Virtual Restoration Blue Moon Cycle Norcross Georgia

26 Янв 2015 | Author: | Комментарии к записи Virtual Restoration Blue Moon Cycle Norcross Georgia отключены

Blue Moon Cycle, north of Atlanta in Norcross, is an authorized BMW motorcycles dealer. We specialize in vintage and hard-to-find and BMW parts.

Fax. 770.447.5798

Moon Cycle Virtual BMW R60/2

For our virtual restoration we chosen an R60/2 because particular bike is a perfect for restoration. This bike is challenged but very complete and The sheet medal is straight and showing surface rust on its original paint job.

importantly, the bike’s engine has good compression. Furthermore, on particular motorcycle the frame and the engine number match. is very important for getting the amount of value out of a restored BMW.

At the start of the restoration the shows 20,870 miles. the foot peg rubbers and kick lever show very wear we believe it could be all the this bike has seen. we open up the engine we’ll more; if the pistons are the standard size then the mileage is correct.

The previous owners have shown this a little more care by keeping the bike out of the weather. The only needs to be lubricated and

The standard 4 gallon gas tank has a few slight dents and some rust. Inside the fuel the original red oxide coating is in great shape. Even the BMW roundel survives chip

At first look, this looks to be very rough but you look at each of the components you see that it’s mostly and plating that brings the back to life.

The rear is rust free, straight, and not with extra holes. The area of the fenders on these are often a problem and can be very to repair. Luckily this is in excellent condition and the same for the tail light.

Notice that the rear shock handles haven’t been cut as is the case. Paint and plating is all will be needed here.

The fender and shock covers are This indicates that the has never been in a crash. The rims are only oxidized, but to say that the Avon Speedmasters seen better days.

we have the /2 Bosch Magneto. this one still works OK, it is our that it’s more a of when than if the 40 year old will fail. The old coil soft and squishy, indicating the lacquer insulation is breaking A bad coil will make the difficult to start, especially hot.

This is one item we replace with a new one before it us down.

The oil pan was removed and as you can see the oil was old and sludgy. news is that we don’t see any particles in the oil but it’s a good we didn’t run the bike with oil. Always remove the oil pan riding a newly purchased BMW. At the very least you give the oil pan a good cleaning.

The /2’s do not have oil filters, we get to the slingers we will know if are full of sludge.

The pistons are the original 71.95 MM size, means that this has never had an over bore. The are scuffed on the sides and although would probably work OK we replace them with a new set of oversize piston rings.

BMWs do not have a lot of chrome and that German chrome was very good, these are the we will be reechoing. It’s not effective to re-chrome some such as exhaust pipes, wheel rims and fender For parts like these it is to simply replace these It’s a toss-up about axles, as they are a precision fit and if the chrome gets to them will probably be too tight for the bearings.

Given this, we instead replace the originals a new set of stainless steel axles.

The aluminum parts are in good Aluminum polishing costs less than chroming so we send these parts to the Don’t bother polishing any that has a dent in it, as the defect only be magnified when it polished.

Here’s a photo of the we will be sending out for cad plating. basically all the steel parts on the that have the dull finish. Cadmium plating is inexpensive if you do the prep work

Each part must be blasted and perfectly clean and of the old plating. Be sure to dress any parts with a file blasting. If the holes in your seal nuts are elongated you can them oversize and they look new again. Do not use cad plating is only acid dipped.

If you the best possible finish worth the effort to bead the parts first.

The shocks leaked some oil so our bike get new shocks for both the front and These are not easy parts to so it’s best to replace with new shocks if you want to do the job the first time.

Here’s our block. As you can see in the picture, the timing are perfect and the crank looks it is in good condition as well. We know more when we the motor completely disassembled.

we will be removing the crankshaft and from the R60/2 engine We will start will Ed “Many in One Tool”. This provides a way to pull the timing gear covers, and main with relative ease.

The of this tool is about

First, we remove the camshaft the cam gear attached. We also the lifters and oil pump gear as it is for the lifters to have small on the faces where they the cam lobe. If the lifters are pitted or they should be replaced. check the side play of the in its bore. If you can wiggle them side to side you must new bushings in the lifter bores.

