2008 Honda CBR1000rr Racebike Build

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Honda CBR1000RR concept

For the 2010 roadracing season I it was time to upgrade my racebike the current 2006 GSXR to something a bit more advanced in As much as I’ve enjoyed the GSXR, after three of faithful service I concluded some of the shortcomings I’ve with would best be with a new base platform

Something lighter, more centralized and with a stock system I could use in supersport-based without seeing Elvis other turn. In other the 2008 Honda CBR1000rr.

The to go from a Suzuki to a Honda taken lightly; I’ve Suzukis as trackbikes for almost years now, and always they came with an motor and chassis straight out of the But on the showroom floor the latest GSXR liter bike to be more sport-tourer then and I knew it would be quite to transform it into the type of I wanted to race.

Conversely, sitting on the Honda CBR1000rr several aspects that no amount of money thrown at the could address; the chassis ‘600’ class small, and the as a whole felt about 50 lbs then the GSXR — with full street Furthermore, some of the key components as front brake master immediately felt better.

reason for changing over was 2010 was Honda’s third year of production for this something uncommon amongst manufacturers who routinely change motorcycles every two years in an to stay ahead of the competition. A year of production meant such as spare parts would be less of an issue, isn’t a minor consideration building a racebike.

Finally, the giveaway price Honda was on 2008 leftovers, the decision to go the CBR1000rr was a no-brainer. As a result, on 12, 2009 I took delivery of a new 2008 CBR1000rr in the classic and silver finish.

This will show how the bike is from the showroom fresh you see below to a (hopefully) competitive racing machine.

And here she is, the day I took delivery. When the model was first released, I didn’t care too much for the of the bike due in part to a front end looked like it had been in the nose. However, having racing CBRs turned incredible looking machines I that the appearance could be addressed with some race bodywork and paint.

A over the bike reveals a of positive design traits, a cockpit that is sensibly out and controls that automatically correct in their positioning with a large, centrally-mounted

The stock exhaust system the lengths Honda went to achieve a maximum level of centralization. Even better be the weight savings and power to come from something of titanium without a catalyzer up the works (for closed-course use I promise. )

Here’s one selection of that no level of flashy can mask if they’re substandard: the braking system. Nowadays either come with brakes straight from the or they don’t. The Honda feel solid at the lever. the do not.

Tokico mono-bloc and the latest design Nissin master cylinder equate to a better braking system out the box — a critical concern for me and a improvement over what used in the past.


While patiently awaiting the of several key parts for the build I the CBR on the street for about 100 break-in Several things I noticed away were the nimble and lightweight feel, both of were exceptional for a liter-class The power in stock form good, though not as strong as my had been.

I could also differences in the power delivery various parts of the rev range upon what the exhaust valves were doing, was an interesting sensation but one that designed more for sound then power delivery.

receiving an Ohlins FGK 140 fork kit it was time to begin disassembling the to remove the stock forks and them off to Ohlins USA to have the kit

One lesson I quickly learned was the CBR has some of the trickiest to disassemble bodywork I’ve ever with. In an effort to save Honda engineered very and lightweight body panels were designed with that fold together origami. It took a good to figure out how to dismantle everything in to remove the stock bodywork breaking any of the connecting tabs.

On the side the upper cowling/headlight is a one piece unit and was easy to with all of the key components staying once the mirrors were off.

This is just one of the type of small panels used in the design of the stock

Sidepanels off, lowers and front brake calipers

Once the upper cowling is you can see how neatly everything is packaged. race glass installed this bike will be a

I always take note of how the forks were originally before removing them for In this case they from the factory with the of the fork caps flush the top triple clamp.

With the off you can see motor in all its glory. I love on new bikes simply because the are so clean. I can already see a number of that will have to be wired for racing, but on the plus everything seems readily

Left side of the motor. duty case covers are for racing — Woodcrafts are on the

Here the stock forks are from the bike and lined up to the Ohlins cartridge kits are going be installed; I highly the cartridge kits for anyone to greatly improve the feel of bike’s suspension during use. In this case the kit comes with the upgraded valving, but will have to be for my weight. They’re on their way now to USA in North Carolina to be resprung and in the stock forks.

As a change of I decided to look into a new for race bodywork. Auctmarts is a manufacturer that has become known for their aftermarket street bodywork kits of injection molded plastic. the past several years the of their street bodywork is to have improved greatly, and sales are growing strong in the segment.

