Eiko Clear Vision Supreme wtih Solex™ and other headlight bulbs: What…

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Eiko Clear Vision with Solex™ and other bulbs:

What works and doesn’t

by Daniel Stern. to acarplace.com.

This is an article a particular brand of headlight — Eiko Clear Vision with SoLux™ Technology before we get there, some

Not too long ago, the word used, abused, and misused in the of automotive lighting was “Xenon.” marketeer slapped “Xenon” on the in hopes it would distract you out of the high price (and short life) of the bulbs. facts (such as all halogen containing some xenon gas in fill mix) didn’t what was important was capitalizing on a association with the high-intensity popularly called “Xenon”headlamps were new at the time.

But HID headlamps new any more; LED headlamps are the latest new and there’s no easy way to hook a line effectively from bulbs to LED headlamps. So what’s the new of the day? Why, it’s Today’s marketeers feel as as they can work the magic into the conversation, you’ll to believe they’ve got something something different, something something certainly worth extra money.

And once spent the extra money, the effect (“Of course my runs better and my car gets mileage; I just spent $50 on a of Slick-50!”) pretty much you’ll crow to all your about how much better headlights work with the new It’s not your fault, not being stupid, you’re being human. And the marketeers are marketeers, exploiting the idiosyncrasies of how the mind works.

So everything’s as a “technology”, whether it merits description or not. Mostly I can say I’m going to “deploy surfactant and hemmed-microfiber absorptive to take my fenestral visual to the next level,” which all cutting-edge and certainly worth but all it means in the real world is I’m going to clean my with soapy water and a Much less …, but if you can’t dazzle ’em brilliance, baffle ’em BS and listen to the cash register

And so it is with most headlight marketed as an upgrade, especially “can’t dazzle ’em brilliance” part. The Eiko for example, have made a business for themselves selling household, automotive, and technical bulbs under an increasing of product names. One of those is “Solux.” That’s the name uses for their bulbs blue glass to tint the towards a bluer (colder) color.

It doesn’t make the “whiter” or “brighter”, it just it slightly towards blue.

all it is: blue glass bulbs, up as “Clear Vision Supreme with SoLux™ Technology”. Is a color selection really a No, it’s just a glass selection.

And it can be a legitimate one in certain galleries and retail stores, for where a particular artwork or of merchandise looks best light of a particular shade.

But not for the of seeing while driving at Any bulb that has a blue or tint to the glass and claims to “brighter” and “whiter” light does neither, and that no matter how much the marketeers talk about “technology” (or to natural daylight” or “high temperature” or “high kelvin or any of the other handwaving language use together with Photoshopped purporting to show a wholly “improvement” from using bulbs).

The laws of physics allow such claims to be Fact is, when you put a colored in the system, you’re blocking light that would the road if it were travelling clear glass.

That’s how work: they filter. is no such thing as a filter adds light into the a filter can only take away from the beam. The light appearance is a result of filtration.

Some people it more appealing, and many experience the illusion of “improved” from it, but that’s all it isan

The human visual system is a judge of its own performance; it’s easy to create the feeling of able to see much better or than we actually can. In the altered (tinted) light “whiter light” bulbs not help you see better under any and particularly in rain, fog, or it’s much worse. The of “better” lighting is dangerous in fact your headlamps’ safety performance is degraded.

And as a whammy, adding insult to the blue-glass “extra white” have a short lifespan the filaments must be overdriven to get minimum legal levels of through the tinted glass.

So no, what you need for better and seeing at night isn’t “whiter” light, it’s light, properly focused and where it’s supposed to go.

And brings us to the next point: bulb quality. Bulb matters! The filaments must be precisely where they’re to be, and they must be exactly the size and shape.

Any tiny or misplacement is greatly magnified by the optics (which are designed to at a properly-manufactured filament), and the result of a bulb manufactured with lax control is a substantial reduction in focus and safety performance the headlamps.

It’s a bothersome of life in today’s global that we can no longer buy a lot of parts and made in countries we’d to buy them from; often we are by lack of option to buy products in countries that have a for poor qualityand toxic and poisonous toys for kids, and food, and toasters that into flame, but I digress. that is not (yet?) the case in bulbs.

Unfortunately, you can’t bad bulbs by simply sticking to manufacturers; all the makers, even the ones, have found a lot of cash to be made pushing “extra white” bulbs and your headlights as a fashion rather than as the life-safety they are. Sylvania Star/Ultra, and ZXE, Philips Vision and BlueVision, PIAA, Wagner TruView, GE Night Sport. it doesn’t make any whose name is on the package or how verbiage there is about the involvedall of these are the same white” scam. If you take the to read the fine print in the made for the various “whiter bulbs, you’ll find not quite being lied to, but also not quite being the truth, either; at least one bases its claims of such-and-such more light from “ultra’ bulbs on a comparison not a new standard bulb, but with a aged standard bulb or one is not being fed full voltage.