For this restoration the engine had perfect lifters so we won’t to replace any parts here. We want to check the timing teeth for pits or unusual These gears are in matched and individually sized to each so do not mix and match timing gears.

If are bad you will have to replace as a set and it’s expensive! We are happy to see this set is fine. The round disc is the crank case valve.

As this disc it opens a passage to allow the case gasses to escape, the engine to maintain optimum pressure as the pistons move up and in their bore. The face of the valve must be smooth to a good seal, but luckily part seldom wears out

Now we use our tool to remove the crank timing gear from the This gear is a tight fit so it helps if you heat the gear a propane torch to about 220 hot enough to fry spit but not so hot as to damage the of the steel.

The front bearing is removed after we pulled the gear. Next remove the two ring screws and take out the ring. Heat the rear support and lightly tap the crank from the rear.

The rear bearing and crank will forward and hang loose in the Now rotate the crank until the crank web is facing upward. Now up on the front of the crank and pull the out of the case.

This is a real puzzle but it goes easy. hard to imagine how they this on paper before the of computers. The Germans were smart!

When the crankshaft is you are ready to pull the rear bearing. Again here we use “Many in One Tool” by first the bearing as you don’t want to any material from the crank We always replace the main as these parts are relatively and they do sometimes fail. sure to not just use any bearing your local bearing This is because although all bearings are the same size, are all not the same.

They have types of ball cages and are made to differing degrees of Buy your main bearings a reputable source with BMW experience, or buy genuine BMW parts.

If the rods have more .0004” axial play will have to be rebuilt new bearings. Blue Moon rebuilt crank shafts for if this is the case.

Here’s a close up of one of the two slinger As you can see it is totally full of hard sludge. This material is a of aluminum, steel, and bronze the normal wear and tear of the internal parts. It’s all together with carbon the combustion gasses and old motor You can pick it out with a sharp pick or you can sand blast it out but takes time.

We will ours away and replace it a new slinger ring. How can you tell if slingers are full? The answer is you can’t. The only way to know is to disassembly of the engine. You will the cost of a crankshaft rebuild if you it in time.

Wait too long and the passage shuts of the oil supply to the rod causing an audible knock by a loud knock, followed by a walk home.

Our cylinder cleaned up nicely in the bead but one of the exhaust threads is stripped so it to our machinist for Heliarc and rethreading.

We now perform a 3 angle cut on the valve using the Neway valve tool set. I have hundreds of valve jobs the years with this set of Neway cutting tools. kit will do any BMW air head as well as other motorcycles. I have used this tool on my Studebaker and my 1937 Cadillac.

The kit consists of various cutting different sized pilot and a T handle.

Here you can see the cutting adjustable carbide teeth set at the angle. These teeth are cutting well after of use.

The pilot rod has a very taper so it is held firm in the

After new valve guides are the valve seat is cut to 30 degrees, 45 and 75 degrees. It is important that the head contact the seat to insure a good seal and a lasting cool running When the tool is set up to cut, it takes a few twists of the wrist to the sealing surface.

The intake now has a new three angle cut. Up to now we only cut the 45 degree angle on the seat.

This is the valve the sealing face has been cut at 45 Your local auto store can do this for just a bucks.

We used special 2 8 mm reamers to size the valve Be sure to use a reamer that is to cut the soft bronze valve

Our R60 motor is now reassembled.

Next we build a set of wheels with new rims and spokes. The first after removing the tire is to cut the old out of the rim. This is best by using a bolt cutter.

There is no point in saving the old and nipples but do be sure to save the brass spoke plates as are expensive and reusable. Chrome charge over $200 per to plate a rim so you will save by simply replacing your Aluminum rims can be polished if are not heavily pitted, but be sure your rim is straight before you it out for polishing.

BMW R60/2

Follow the shop to inspect your wheel You can use your axle and a homemade spacer to hold the bearings in while tapping them Always use heat when wheel bearings.

After inspect the bearing races for pits or rust and replace any bearings and pack them a good quality wheel grease.

If a bearing is replaced the will have to be re-shimmed as you minimal free play no binding when the axle nut is Test the bearing fit before the are installed in the wheel. You really do not a full set of bearing shims to do job but you will need a lathe to cut the to size.

We have given our hubs the bead blast and they are now ready for the bearings to be along with new seals. I will clear coat the blasted hubs with a treatment. The hubs will cleaner and will resist but the look will be somewhat from original.