Lesser known is Auctmarts recently started full-on fiberglass race after several conversations one of their representatives I was able to the paintscheme I wanted for next and Auctmarts was kind enough to several rough draft (shown above). As a result of help and commitment to providing raceglass for this project, I to give them a try. The is currently being produced, and looking forward to seeing the product.

Final draft concept for the CBR

NOVEMBER 8, 2009

What way to spend a Sunday afternoon dismantling a perfectly good and making it more durable and oriented for racing. But before can be bolted on, the strip-down must

With the cover taken off the tank you can see the ‘Honda Electronic Damper’ (HESD) unit the headstock. This will be replaced by a conventional damper to consistent operation and reliability racing. With the seat and section removed you can see how compact is packaged.

The small black labeled YTZ7S is actually the battery, with the fuse located below it and the exhaust servo control to the right. One part I quickly found was the passenger footpegs were to the inside of the subframe rails. better was that the battery box was in such a way that it would to be taken out in order to access the bolts for removal.

After different ways to dismantle the box I finally decided that the way to do remove the pegs was to simply the subframe from the bike to access them.

Once the was unbolted the passenger footpegs off easily enough. Now time to the rider footpegs.

Honda a pretty unique approach their stock rearset as you can see, the shift lever is a completely separate unit the footpeg bracket. Problem is, the has to be replaced with something and higher mounted to allow for ground clearance, and the shift is too suceptable to crash damage. As a the stock items will be with a set of proven rearsets Woodcraft Racing.

This is the of the stock brake-side rearset Note the return springs for the lever and rear brake — these will be altogether with the Woodcraft

Other parts required for are heavy-duty engine covers. engine covers are generally for aesthetics and light weight, means they are thin and to grinding through or breaking in even the slowest of lowside Heavy-duty engine covers the bike to slide on them dumping oil from the motor the track.

Like the rearsets, was chosen for the engine covers. I Woodcraft mainly because offer a two-piece cover which includes a separate ‘slider’ that bolts on the inside of the cover. Here is a of the back of the right side cover and slider.

On the left the stator cover also to be replaced with a heavy-duty When replacing this it’s important to remember to put on every bolt that be used to transfer the stock components to the Woodcraft cover.

the Woodcraft stator cover is in design then the stock for additional clearance, Woodcraft a smaller replacement bolt and for the stator. The stock bolt is on the left, with the Woodcraft on the right. Every little bit of counts!

Once the components been transferred over the cover is given a thin of gasket sealer and bolted on. The red in the center is the replaceable slider.

item to replace: the stock absorber. Properly setup suspension is a key component for any racebike. In case the stock unit is replaced with the latest Ohlins TTX racing shock One observation about the CBR right is that the stock shock is packaged incredibly tight the swingarm and engine.

The photo to the shows the stock shock arrangement.

With the stock removed you can see how the swingarm is literally around the shock absorber.

you can see the external differences between the shock absorber and the Ohlins on the left. I initally wondered if the shock would even fit in the space given its dimensions. eyelet to eyelet, the stock length is 302mm; the Ohlins be set at the same until some time reveals what if any are necessary.

The remote spring adjuster knob and mounting should be be unbolted from the for installation. Note the separate and rebound damping adjuster under the reservoir —

After spending some trying to figure out how to fit the Ohlins absorber I was able to do so with a elbow grease. I can tell that making trackside and compression adjustments is going to be a pain in the …, as will height adjustments.

After the shock absorber it was time to the stock exhaust system something lighter that offered less restricted gas flow. Because I’ve told the stock Honda are pretty well designed, I to go with just a slip-on system in order to exploit header design and save money. One of my primary concerns was to an exhaust system with a incorporated for adding an A/F sensor on.

After doing some I decided to try out the KR tuned system, has been well receieved by riders. Above is a comparison of the KR exhaust system and the stock

One nice thing about the KR exhaust is the quality of construction. the actual carbon fiber end cap!

I was happy to find the KR exhaust bolted straight on no fitment issues whatsoever. the bung for the A/F sensor; this com in handy when a Bazzaz management/Traction control unit installed at a later date.

A look at an afternoon’s work. engine covers, shock and exhaust system installed, and the stand and unused wiring It’s starting to come nicely.

Continuing with the the front sprocket was changed from the stock 16 tooth to an 15 tooth sprocket. Note the damping ring on either of the stock sprocket. Although to have, it’s not a necessity by any The sprocket itself is held on by a bolt that only 40 ft lbs of torque to re-install.

