Ducati Sport Touring ST3-2004 ST 3-2004 manual, review

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http://www.perryr.com/DucatiSTFAQ.html (13 of 101)10/28/2007 PM

headlamp as part of the restyled fairing, height-adjustable bars (1 than the original ST bars, can be back to original position) and most significant of all, a seat. The ST3 also has the 2003 upgraded accessory power All new three valve per cylinder gel seat 20A power socket CAN New windscreen and headlamp design adjustable bars Remote adjuster

Colours available: Yellow, Metallic Silver Colour: Metallic Grey and ABS models: Many of the improvements for the new ST3 also introduced to the ST4s seat CAN electronics New windscreen and design Height adjustable Remote headlight adjuster levers are stock and aluminium in Handle bars mount to tubes below the top triple (Previous models mounted the top of the triple clamp.) Top triple is gullwing shaped to allow room for the different handlebar above Instrument cluster is differently.

It now holds the immobilizer The instrument surrounds are now eliminated. The and front brake master are coffin shaped and similar in Rear tire hugger is now Carbon Fiber on previous models.

New 5A accessory fuse in fusebox. Listed for heated Colours available: Yellow, Metallic Silver. Frame Metallic Grey


In the 2005 model year, the ST3 and got wet clutches. Controversial among owners of previous model STs, Ducati says it to a wet clutch to decrease clutch and lower noise. LT Snyders ST3 review for Motorcycle Consumer noted that the clutch of his bike was slightly grabby, as the plates were sticking due to adhesion, and hard to find

2005 also saw the introduction of fairing fasteners, as a direct of ST owner feedback.

ST3: fairing fasteners Wet clutch trim on the windscreen gone. improvements over 04.

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Colours available: Black, Red, Metallic Frame Colour: Black, on the black model, metallic on others ST4s and ABS models fairing fasteners Wet clutch trim on the windscreen gone. adjusters of the forks are wing nut in Seat improvements over 04.

available: Gloss Black, Metallic Grey with red Frame Colour: Black, on the black model, metallic on others

3.11 Thermostat

the thermostat, from John (in response to an overheating problem by a member): First, it’s a thermostat exactly like the one in almost all Italian cars. hooked up to the hoses in the cooling lying on the left side of the just in front of the engine What it looks like is an casting with three coming out of it.

The pipes are hooked up to the The way it works is that when the water pump circulates through the bypass section, sending anything to the radiator. the coolant circulates all the time.

When warm, the valve to allow coolant to flow the radiator, and closes the bypass. To the system, you really have to the fairings off. First, off the radiator cap to check the fluid

Look in the radiator — the should be right up to the top. the system, if necessary. The plastic should drain when you the radiator cap.

If it does then the little tube the bottle to the radiator is blocked. the engine from cold, and the water connection on the side of the (that’s the water pump), and the They should almost start to feel slightly

This means that the is actually circulating. As the engine up, the engine, and all of the small hoses the heads to the water pump, start to get hot. The radiator may to get warm too.

At some the thermostat will open and the radiator will get really I don’t know the exact temperature, but it’s probably 160 to 180 degrees F.

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If you have a stock EPROM the fan should come on at about 220 F, and off at about 200 F. There are two identical sensors in the system — one for the gauge and one for the fuel injection. The one (if I remember right) is for the fuel This temperature information is used to control the fan, the computer and a fan relay beneath the

It is not necessary to use an expensive tester to the temperature sensors, since are simply variable resistors. since they are the same, you can them if that helps you in Here are the resistance values as I them, for these sensors (I not found a specification for this): 60 F 3.1 K Ohms 130 F — 800 Ohms 220 F 180 Ohms If you don’t have circulation, the most likely would be an improperly filled

This system is easy to because there’s very to it and it’s supposed to be self To help things along, I bleed it anyway. Remove the hose from the radiator, and coolant into the hose to the engine. It will flow through both heads to the pump.

When you can’t get any fluid into the hose, put it on loosely, and fill the radiator. the radiator by pulling the upper back until fluid out. The whole system, the reservoir bottle, takes a gallon. I’d use a high-quality intended for motorcycles.

I hope is helpful. If the system is filled and there is no circulation, then I be looking into the water

3.14 Putting the Rear back in

Why have a section on your rear wheel? if youve done it, you will that Ducati have put a in which is designed to fall out in a way that its not always obvious how it back in!

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Ron provides the tips: The dome spacer does go on the sprocket of the rear wheel. The domed goes against the wheel and the side against the swingarm. always found it easier to the chain over the sprocket trying to align the rear caliper and axle, then the axle. Also, it’s a good idea to clean the before reinstalling and coat it a very thin, very layer of grease.

This make reassembly much and also helps prevent whick mine started to do I replaced the original tire. always followed the shop specs on chain tension. recommended for 30mm of free on the bottom run of chain under the when checked at the mid way point the counter shaft and rear

When adjusting chain I’ve always measured axle alignment by measuring the axle distance to the swingarm and not by the marks on the swingarm. I usually go by the point of the swingarm pivot to the or rear of the axle. The torque on the rear axle nut call for

The chain tensioner bolt for 8 Nm.

