Timberwoof-s Honda CB-1 Page

22 Мар 2015 | Author: | Комментарии к записи Timberwoof-s Honda CB-1 Page отключены
Honda CB-1

Wrenching the CB-1

The CB-1’s kit contains just about you need to do minor maintenance on the

8-, 10-, 12-, 14- and 24mm

three Allen wrenches

plug wrench

hook to adjust rear shock


It helps to add one of those screwdrivers with the double-ended

I also keep a pair of exam gloves in the toolkit: works better to keep hands clean while working on the bike.

(When done with them, the right glove by its cuff, it off, and hold it in your hand. Then, with right hand, grab the of the left glove, pull it and let it turn inside-out with the glove inside it. You’re with an inside out glove another glove in it and all the grease on the .) Engine The CB1 is running 8500 at 75 mph.

Even though the is 13500, the mechanic that I had it out seems to think that periods at this speed eat up the motor. I tend to disagree, It’s only at 60% capacity at speed.

What’s your others’) opinion on this?

If you the … of this little you’ll see that it’s at the same speed up and down the as as bigger, slower engines. If you are to do a lot of freeway riding, you should get cooler plugs (NGK for extended high-speed running, NGK standard).

Gasoline I run Regular (87 Octane) in my CB-1. I’ve never it knock or ping, so I don’t see the to waste money on higher-octane Oil

Oil is crucial to any motorcycle: I’m mine every 2500 filter every other As long as it’s neither black sludge when it out nor brand-new golden honey, the is right. (Don’t want to it too often because that’s a of money.) The clutch and transmission the engine oil.

Drive I wouldn’t mess with the ratios. The Honda engineers their butts off to find the ratios. Make it too tall and you have as much torque for or climbing hills.

Make it too and it will go like a bat out of hell but be too to the top end on the freeway.

To test the chain put the CB-1 on its sidestand and shift it neutral. Measure the free halfway between the sprockets on the chain run. That’s where the swingarm flattens

Put the 24mm wrench over the nut on the right side of the rear so the wrench extends straight The tool kit contains a piece of pipe. Slip that the end of the wrench and stand on it with one that should loosen it up.

At the end of the trailing arms are a single with two nuts each. Put a wrench over the big nut and a 12mm the small one. Open the nut and back it off just a few turns. the 14mm nuts both in the direction and the same amount at a

When the chain is close to the tension, small changes in the nut large changes in chain so only turn the nuts at a time between measurements. The play should be between 15 and (5/8 to 1 inch).

While at it, make sure the back is aligned properly. Place a on the rear sprocket so that it is to parallel with the chain. By the right nut, adjust the wheel so that the distance the strait-edge to the chain is the same at the and the back.

As a final check, sit on the lean over, and test the tension. It will tighten up, but it not get too tight now. If, when the bike around, you hear a lot of noise or feel a lot of chain then the chain is too tight.

If the rider is not very heavy, the probably doesn’t need a lot of preload on the rear shock. worthwhile experimenting with the reducing it will do two things. it will make for a cushier over interstate superslabs.

it will lower the ride a tad, perhaps the same that smaller tires and probably without upsetting the

Remove the seat. Take the from the tool kit that has an C-shaped end and slip the flattened over its other end. Use the spanner you just made to a different position on the rear I weigh 125# and I’ve got set at 3. It was at 5 when I got it.

Make sure the tires are at the pressure. If it feels squirmy pavement grooves, add a psi at a time it goes away.


The recommended low profile tires (to the bike so my girlfriend’s feet can flat on the the ground) and then on a new front and rear chain to gear it up and even overcompensate. Any on this? I won’t do it for a while as I am not rich, and the tires on it are almost

The CB-1 is finicky with selection and different riders about different tires. I Metzeler ME33 in front, in back, and they’re a bit too big: makes it really sensitive to tire pressure. The standard size is 110/70-17 54H; the rear is 140/70-17 66H.

When the rubber hoses get they expand when you the brakes. This wastes and reduces brake feel. So I recommend a steel-braided brake for the front brakes. That make the bike stop and with better feel: the lever is firmer and not at all spongy.

yet, since you won’t so much effort expanding the brake hose, it takes squeeze to stop the bike. When I bought my CB-1 in of 1996 it had the factory original Seven- or eight-year-old batteries don’t hold a charge well. I bought the cheap battery to replace it and had to replace within a year.

But the folks where I got it were about it. They pro-rated the of the battery against the warranty and that to the expensive Yuasa. one, with careful and an occasional night on the charger, has no sign of giving up.

If I had a garage to my motorcycle in, I’d give it a plug for the battery and just it in to a battery tender whenever it was at

Here are some voltage I made after the bike been ridden for about a

12.8V ignition off.

ignition on.

9.5V while

There is a voltage below the engine will just not Either the engine is just over too slowly or the ignition working voltage can’t a spark, but once you’re that point, the only is a push-start or a jump-start. If you have a hill, you can push-start the bike on a battery. just make you don’t letthe engine at the bottom of the hill!

Wind I got my CB-1, it had a Tsunami fairing. I it once to see what the bike and rides like without it and put it right back on. A few months I got the bike, I dropped it and broke the I replaced it with a Lockhart-Philips fairing.

It’s cheap and required cutting to make it fit, but it look too hideous and it works than nothing.

If you want to put an LP on your CB-1, be prepared for corrective surgery. You have to cut a for the turn signal stalks and clearance for the front brake reservoir and the choke.

The CB-1 only 375 lbs dry. With and a rider, that’s about 550 The bike is thus sensitive to winds. but don’t worry. On the this is not a problem.

Just get a good racer’s tuck, up on the handle bars, and let the bike how it wants to. Gusts will you around a bit, but if you stay in the of your lane and keep the bike will do the right There’s actually an advantage to cagers seem to notice you’re weaving about all the place, so they give you room. Grooved Pavement, Tracks, and other Irritations any motorcycle, the CB-1 is sensitive to traps.

But its tires are wide that grooved pavement, tracks, and grilles over openings aren’t much of a On groovy pavement, do the same as for wind: loosen your on the handlebars. Train tracks run along the pavement, as the Muni do in San Francisco, aren’t the deadly they are for bicycles. Do try to avoid in wet weather, but don’t be paranoid it.

Easy Modifications The taillight is back about 3 inches by a bracket under the rear Remove the seat, unbolt the and take that bracket The taillight fits snug in and looks much better. are, however, two drawbacks. the reflectors on the side of the taillight are now hidden by the skirt.

Second, the license plate is not as well. You can fix the second problem by the license plate directly to the

In this picture you can see the taillight into the rear cowl. I remounted the license plate on the rear fender right the taillight and added another light below that. The stripes on the front fork and the trailing link are reflective from a marine supply

They and the license plate are here by the flash from the Handgrips The CB-1 has 41mm tubes, which easily aftermarket clip-on handlebars. For a I tried Lockhart-Philips clip-ons. are lower and put you in a deeper crouch, but you end up more strain in the rest of body.

I have photographs of and LP clip-ons.

Honda CB-1

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