Although I a 520 size chain kit for the bike, going to use the stock 530 chain for simply because it’s new and would be a waste to get rid of. Initially the gearing will be set at 15/44 is 16/42), with the rear size changed as needed on the track.

With parts of the Bazzaz Control system starting to in, it’s time to prepare for the Here the O2 sensor is installed in the KR exhaust pipe. This eventually be connected to a Bazzaz Mapping unit.

This shows the engine and airbox the fuel tank removed. #1 references the connector for the left switch pod; one nice of the CBR is that you can remove the entire without any issues other having to start the bike in On the GSXR if the clutch interlock wasn’t connected the ECU would

Circle #2 references where the hose leading from the air flapper valves leads to. If the intake flappers (or removing altogether as I’m doing) you can the long hose leading the upper cowl to this more on this later. #3 references where the TPS (Throttle Sensor) is located.

A Bazzaz will be installed there to ensure full power at RPMs, as the stock ignition is by the factory in the upper rev range.

a view of the left switchpod and stock steering damper.

A of the stock left handlebar to the clip-on that will it. Note that the stock perch has already been to the Woodcraft handlebar. The switchpod and bar-end weight will no be used.

Time to remove the (Pulsed Secondary Air Injection) The purpose of the PAIR system is to fresh air into the exhaust to promote a complete burning off all gases. One problem though is with the PAIR system it’s difficult to get an accurate A/F from the exhaust system, and the system itself is a pain to with when working in the compartment. Since this will be used as a closed-course only, off it goes!

The photo on the shows the top of the airbox cover. the three wire connectors on top of the remove the eight screws the perimeter, unclip the upper rail connector, flip the lid back and voila! The inside of the is revealed.

Notice the metal atop the stock airfilter a good way to gain a little is by removing the screen altogether. grind/cut off the four black nubs holding it on and the screen off.

With the airfilter and stacks removed you can see the bottom of the airbox. Remove the bottom and you can see the PAIR system and related Everything lined in red in the right-hand is going to be removed; the hose up in the center is the crankcase breather and has to in place.

Removing the PAIR is easy. Just remove the aluminum squares on top of the valve held with the 8mm bolts. you’ll find a pair of valves and cages — both pieces. I normally the reed valves apart and retain just reed frames with the rubber in order to ensure a proper with the replacement covers.

the reed valve frames and pre-cut blocker plates the holes. Reinstall the stock with some washers, them to 9 ft lbs, and give the hoses and aluminum squares as Christmas stocking stuffers kids love ’em!

A GRP V4 damper is on its way, so its time to the stock damper. Remove the unclip the wires and damper, and the uncluttered steering head.

USA was kind enough to return my with the cartridge kits and installed. A quick five and the fork legs and clip-ons are put on the

This is the vacuum connector I was to earlier that connects to the rubber hose that along the left side of the and leads to the airduct intake valves; the intake ducts are replaced altogether with carbon fiber units, so no need to retain this connection. Remove the hose the brass vacuum connector above and plug the connector a suitable rubber plug.

always cool to come from a hard day of work and a big brown box left by a bigger truck at your doorstep. In case the box contained something been patiently waiting the race bodywork for the CBR. opening the box I was pleasantly surprised to that the packing job Auctmarts did was with each piece wrapped in both foam and bubble wrap.

Taking fiberglass piece out one by one I inspected to find a paintjob that was then I’d ever The quality of the paintwork was excellent almost too nice for a racebike!

installing the bodywork I decided to get the brakes sorted. First job is to the braking system completely the motorcycle and prepare the calipers for wiring. Here a drill is being used to drill the caliper body and into the top of the pad retaining pin; this allow the pin to be safety wired on.

Also drilled were the for securing the calipers to the fork and the banjo bolts for new brake that are going to be installed.

drilling the bolts the stock lines were removed and a set of ‘Superbike’ Kevlar lines installed. I like that uses a single line the master cylinder versus the dual-line aftermarket setup. that the photo above a ‘rough-fit’ of the brake lines I eventually installed them the shortest line attached to the cylinder.