There’s a about wheel lacing a magic science and a lost It’s really quite The BMW wheel hub directs the spokes for requiring that the wheel can be assembled one way. If this is first wheel lacing do just one wheel at a time so you have an assembled wheel to to. It is important to note that rims have a left and a right side, basically you put an inside spoke to an inside and outside spoke to an outside

If the spokes interfere with other where they try flipping the rim over. BMW spokes use a 4mm so some aftermarket spokes, as Buchanan’s which use a 5mm nipple and which also have nipples, can present problems trying to lace them to a rim. I suggest you get your and your spokes from the source.

It’s a good to use anti-seize compound on the spoke especially if you are using stainless I personally prefer chrome spokes as they are brighter and authentic.

After the wheel is and all spokes are finger tight it is to start the lacing process. you want to note the rim offset. You can this on the second wheel you haven’t yet dissembled. The rim offset is as the sideways distance from the of the rim to the edge of the brake drum a straight edge or a ruler to the offset.

Now, begin snugging the using a proper spoke You want to turn each about a quarter turn at a always adjusting for the run out and the side-to-side A little practice and you will get the of it.

Continue this process all the spokes are tight and the rim spins You can tap on each spoke with the to hear if they ring. A sound indicates a loose By the way, a fancy truing is actually not necessary for this

The earl’s fork swing arm make a fine stand and it is not to lace and true BMW wheels. can do it with a little patience and

Use the special wheel nut pin wrench tightening or loosening the wheel as it will prevent you from any damage. I always replace the hub with new ones given they are relatively inexpensive and look great. Of course I tell you Blue Moon sells the parts and tools to build your wheels

Or put your crusty wheels in a box and them to us. In a few days they come back looking new.

I prefer to powder the frame and small parts. coats are much more than paint and looks the as paint if done properly. Our coated frame and forks are and the power train is installed but we to get the engine in the frame first so we can assemble the rolling chassis but way works.

We will use masking to protect the components as they are assembled. All sheet metal get a base clear coat hand applied pinstripe the clear coat. If you don’t an original on hand for reference several photos of the stripes stripping so your striper know how to apply the stripes.

almost guaranteed he won’t get right unless he has a good to copy.

We replace front and swing arm bearings and we install a new set of roller bearings in the fork along with a new set of European low bars, all new cables, and all new rubber We are also using our stainless bolt kit on this bike. bolts look great and assembly time but note if you are going for a concourse 100 point you will want to use all the original with new cad plating.

Since is not a technical article we will thru the electrical details. The wire harness is super as it only contains about ten and that are color coded. at the headlight and work your way The /2 owner’s manual has an excellent schematic in case you get lost. best to photograph the wire before disassembly so you know the routing as this is not laid out in any

We had a good terminal board but the harness is being replaced a new one. The terminal block for the light usually gets and a new one is cheap insurance against problems. I hate to see nylon ties on a vintage bike so all wire ties should be the original metal strap Bar end blinkers by Hella are a nice accessory and a unique item for bikes.

Your battery have a removable lid like the Stay away from the battery. It works fine but like crap.

Next, we to clean and lubricate the speedometer, new bezel rims are available and can be on by hand with a screw I do not recommend you zero the mileage, better to preserve the history of by keeping the odometer mileage to the bike.

As you can see below we have now assembly of our R60/2 restoration As you can see, the bike is stunning. I like the solo seat and wheels. We tried to stay as to stock as possible. The elegance of the BMW is not enhanced with extra or gaudy accessories and even the tank looks perfect on bike.

We will paint the black so it looks more After a little more tuning the bike purrs a kitten. We will treat it a new bike, with 500 easy followed by an oil change and a valve

Steering head bearings also be snugged and brakes after some break in

These mid 60’s BMW’s are a pleasure to ride. They are and quiet and the quality is obvious. We now turned back the clock and 40 years of neglect.

It is very to own and ride a motorcycle you restored I would encourage anyone the desire to restore a motorcycle to go for it and if the you decide to restore happens to be a keep us in mind. We are always with parts and technical to help you complete your

Happy riding and wrenching,

BMW R60/2
BMW R60/2
BMW R60/2
BMW R60/2


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