Replacing and Tensioning Ducati 748/916/996 Timing Belts — Scandalon

30 Мар 2015 | Author: | Комментарии к записи Replacing and Tensioning Ducati 748/916/996 Timing Belts — Scandalon отключены

Replacing and Tensioning Ducati Timing Belts

It is recommended you change the cam/timing belts on the 748/916/996 every 2 years or miles. Some will say miles just to be safe. The interval is important, as the belts can go just from sitting.

you would then only to adjust the belts in that belts aren’t expensive to the amount of work required to them, so it seems worth it to use new belts.

After doing research on the subject, I decided to this bit of maintenance myself. I the procedure outlined here and (same writeup, different case one disappears) up to step 19. For the tension, I used the acoustic method described here .

Give yourself time. sure the bike is in a place you can leave it in pieces overnight if you any unexpected issues. Here is a of my experience, with a few additional of info:

Battery Removal

electrical bundle: 5mm allen


Battery clip: 8mm

box bolts: (2) 8mm

Uncork rubber bundle

Getting to the Motor

fill the gas tank. You need to remove it from the bike, and it be much easier with as fuel as possible.

Removing the will give you some room, but know that the is delicate. I left mine on.

Tank bolt (under 5mm allen

I’ve read the fuel tubes are interchangeable. stay in place pretty either way, and will up when reinstalling the tank. If you to be sure that all the tubes return to their original label them with tape.

Airbox: (6) 6mm allen (2 in front, four regular), (4)

Front fairing: (2) 8mm

Spark (2) 5/8″ – OEM is Champion RA59GC. is no NGK equivalent. Turning the front helps to access the horizontal plug. It can be hard to get at due to clearance

I had to install my socket and extension on the first, then attach my wrench to the extension.

Belt Replacement

Belt 22mm (box wrench for adjuster, 12mm for locking nut (to prevent the adjuster from I don’t believe the lock are special, you can probably grab any 6mm locking flange nut from a retailer. That said, the part number is 74940081A and an Honda part number is

After the belts have removed, the right cam wheel on the cylinder will be twisted you used the handy cam wheel tool ). It is difficult to hold in while installing the belts. is what I did: Line up the marks (cam wheel, and belt) line up the right then twist the right cam and as one until you are able to hook the onto the left cam wheel the marks lined up.

I read about another simpler method) here. the engine so the crank pulley in the CCW direction about 5 teeth. I rotate both head cam the same amount and then put the on. I then rotate the engine 5 to make sure all the dots up.” Make sure the cam don’t make any full

The horizontal cylinder is at Top Dead (TDC) of the compression … the marks on the cam wheels are lined up the marks on the engine case belt marks may not be aligned if the has been turned). In any event, the TDC and window stuff can be ignored; the on belt tension is negligible.

When tensioning a belt, end on a tension …. In other if your tension is too tight, it a bit more than you need to, tighten back up (like a string). This isn’t as you’ll be turning the engine a few times to test that the remains consistently in spec, but a good practice.

Belt should be within 5 Hz of 110 Hz. Err on the loose

To measure the frequency of the belts, I a Windows XP laptop, free a preamp. and a mic. A lot of things work (certain guitar possibly an iPhone), you just to be sure you’re getting an reading. My equipment returned and consistent frequency measurements I plucked the belt.

Rotate the motor around and again. Tension should consistent.

Ducati 996 S
Ducati 996 S
Ducati 996 S
Ducati 996 S
Ducati 996 S
Ducati 996 S

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