There are a couple of to changing brake lines; the and foremost is that the stock lines are made of a rubber that expands under heavy braking which the brakes to fade considerably. as you may have guessed, is no good on a where repeated heavy use can be the norm. Another benefit is the stock brake lines are a bit and more complex in design to quality aftermarket lines.

prepping the brakes and bolting the on it was time to perform a ‘dry-run’ of the Auctmarts bodywork to see how well lined up and determine what have to be modified to make it fit Starting with the tailsection I that the leading edge of the piece did not clear the rear lip of the tray. A couple of minutes a Dremel tool and the battery was modified to allow the Auctmarts to slide on perfectly.

I have to say I don’t consider to be a problem at all, as I have yet to any raceglass that fits without a least some modifications to the stock components.

up was fitting the gas tank cover, fairing and front fender. I was happy to find that all the lined up very well, and I to drill holes and install the needed to secure the bodywork. One I observed about the Auctmarts was that the fiberglass was thick and although it’s a little bit then some of the other sets available it appears to be durable.

Next step was to the bodywork to accept frame In this case Woodcraft sliders were installed they take a heck of a and don’t stick out too far, means there’s less of a of the sliders catching on a curb or object and causing the bike to or rip an engine mount apart a crash.

The first step preparing to install a frame is to mount the slider bracket and where it sits against the Once done, take time and pinpoint where the of the frame slider is and then a pilot hole at that The benefit of doing it this way is you can inspect the pilot hole drilling and determine if it is indeed to the frame slider mount; if drill another pilot where it will be centered.

cover the area with tape — this prevent the fiberglass and paint chipping as you drill a hole in it. center a 2 hole saw on the pilot and apply even pressure at a speed with your while making the hole. enough, you’ll have a opening in your bodywork the frame slider will fit with no problems!

Installing the was easy. The dimples in the bodywork up perfectly with the stock screw holes. Using a drill bit, all I had to do was drill the holes and use the stock screws to get the installed.

The undertail is going to some problem solving; Auctmarts provided a cover for the it’s simply an external I’ll have to fabricate a to go between the frame rails for electronic components.

Here’s the first and only major with the bodywork installation into play: the exhaust Not having owned this before I thought a slip-on be adequate for racing, however the connecting pipe is designed in a around manner to provide length for exhaust tuning it considerably lower then a system. This depth be fine with the stock which is completely open on the

However, with an enclosed (which is required in racing for retention) the wound connecting simply didn’t fit. is no fault of Auctmarts, but rather I hadn’t taken into when selecting what to use. As a result, the KR Tuned is going to have to be replaced an alternate system.

When I started installing raceglass ago it was an intimidating process; cutting into perfectly good is not something the average person to do simply because if you screw up, no turning back. One thing learned over the years is by taking my time and dry-fitting in advance, then planning out how I the panels to connect, I would end up something that was functional and secured which looked installed.

Nowadays I find a snap to install raceglass. I’ve used Dzus fasteners with riveted to connect the upper cowling to the The nice thing about these fasteners is that never leave the bodywork, so you have to worry about falling off or getting lost.

And how the bike looks with all of the installed. I have to say I’m happy with the Auctmarts kit and how it out.

After fitting the and positioning the front brake to make sure they rub against it, it’s time to down the banjo bolts and the brake system. Because I latebraking like a mofo tail wagging in the air, I running fluid with a boiling point to help fading; in this case using Motul RBF (Racing Fluid) 660 for the system. The RBF 660 is a race fluid, with higher wet and dry points then even mainstay RBF 600 brake fluid.

Now time to change the levers; I CRG shorty levers to stock because I usually clutch and with two fingers, and the CRG’s it easier to do so while providing a amount of adjustability and control. The of the machining is excellent as well, and they’re shorter then levers they rarely get in a crash.

Next it’s to install a GPR steering damper. is the GPR V4, a quality compact unit a wide range of adjustability. The GPR with nicely CNC machined for both the damper body and arm bracket; in the lower left you can see how the pivot arm bracket installs the stock fuel tank brackets. This ends up bolted to the frame as a single

The GPR install requires that the stem nut be removed with a 41 mm Once the stem nut is removed, the bracket is installed on top of the upper clamp and the steering stem nut is The damper is then bolted on top of bracket, and the pivot arm fits the pivot arm bracket that is to the frame underneath the tank

Overall it’s a nice, design that offers damping adjustability.

Next to do is address the lack of a subframe suitable for mounting electronics; one with the CBR is that once you the stock rear fender, the tray’ underneath the passenger is taken with it — so a has to be made. In this case I a tray using a piece of polycarbonate available from about any home improvement Using a piece of scrap I first designed a mock and then traced this the Lexan.

