2009 Buell 1125R Voltage Regulator Upgrade

21 Янв 2015 | Author: | Комментарии к записи 2009 Buell 1125R Voltage Regulator Upgrade отключены
Buell 1125R

2009 Buell 1125R Regulator Upgrade

Introduction

The Buell 1125R has problems overheating stators right out of the The high electrical load lights and radiator fans with inadequate stator tends to melt the insulation and the stator windings out over This means that charging capability slowly over time until the fails to start or run completely.

cheap fix for this issue was to a wiring harness with a that would switch off one of the phases under certain to reduce heat in the stator. harness introduces more points, reduces charging and does not fix any existing stator I noticed my charging voltage dip into the high 12V range for amounts of time and the bike had starting afterward, which is not

I removed the free harness and that a much better way to the heat load in the stator is to the electrical load on it.

FH012AA

I decided to upgrade the regulator from the stock voltage regulator to a MOSFET-type which is much more I decided on the Shindengen FH012AA. is the stock part on some motorcycles. The normal shunt-type always draw the entire 12V current from the stator though they waste any voltage as heat in the regulator.

I thought the FH012AA MOSFET-type switched individual stator off when there is excess which I now know is incorrect. The FH* regulators are just more at shorting stator phases out a normal shunt regulator. A series or switching regulator Compufire or Cycle Electric. stator phases on over-voltage.

reduces the average current from the stator, which reduce stator heat and full battery charge.

was very straight forward and the kit Roadstercycle.com linked above is After installing the kit, I got at cold idle, which decreased to 14.1V as the bike up to 190. While riding, the ranges from 13.9V to depending on temperature and RPM, is certainly better than

Here is where the voltage mounts inside of the seat

Here is the original voltage strangely a Ducati part, its wiring removed and connected to the kit If I were doing this I would leave a few inches of connected to the original regulator in I ever wanted to reuse it.

shot shows where I had to a small locating tab with a Dremel cutoff wheel in my drill. The new regulator has slightly dimensions than the original, but is plenty of room for it.

I used new thermal paste (Arctic and drilled a new top bolt hole in the plate. The bottom stud if you use just the nut without the original I coaxed the mounting plate with a small hammer.

tight, but it does fit. If you get it to fit, try reversing it so the connectors do not with the small fuse I had to trim a small amount of from the under-tail panel to get it in place and allow for airflow the new regulator.

Fried Stator

Buell 1125R

About miles later, my stator Now I find out that the FH012AA is a shunt-type regulator, just efficient than the factory So, this regulator probably did to extend the life of my stator. A move would have to use a Compufire or Cycle Electric or switching regulator.

Here is a install thread with a important note: Bottom — if your model the board) has rare instances of failure, the MOSFET units are replacements. But if your models from high incidence of failure, a Series R/R like the may be another choice. Here is an experiment comparing the two types of and here is a related thermal .

CE-605 SB

So, I decided to upgrade to a Cycle Electric CE-605 SB rectifier regulator with kit. This one should limit current though the and therefore heat in the stator. I am this at the same time I am the stator and modifying the rotor on my 1125R. If weight is any indication of quality, the CE-605 SB is going to the Buell. It is a good bit larger and than the FH012AA.

The easiest and intrusive mounting location I was just below the stock fender extension that the turn signals and license It will not interfere with travel or passenger foot and it will be far from engine, muffler, and oil cooler heat. is a decent air path for convection while stopped and it should get of air flow while moving.

I it with four black cable ties and backed up with black 550 parachute sometimes the simplest solution is I drilled a hole under the for the wires, cut the connections to the FH012AA, and in the CE-605 SB. I left the FH012AA in as a

I did some hot idle testing as of my stator rewind. I idled the in various states for about an The results were promising. an hour of idling, the regulator was hot. I did not take a direct measurement, but I could only it for 1-2 seconds, which works out to 70C or 160F.

It was definitely cooler boiling, 100C or 212F, is a safe operating temperature for automotive electronic components diodes and transistors. So, there be enough convection back to keep it running safely long idle sessions. a small amount of air movement inching up in traffic would reduce its temperature. Mounting the near the oil cooler does not like the best idea to me.

During my testing, I could not the side of the oil cooler for more a tiny fraction of a second, so mounting there would be Also, a lot of the radiator air is blown while stopped, which up the area in front of and beside the oil It would be fine as long as the air temperature is less than the regulator temperature where I have it mounted. Here are the with my rewound stator, rotor, and the regulator mounted the rear fender extension:


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