General Honda Scooter Information

4 Янв 2015 | Author: | Комментарии к записи General Honda Scooter Information отключены
Honda ANF 125

Problems particular to Honda

Maintenance and tuneup how to — find an answer on this The general maintenance page step by step procedures and to general scooter problems.

80 exhaust pipe cracking

The design on this pipe is poor. The pipe will near the exhaust port on the where the pipe bends. It can be or brazed with a little

If I was going to do this, I’d the joint by welding on some material.

Weak centerstand on the 125/150’s

These scooters a poorly designed centerstand H shaped stand that the rear wheel off the ground) and the is too soft around the top of the centerstand and at the joint. The main supports on the under the engine are weak, and a while they tend to They will especially to bend if you sit on the scooter while on the centerstand. There is no easy

You’ll have to remove the and probably cut and re-weld the supports. If I was through this much I’d definitely beef up the by welding on some more

Retractable headlight on the Elite 125 and 150

The pop-up headlight is generally but after

15 years it may stop The headlight has a fairly complex There is the limit switch and timer and the headlight motor and relay In my experience the most problems are a bad timer or bad motor.

The is in the black box next to the headlight. The is suprisingly small — the type you get in a model set. are several plastic gears in the some of which wear out time.

You can test the motor by it out of the case and applying 12V to the terminals.

125/150/250/Helix starter doesn’t

Can’t get your starter to A likely cause is a misadjusted brake switch. The front switch very rarely has When you depress the rear the rear brake switch when the brake light on. It also completes a connection in the circuit.

Over time, the wire to the can stretch. Then one of two things 1) the brake light doesn’t 2) the scooter doesn’t start. The is easy to adjust.

It is under the on the left hand side. You to remove the center cover in of the engine and the floorboard to get to it. It’s possible to look under the and you should see it, but access can be pretty You will want to adjust the light switch so that the is longer.

Do this by moving the knurled ring in a clockwise It should only take 1/2 — 1 turn to get things again.

The problem could be due to a gummed up switch. See this for more info. Other causes are a … battery, bad solenoid, or a bad starter.

Elite engine swap

The Elite 125 in 1984) and the Elite 150 Deluxe in 1985-1986) are virtually identical. In the ’85 and the ’87 Elite look different, but underneath the body panels they are the same as the other models mentioned. The engines will just fine, which can you a bit of a performance boost if you’re from the 125 — 150.

it’s even possible to in an Elite 250 engine. You’ll to remove the centerstand and make other minor changes.

50/80/125/150/250 speedometer screw

In order to remove the speedometer at the front wheel, you need to this screw (Elite 250 shown). The problem is that usually stuck in there tight. It’s very to remove with a normal The screwdriver usually rounds off the head. Then then way to get it out is with a screw extractor.

The of the screw combined with the phillps design leads to the By far the best way to remove the screw is a hand impact or electric wrench. This works about 95% of the time.

If the screw strips you’ll to use a screw extractor to get it out.

80/125/150/250 spark plug threading

Unfortunately, it’s easy to get the spark plug when you put it in. The soft aluminum combined with the funny and rather poor access are to Be VERY careful that you cross thread the plug. be able to tell because it be difficult to screw in the spark

When it’s threaded it will screw in with a light amount of hand Final tightening can be done a ratchet.

Elite 125/150/250 intake manifold cracking

The and metal intake manifold the carburetor and the cylinder head to develop cracks over allowing air to get in. This results in a condition (too much air for the of fuel). Once the manifold it will need to be replaced. The of this joint is not the best. The more or less hangs off of manifold.

There is no support. A good cure (which did to the Helix) is to add a strip of metal as a The support would go between the and the cylinder head.

Elite 80 oil change

I am separating the Elite 80 the bigger scooters because it has a drain plug location. The plug is on the lower left side of the engine in the red circle. It is not under the engine like the scooters. There is a plug the engine, that is often for the drain plug. This contains the cam chain tensioner

If you unscrew this plug, a bit of oil come out. This it seem like it could be the plug. If you put the parts back in the order (the small rod goes in first and then the and screw the bolt back in, is no harm done. The harm can if for some reason you start the with this bolt or if you reassemble the parts incorrectly.

The cam chain can (and probably slip of its sprockets leading to and misadjusted valve timing. If occurs, you will have to the engine to check for damage and any broken or damaged parts.

(125, 150, 250) oil changes

These four scooters need to have oil changes. The Elite 50’s most of the Honda 50cc are two …. Their engine oil is so you never have to change it.

the big Yamaha Rivas, unfortunately the do not have an oil filter. They a metal mesh screen should be cleaned when the oil. This is located on the left side of the engine. The 250 has a very soft 17mm cap the screen.