The Lexan was then cut to with a dremel tool and the were deburred. The nice about Lexan is it’s it was easy to bend the piece and fit it the subframe rails after it to size.

Here’s the final fitment of the before being ziptied to the note how the aluminum bracket at the of the subframe and the cast lip at the rear the piece. Not only will easily support any electronics to be the tray weighs almost and is both incredibly strong and unbreakable.

Now to install the Bazzaz For this project the entire ensemble is being installed, the Fuel Injection/Traction Control/Quickshifter (FI/TC), the Air/Fuel Mapping (AFM), a Z-… (to remove restrictions at the top-end of the rev range) and fuel map / traction control switches. When you first up the box with the FI/TC unit, you help but be amazed at the amount of involved. This isn’t average fuel programmer. )

The thing to do is line up where the modules and wiring harnesses are to sit on the bike. In this case the fuel injector harness is to run along the left side of the and the ignition coil and AFM harnesses are to run along the right side. In to link the harnesses to the Bazzaz on the tray, I enlarged the holes in the of the battery box where the rider tabs go through.

Once the were enlarged and lowered a dremel the wiring harnesses to fit through. The photo on the right how the main injector harness through the hole after it.

Another set of wires to route are for the fuel map switch and traction dial. This requires the airbox be removed for installation left photo; note how the has been removed from the for better airflow). Rather install the switch bracket on a I decided to install it on the upper clamp to provide a little crash protection.

After a hole and using a sheetmetal to install the switch bracket, I ran the underneath the upper triple and GPR bracket and between the airbox and frame rail.

W hile the is removed it’s also to install the Throttle Position (TPS) connector (#1) to the FI/TC module and Z-Bomb. very important to make the FI/TC wire harness (#2) is connected directly to the and the Z-Bomb connector is attached the FI/TC harness and the stock harness connectors (#3). this the airbox can be reinstalled.

Of also is that the Bazzaz (which aren’t very call for a tap connector to be installed on the green neutral sensor The photos on the right show this wire can be found; be not to cut the wire when exposing it the rubber sheath.

The Bazzaz harnesses have connectors for fuel injectors, the Throttle Sensor, Crankshaft sensor, sensor and Neutral sensor with all four ignitions and a quickshifter unit. Plug it all in, and what you’ve got. I the Bazzaz harnesses along the stock wire harness for both a clean install and to the wiring stays in place rubbing and wearing through.

In the right photo you can see where the unit draws power a tap connector installed on the brown and wire leading to the stock connector. A quick turn of the to ‘on’ shows power to both the FI/TC and AFM modules.

installing the FI/TC and AFM modules the is connected to the left rearset, and the wiring is connected to the coil of the FI/TC unit. I was pleased to everything installed perfectly the Woodcraft rearset. Note in this photo the shift arm is up; this is for a GP shift pattern on the

I eventually turned the shift arm for a street shift pattern as I

Now it was time to install a bracket for the Angle Sensor (BAS) with a pair of ram air intake For this build I obtained a CNC machined BAS bracket from which fit the stock fairing and BAS perfectly.

A pair of carbon ram-air tubes were from U.K. company Overall I was pleased with the of the carbon fiber, which almost nothing and offers a smoother airflow to the engine the stock intakes.

Here the BAS has been installed on the stock stay and the ram air tubes are fitted the race glass; the tubes up perfectly with the stock and Auctmarts upper fairing. recommend smearing a dab of grease the lips of the ram air tubes where meet the stock rubber boots to help them fit

One thing I noted about the upper fairing was that the for the air intakes were molded relatively small openings, and the ram air were about a 12mm in diameter where they As a result I used a dremel to remove about a 15mm of from the inside of the fairing at the air This expanded the intake by about 10mm, which increase the amount of airflow the engine.

The final answer for the dilemma was to fit a Jardine RT-5 on the left you can see the difference in the bends of the between the Jardine and KR Tuned and on the right is a comparison of the canisters. I to say I was pleased with the quality of the canister — it seems a durable part, and once the mid-pipe allowed the bellypan to fit

Time for dyno-tuning! To get the fueling in correctly I took the advice of folks and brought the bike to MRP in Glen Burnie, MD ( http://www.mrpmotorsports.com/ ) to get the FI/TC unit dyno-tuned and mapped. MRP did an excellent job of building two one a full-on dry weather map and the other a wet weather map which combined the traction control should the bike to be relatively manageable for races.