3.15 Checking belt

There are some hints on on checking the belt tension on ST2 having the special tool. take these as provided and all things on this page, you them at your own risk. tells us: The 5mm allen wrench is for the st2 only.

I am not sure if it is correct, but is the method my dealer stated use for the st4 (not sure if ST4S is the When pushing outward on the between the cams with thumb with moderate the edge of the belt should touch the outer edge of the where the belt cover I was told that is is ok if the belt touches the inside of the cover time to time. I was told it is to run them too loose rather too tight.

I hope this sense. It is a difficult to explain a picture, and it is difficult gauge pressure. I checked the belt on my bike at 600 miles with method, and it was very close. At the instructor for the valve adjustment used a gauge to set the tension for the and I tested this method on the afterward.

I found the result to be Please take this with a grain of salt. If in I would let the dealer set the tension. belts = $$$$ $ Bill a site which might http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/2228/desmo.htm

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WHY DESMO? What pushed Fabio Taglioni, and everybody at Ducati, to persevere with the system? In an interview of 1989, himself explained that, in (which means, in real there is not ONE best solution in terms.

The secret of success is to ones intuition with logic and ingeniousness. it was just by calculations that I had to conclude, at the end of a of logically connected, very engineering considerations, that it was to eliminate the spring preloading! knew that it would be a bristling with obstacles with designing and manufacturing, but he to leave behind the two traditional of a spring system: heavy loading, which meant engine work (and the power loss) valve at high RPM.

In other words: To obtain results with a spring it is necessary to find a compromise heavier spring loading (possibility to turn at high while preventing valve and lighter spring loading (loss control, loss the amount of work necessary to the valves against the spring it should be remembered that the is driven by the engine; and smaller of the parts involved, proportional to the loading). These problems are all by a desmodromic system: smoothness consequently, decreased losses) at low RPM and at high RPM (without valve are obtained.

Ducati has consistently its desmodromic system ever 1956. It is the only manufacturer in the to have applied it to anything standard production bikes to glory: the achieved standard of mirrors Ducati corporate

4.10 Engine Temperatures

owners new to the ST range of Dukes get about the apparently very temperatures experienced while the bike in heavy traffic As an example, one owner (of a brand new reported that while the temperature was 84F (29C), the engine was around 174F (79C). In the temperature went up to 226F

Its not unusual for bikes to show a high reading. Roger an example on his ST2: The temp is OK. My 2001 ST2 often goes up to as as 105C (221F) in town then the fan kicks in and it comes down again. It is really hot in leathers on a hot day with a hot engine in isnt it? My previous Duc, a Paso, also did the heat with no problems at all.

On roads, even short the temp will come down again, the ST2 cruises at 69/70C (158F). The manual for my ST2 indicates that the maximum is 120C (248F). If this is exceeded, then the temperature will start blinking.

A of owners have made a (apparently) mod to their bikes to the fan to kick in at a lower temperature. If I get details, Ill post them

5.20 Rear Brake warning

A potential problem the rear brake line through on an ST2 was reported by Ray C: I have noted an interesting and potentially problem with the rear hose carrier on my ST2.

(59 of 101)10/28/2007 2:53:22 PM

I’m not that anyone has ever this before, so maybe my is an isolated case, but here are the for your information: On the ST2 there is a carrier above the swing arm holds the rear brake out of harms way. It is presumably to prevent the free length of from becoming abraded or by the rear suspension spring and mechanicals. I have noticed the wire carrier is actually the hose quite severely.

In my the hose has a chunk of rubber from its wall because the end of the has been digging into it the natural movement of the swingarm. the hose has not failed and I have modified the carrier slightly, is a great potential here for failure of the rear brake. I advise all ST owners to check the on their bikes to make they do not have a similar

My Ducati dealer has put in a warranty and they will be replacing the but it doesn’t sound like are planning on changing or modifying the carrier. As a temporary measure I fitted a piece of thin sleeving over the wire end and bent the wire end outwards to help prevent further to the hose.

5.21 Spluttering and

One owner reported a problem his bike would misfire, and sometime stall. Stephen a suggestion: .since the onset of weather here in the land of Oz. I been putting up with the her sessions for the last couple of and will do so until she goes in for the km service. Feels like it is in nature.

Ducati ST3

Maybe a regulator on way out. It usually does not until I have done at 20 km and then she will splutter and and sometimes almost …. It was one of the sensors that was intermittently bad. The Mathesis should up that straight away, my episode with it was due to my mechanic/dealer not a Mathesis.

Once I had it diagnosed on the it was obvious. Check the connections to the first, they may just some attention.

5.22 base gasket leak

A few of the gasket at the base of the rear leaking have been Fariborz did some research: all the posts about the leak, I to call Munroe Motors to out why the gasket leaks and what is the This is what the service Rick, at Munroe said: has changed oil passage ways on the cylinder for better lubrication on the and 2002, 4 valve 916 engines S4 and ST4).

