $7995 yellow. +ABS $900. or black? (F800GS: $10,500-12,995)

2010 n/a?

VIN Lookup: VIN Lookup

BMW in Germany VIN Lookup

Regarding the G650X motor being made by Longcin in China after mid 2008, in chronological order: post by knowledgeable BMW Atlanta in 2008:

2007 G650’s were Rotax based, only 2008 G650XCountry’s are now starting to use Kymco produced engines. There is a revamped 09 F650GS single on the horizon and an F650GS Twin (F800’s little brother). On top of that there is rumor of a new subframe on 2008.5 G650XCountry’s to accomodate saddle bags. tons of stuff coming from BMW in the 650 segment, just gotta wait a few more months. post by Nemesis in 2008:

The Xchallenges and Xmotos stopped building (for awhile) in mid 2007. Up til then, they ALL carried Rotax engines built and assembled in Austria. The 2009 Xcountry carries a Rotax built engine that is ASSEMBLED in the Far East, China I believe. Then the bike is built in Austria! Period!

The F series single and the G series single are two different motors, very close design to be sure, but the result of two different contracts between BMW and Rotax. Old F single engine contract is expired, over, Kaput, understand? The current contract is for the G series (originally the Xchallenge, Xmoto, Xcountry.

Now only the G650GS and the Xcountry. Got it?) post by Bike4Fun in 2009:

BMW and KYMCO started the cooperation project two years ago, with the German partner sending over 10 engineers to help KYMCO set up a new production line and improve production processes. Six German engineers still remain with KYMCO to assure the quality fully meet BMW`s requirements. To meet BMW requirements, KYMCO organized a technical team of 30 experienced technicians, procured brand-new top-end equipment including computer numeric control (CNC) lathes and x-ray inspection instrument etc. post by XPADREX in 2009:

KYMCO is from Taiwan. LONGCIN, who makes the 650cc engine- is from Chonging Province, in China. post by BlackHammer in 2009:

I just found it humerous that the factory making the motor for BMW also makes Loncin engines. the ones everyone always warns you off buying. ( chinese crap quads as they are known in most of North America). This isn’t the same as a Buell with a chinese made wheel. or a Suzuki using a fuel pump from indonesia. IMHO.

I am not being anti-china here. and not saying the engines are crap. Given time they may one day compete with the japanese. but for now I still equate Loncin with lawnmower engines and cheap 80cc- 300cc pit bikes

Interesting story about motorcycle trade show in China (and Longcin factory!):

2009 Story about bikes in China, cool!

Pics of the city!

Pics of the CIMA2009 motorcycle expo.

China supercross final.

Longcin motorcycle factory (home of BMW 650 engine)

*** BMW F650GS Dakar general history: 2000-2006 F650GS Dakar then 2007 G650X ***

2000 and 2001 Dakar was white w/black checkers.

2002 and 2003 Dakar was Blue/white with Red/White/Blue flag emblems.

For 2004 was dual spark version or maybe this was 2005 in US.

2004, 2005 and 2006 Dakar were blue/aluminum.

(Note: When BMW released the *dual* spark FI models in the US, the first model was the 2005 – despite the bike being released in 2004. This was probably a marketing ploy – buying next years model is better right?)

2006 was last year for Dakar. Still made the F650GS in 2007 but skipped in 2008 when they introduced the F800GS twin.

Then in 2009 the 650 single came back as G650GS (and it’s new engine is now made in China) and the F650Gs is the restricted version of the F800GS twin.

All 2000-2007 singles have 50hp, 43ft-lbs(60Nm).

Dakar has 8.27 in of travel front/rear. 21 front wheel. 4.0gal tank. Weighs 390 lbs or 428 w/full tank.

Dakar has 34.2 seat height. (a KLR is 35 and an XR650 is 37). A GS non-Dakar is 30.7.

Dakar has 400W alternator.

The naming since 2009 is:

All Single cylinders will start with the letter G, all parallel Twins will begin with F, all Boxer Twins will still begin with an R, the in-line Fours will still be K models.

So the 2009 G650GS is a single (like the former F) with only 3 more HP: now 53hp, 43ft-lbs.

vs the 2009 F650GS is a dual with 71hp, 55ft-lbs at $10-12k.

Old F-series: 652cc Single

New F-series: 788cc Twin

New G-Series: 652cc Single

BMW G650 XChallenge
BMW G650 XChallenge
BMW G650 XChallenge
BMW G650 XChallenge

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