MRP’s dynamometer was set up to true rear-wheel horsepower, and several hours of mapping the ended up putting out 152.6 and 75.7 ft lbs torque, which to MRP was a strong showing on their for this bike. However, on other CBR1K’s they’ve I was also told that a Akropovic system would produced an additional 3.5 peak hp and 5 hp, which is something to consider for the if I want additional power. For now the power and torque curves are and I expect it to run strong on the track. a quick clip of the bike on the (right-click, then click

Perfect A/F ratio and a totally power curve — the way I like it.

FEBRUARY 20, 2010

it was time to have the suspension to a proper baseline; this include having the sag set at the front and of the motorcycle and adjusting the rebound and damping for overall balance. proper suspension setup is for having confidence in what the is doing at speed, I brought the to a shop I’ve trusted times before to have set it up the way — Washing Cycle in Washington, NJ. http://www.washingtoncycleworks.com/

Washington Works is a suspension and performance that caters to both and trackday enthusiasts alike; great to a have a shop of caliber in New Jersey where can get just about anything to be properly prepared for a day at the track.

the rear shock is being for damping characteristics after the preload has been set; one of the Ohlins components is that came direct from set up very close to the baseline I needed. I’m anticipating the will have a good, feel once I get it on the track.

having the suspension set up it was time to addressing some of the detail on the bike. First up was finishing the and setting up the preliminary gearing. the brakes, according to the WERA the brake rotor may be modified when racing in Supersport classes.

With this in I decided to try something new, and was getting rid of some unsprung weight from the rear of the The stock rear rotor, perfectly fine in application, is that weight can be lost without detriment to performance. For a as to how often I usually use the rear on my previous racebike I ran the same set of (stock) brake pads my ownership of the bike — three years of trackdays and

Before selling the bike I the pads and found that still looked to be in almost condition. Needless to say, a component I don’t use all too often to occasionally settle the suspension at

That said, because the rotor can be modified it’s a candidate for weight loss. In case I sent the rotor a spare) to Quality Machine in Georgia where they over a pound of weight off CNC machining. This pound of weight is theoretically equal to pounds in the saddle, so it’s a I felt was worth checking out for build.

As you may recall, I previously the front countershaft sprocket the stock 16 tooth to a 15 tooth this has the effect of lowering the gearing, promoting better and closer spacing between To continue this trend, it was now to change the stock rear 42 sprocket with a 44 tooth to set the final gearing baseline.

In case the stock sprocket was with an aluminum piece Vortex Racing, which considerably less then the sprocket even though physically larger and designed to work with the stock 530 chain. Note that from the stock 16/42 to a 15/44 setup does not changing the stock chain

After taking care of the wheel it was time to finish the brake system. Although ran Vesrah brake pads in the for this build I decided to try different. I’ve heard feedback regarding the new EBC EPFA/HH extreme racing brake so I figured I’d give a try on the Honda.

Changing brake is a simple procedure, made when you’re working on new If you do this on used calipers sure the calipers are cleaned (particularly the pistons) with warm soapy water and a before installing the new pads. needs to be done because dust builds up over inside the caliper and clings to the of the pistons; this can cause the to ‘hang up’ and not retract when should to, causing the to drag.

The first thing I do installing new brake pads is to open the pad retainer pins the calipers are still mounted to the this makes it much to loosen them if the pins are to unscrew. After this, the calipers from the forks and unscrew the retaining pins from the calipers.

In the top photo you can see the between the EBC sintered racing pads (on the left) and the stock pads. Prior to installing new remove the backing plates the old brake pads and transfer to the new ones. Then insert the new into the caliper, and reinstall the pins.

Next it’s to secure the retaining pins as for racing. In this case I wired the pins directly to the banjo bolt, ensuring both the pins and banjo are secured properly. When the are safety wired like they can stay in place the next time the brake are changed and don’t have to be with, even when the calipers for wheel changes.

on the list was to install axle for the front forks. I’m a big in using axle sliders; had them prevent what have been considerable damage in the past, and for the minimal I consider them to be cheap towards keeping the forks off the in the event of a crash.

Here are two of axle sliders available for the on the left are axle sliders Tuner Factory X. These appear to be of a decent quality and a threaded aluminum rod and a replacement nut that comes pre-drilled the center to permit installation. On the are a set of axle sliders from Engineering.