As part of this the gasket was also redesigned to the changes. Anyway the new gasket leaks on some new bikes (Do not how many). The solution is to remove the and put what they call goop for lack of better and let it dry for overnight. According to Rick at this is a two-day or three-day job to let the goop dry out).

No drilling of any is required. The good question is why did Modified the oil Passage way to the vertical for better lubrication! You do not think it has to do with the FLAKY ROCKER do you?



5.24 runs poorly, wont rev about 5000 rpm

The following eui useful information) comes John Clifton. Sounds he found out the hard way. ST owning friends of mine had this problem occur, after a service where the filter has been replaced: — bike runs poorly, refusing to rev over 5000rpm.

Cause — one of the lines in the tank attached to the pump has come adrift, due the pipe not being reattached after having the fuel changed during a service — remove tank, lay on ground (hopefully on something say your pillion’s jacket they can put up with the petrol remove fuel pump tank, be careful as the seal can it a bit of a struggle, re-attach offending stop, now recheck the hoses to sure they are all going to the outlets, replace the o-ring with that spare one you under the seat, grease the with a little chain carefully put the pump back in the tank back on bike Ride away cursing the mechanic who failed to attach the properly in the first place.

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Rusty Steering Head

Some owners have that Ducati is pretty when it comes to putting on the steering head bearings, in some noticeable rusting. Harhay: I just finished the 03ST4s steering head Like everyone says not a lot of grease on them. FYI there is a so the chance of water and crud into the bearings is small.

I am not of the other models however. I put in a amount and retorqued the special From Ron Ginter: I’ve got steering head bearings!

will be replaced under (phew!), but I wondered if anyone has had a experience? My dealer says Ducati doesn’t grease very well because don’t consider that ride their touring in the rain , so I immediately wondered if in the soggy Pacific Northwest has had problem? From d888spoltd: your dealer is correct. I think that’s any different many other manufacturers

Check out this months World for a commentary on bearings and them. I took apart steering head, and swingarm on both my Ducatis when I them and each were starved of grease. It never to take them apart, and regrease.

Bill Anderson I posted the rusted steering bearings question on the UK ST Yahoo because of the similar climates of the UK and I got an e-mail from a gentleman in Ireland who replaced his at 35,000 because of rust. From George: Mine were at 20 thousand km, I was not happy, the boys me they HAVE to be re-packed at or they rust, as apparently go sparingly with the grease at the dear [expensive[ little too.

Now I re-grease them 10 thou or so. I was told at the local they do their own things as as factory procedure, and theyve in the past that the head need re-packing at the first service, so that they at all.and having to replace @20,000, Im not going to argue, as they mustnt have packed maybe its more a grease top-up, more an actual re-pack.

Sandy My 2002 ST4s had rusty steering bearings at about mostly sunny miles. Robert Mohns Over the few months, I’d noticed the bike wasn’t handling right. I wasn’t sure how to describe it, but when I was in a couple ago to have a new front tire put on, gave it a test ride and that he thought the steering bearings were in bad shape he described it.

So he pulled them and sure enough, they not happy campers brown The upper seal doesn’t fit closely enough to seal, so and dirt can leak in. The bottom is fairly well, though so and dirt get in and mix with the grease the bearings, resulting in the bearings in what looks and feels like mud!

The upper bearings weren’t as bad, but weren’t good Two new bearings were $48 each, and the handles like it’s to again! If, like me, you ride bike in the rain, you might to consider checking and if necessary the bearings as your mileage

http://www.perryr.com/DucatiSTFAQ.html (64 of 101)10/28/2007 2:53:22 PM

ST2 pipes to ST4s. It is not clear these were factory pipes or aftermarket (unrestricted, flow) pipes. Reviews User Experiences

Fast by Ferraci

From: Bennings I purchased fbf carbon (manufactured by sil [Sil Motors]) ebay ($390 delivered, Condition) for my ST2 and the sound has been and welcome. I would have to have gotten them but they were perfect. I price has a lot to do with your how much you are willing to spend.

The and the terms are not cheap. Good Sil Motor

From: Mohns I had Sil Motor carbon pipes on my ST4s (and again, when they’re very mellow, deep, sound. None of the harshness of or Ducati Performance pipes. the clear coat carbon sils look really

Many owners modify airbox by drilling largish in the lid (to get better airflow and a bit more Details of this can be found in the on the list (Ive not had time to it yet). Other options to you are specially designed replacements. are also a number of after washable filter elements can be used.

There are two from KN, one of requires some trimming of the lid to The other (part #du-9098) fit without any mods. Justin more detail: The centre of the airbox lid usually has to be removed fitting an aftermarket air filter, as a KN, which is a lot deeper (and more filtering area) a standard filter. It’s not to produce more noise, more noise might be the

I managed to fit my KN by only removing the ends of the divider in the lid, but I to be careful when replacing the lid and to ensure a correct fit. By the fitting an aftermarket filter not give an increase in performance spent enough time on Dyno’s to know this), but you access to a filter which is and hence reusable. LARGE in the rear face of the airbox lid give you an increase in performance

The filter itself is not the restriction rather the lid is.

Ducati ST3
Ducati ST3
Ducati ST3

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