Be very careful use good quality tools) removing this cap or you’ll off the edges. The Elite 125 and the Elite 150 a better designed 24mm cap in the red Drain the oil from the bottom plug.

Refill with a quality synthetic oil (I use Mobil-1 or synthetic) or a great quality oil (Castrol GTX, Honda oil, Kendall).

Elite oil light

The oil light is not actually a It is a small wheel (colored and red), which is hooked by a few to the odometer. As the odometer turns a mile interval, the gears the wheel, so that it goes green to red. This is not an of a problem. It only servers to you that it’s time to the oil.

You should change oil at least every 1000 See the Maintenance Information section for your model scooter. are details on how to change the oil on each page.

After the oil change, push your key into the rectangular shaped recess to the wheel.

Elite 150/250 muffler/rear removal (use similar for the other scooters)

This is not difficult. Remove the plastic hand engine cover. remove the two 12mm nuts are 10mm on the Elite 150) at the manifold. Then remove the three 12mm bolts on the

For the CH150 muffler. the 10mm are circled in green and the 12mm are circled in red (the two green on the top right are for the exhaust manifold You want to remove the two nuts because you don’t want the hanging from the tip of the exhaust It will put a lot of stress on the tip of the exhaust and the exhaust port. Remove the and lay it aside.

There will be an inside the exhaust port, of copper or a ceramic type wedged in between two metal This O-ring should be with a new one so that you’ll a good seal when you the pipe. If you really want, you can re-use the copper O-ring if you it first.

Heat it up with a torch until it’s red then drop it in a pan of water. process will soften it so it can be re-used. This only if the O-ring is copper. [ technical — It turns out the non ferrous like copper and brass do no the same way that steel when cooled rapidly.

steel becomes harder cooled rapidly, these metals are virtually unaffected. You can ‘em up and drop them in water no ill effects. Water cooling is the method when doing annealing because it prevents

To remove the rear wheel, the two 12mm bolts holding the and remove the shock. Remove the bolt holding the fender Next, remove the 24mm nut on the An easy way to do this is with an driver.

If you don’t have just use a 24mm socket/ratchet or a box end wrench (a 15/16 socket also work, but it might be a small). Depress the rear pedal with your foot and give the ratchet or a wap with a rubber mallet or piece of 2 X 4. It may be difficult to remove the nut you use this type of impact especially if the nut is on there really When reinstalling, torque the nut to 60-65 ft-lbs, and torque the bolts on the muffler to 20-24

Elite 125, 150 deluxe and 250 battery

The digital clock on scooters is powered by a small battery. The battery is type SR44, or 357 silver oxide of these are the same battery). On the 125/150, there is a small on the left hand side of the cluster.

This grill is a just pulls of — get you beneath one side and pry it off. The is underneath. On the Elite 250, the is under a small cover on the of the speedometer. Slide the cover and pry it up.

use a small #1 phillips screwdriver to the tiny screws. Carefully the parts beneath to get to the battery.

125, Elite 80/125/150/250, bystarter (choke)

These use an electric choke. It’s not a choke, in the sense that it choke off the flow of air (and the fuel/air ratio richer). It is a that shuts off the flow of air to the circuit as the scooter warms up. The is a small, black cylindrical with two wires coming out of it. the engine is running, 12V are applied to wires.

Over about 10 or so, the bystarter warms up as the enging up. There is some wax in the bystarter it or not) that is heated by a heater. It expands, and extends the needle about 1/8.

is enough to close off the starting

After a number of years, the builds up electrical resistance and it do its job any more. A new bystarter has a resistance of 4 ohms. When resistance to over 10 ohms, it should be

To check for proper bystarter There is a complex test in the manual that can be performed, but is a simple test that almost as well. Remove the and examine it. Are the wires in good Is the needle in good shape? looks broken?

Hook up a 12V to the two wires. After about 10 the bystarter should become and extend the needle 1/8 or so. Measure it a pair of verneer calipers or you have handy.

If it extends it’s probably ok. The only way to tell if it is bad is to do the full test as in the service manual. This removing the carb and leaving the attached. Draw a vacuum in the circuit outlet.

There be little resistance when the is cold and plenty of resistance the bystarter has been heated up. A bad will either not expand or not contract properly. Finding can be difficult.

The Elite 125 150 bystarters can be with one from a ’87 150. Honda still to be making these. The cost is $65.

Replacements for the Elite 250 can be obtained by ordering a Honda part (they essentially the same engine). The Elite 80, and Elite 250 bystarters are not interchangeable, they are different lengths.

Honda ANF 125
Honda ANF 125
Honda ANF 125
Honda ANF 125
Honda ANF 125


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