I’ve used to Engineering sliders in the past great results, however I for this application they did not with a pre-drilled axle As the stock axle nut does not drilled from Honda, it have to be drilled down the in order to fit these. At this I chose to first install the Factory X sliders to give a try, and will keep the Engineering axle sliders as

FEBRUARY 28, 2010

One thing to when building a clubracing is to also build up a good of spare parts to bring you in the event of a getoff; levers, fairing stays and even a subframe are all things I bring to the to patch the bike up in the event of a In this case I decided to the stock fairing stay as my and put in its place a Motobrackets fairing In the photo above the Motobrackets is on the left with the stock on the right.

Swapping them is very all you have to do is unplug the wire from the rear of the instrument undo the three screws hold the panel onto the bracket an unscrew the two 12 mm bolts connect the stock bracket on the After putting the Motobrackets in its place transfer over the rubber grommets from the fairing stay which the instrument panel from One good thing about the part is that it costs then half of the price of the OEM yet is essentially identical.

The next to is to install some cheap Few things are as lousy as your day to an end because of a punctured radiator. Due to the carried on the track any debris makes its way past the front and into the front fairing has the chance of putting a hole in the To keep this from I fabricate homemade radiator and fit them to any bikes I take to the

The guard is very easy to go to any home hardware store and up a sheet of 1/4 wire mesh. a very pliable material easy to cut and work with. the radiator dimensions around at the bottom and sides and mark on the mesh, allowing an extra of material all around.

Cut the mesh and the edges over to prevent poked with the cut wiring.

. use a rubber mallet to fold the edges completely. In the lower photo you can see the finished product. the mesh guard over the with zip ties and voila! you’re done.

Not only is an inexpensive mod, it’s very effective as I’ve stones and other debris previous guards I’ve that could easily punctured the radiator had they not in place.

After fitting a sized rear tire I that the clearance between the and the plastic swingarm fender was a couple of millimeters; this is the fender was designed for the stock sized tire which is in height. As a result I trimmed 3/4 of an inch from the end of the stock in order to provide sufficient This is very easy to do a straight edge and a dremel — after marking the and cutting the fender down, sand the rough edge some 220 grit sandpaper and look factory smooth in no

Next up is to flush out the cooling completely and replace the glycol with distilled water. Not is this required for racing Glycol is very slick, can serious crashes when on the track and is a huge headache to up), but it’s also I’d recommend anyone do taking their bike to the

One thing I noticed about the of the Honda is that the engineers had a sense of humor when the coolant overflow bottle. located between the engine and the which requires that you the swingarm from the motorcycle in to access the bottle for removal. because I wanted to empty the from the bottle I needed to it, but I wasn’t about to go through the of removing the swingarm for this so I found an easier way around it.

to flush the coolant overflow while it’s still on the disconnect the coolant overflow from the top of the radiator next to the cap (the small hose in the picture above) and put it in a suitable Then use a compressor to blow air bottle cap opening of the overflow This forces the antifreeze out of the through the overflow line your container.

The fill the with distilled water and do it to ensure all of the antifreeze has been out.

The continue the process, the drain plug from the pump on the lower left of the engine and drain all the coolant the system. I usually also the lowest most radiator to ensure everything is emptied. flush the cooling system fresh water, filling it in the opening and allowing it to drain the bottom hose.

Once all of the has been rinsed out, the drain bolt back in the pump, reconnect the hose and the system with approximately 3 of distilled water.

Now it’s to finish safety wiring. wiring may seem like an process if you’ve never it before, but it’s actually easy to do. I’ve found the best way to go about it is to have to a drill press and a selection of 3/32 carbide drill

Inspect the bolts while still on the motorcycle to note ones need to be wired, and them with a felt pen the face where the holes line up once the bolts are and torqued down. Remove bolt one by one, drill the through (using even at a slow speed along a little oil to lubricate the drill bit if and then clean any metal off. Then reinstall the using the correct torque Locktite where necessary.

that the concept behind wiring is to ensure that and the parts they’re holding secure on the motorcycle. For racing it is generally required that with liquid behind it be this includes any fill drain plugs/bolts, engine plugs and the oil filter.

For the CBR, I safety wired the large securing the oil cooler to the engine. that some organizations the galley plugs to be secured silicone in lieu of safety and that the oil filter can be easily with a pipe clamp. forget to safety wire the brake pad pin(s) as well.


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