So it pays (not just in performance but in dollars as well) to be picky about the bulbs you The top performers in the American market are Xtreme Power (not not NightGuide) and GE Night Hawk (not Night Hawk These can be tough to find but they’re easy to find on

The GE Night Hawk sealed are the only ones worth for example, and the Night Hawk 9004NHP is the only bulb makes 9004 headlamps (an poor system) passably at night.

“But wait,” you “What about that ring I see at the tip of the Night Hawk or Xtreme Power bulb? I you said no blue glass!” a very reasonable question and the is not intuitive.

Each headlight type has a Federally- or internationally-regulated specification, to make sure headlamps designed for use with any bulb type (9004, H7, whatever) will give legal performance no matter brand of (legal) bulb is The specifications for output are given as a value and a tolerance range, ±15% (though the actual varies by bulb type). a very wide range.

For a 9006 bulb has a specification of lumens ±15%, which a 9006 bulb can produce from 851 to 1149 lumens and be a total range of 30%.

The idea behind the tolerance is to allow for the variance that with mass production, but makers have enough over their manufacturing to be able to consistently make that are near the high near the low end, or right in the of the specification. It’s not that set out to make a bulb that just the minimum legal of light, it’s that may be other priorities at work, as having an extra-long bulb or having “extra white” color by means of tinted of which mean trading off performance to achieve that goal.

Now back to that ring: when headlight are tested for compliance with the or international standard, they’re in a device called an integrating which measures all the light from the bulb in all directions. bulbs radiate light in all so this is the right way to measure output.

That blue is up at the forward end of the bulb, and when the is in a headlamp there’s no useful that travels through forward portion of the glass; too far forward for light to travel direction and still hit the reflector. The ring is there on extra performance bulbs to reduce the amount of light emitted by the to just under the legal while much more than from a regular travels through the clear, part of the glass to the lamp and from there to the lens and out on to the

It’s a neat trick; not does it allow top performance the headlamps but it also gives the a styling element to talk up (a one; the blue ring a blue glint at certain when you view the headlamps, but tint/filter the light within the It also proves the point blue glass blocking If that blue glass just a ring at the tip of the bulb, if the whole bulb capsule, no how light the blue tint be, it’s stealing light you.

But that still leaves us the question of what to do about the of light from our headlamps. we have to accept that headlights will never like HIDs or LEDs. different technologies (hey,

The word can be used properly!); generate light in fundamentally ways, and trying to make one like the other is futile.

doesn’t mean you have to put up brownish, dingy-looking light. the headlight bulbs is the wrong way to with it because it just the symptom, so what’s the right Fix the problem! It’s a result of bulbs, endemic to many because of underspecified headlight

Thin headlight wires voltage drop in the circuit, starves the bulbs. Bulb doesn’t drop in a linear, 1:1 with voltage drop. The is exponential to the power 3.4, so a minor 8% voltage drop you a full 25% of the light you should be from your headlights, and filament bulb color is dependent on the voltage they (think about the dimmer in dining room). you get brown

There are two ways to address the The most proper way to do it is to install relays and good, large-gauge as described here and at allpar.com .

way is to install lower-wattage bulbs. with me here; this as crazy as it might seem. The the bulb wattage, the less it exerts on the headlamp circuit, and so the effect from the inadequacy of the circuit. A circuit that may 8% voltage drop with bulbs might show 4% drop with low-wattage cutting the light loss 25% down to a much less 13%.

Still not ideal, but less awful. This of bulb is available from (EcoVision) and Sylvania (EcoBright). use the same techniques as the legitimate bulbs listed above, but take an approach at the other end of the instead of maximizing light at the maximum allowable wattage, shoot for (and achieve) at nominal output, usually better, at the minimum possible

It’s a neat trick, and it Real-world headlight performance on a with a marginal headlamp is often better with the bulbs than with or high-performance bulbs.

And since on the topic of bulb ”upgrades” really aren’t:

1. Bulbs a power rating (wattage) than stock are not only and dangerous, but are completely counterproductive; greatly aggravate the root of inadequate wiring.

2. ”HID in halogen-bulb headlamps or fog/auxiliary (any kit, any lamp, any no matter whether it’s a truck, motorcycle, etc.) do not safely or effectively. which is why are illegal.

Finally, your must be properly made the aftermarket ”crash part” are junk), in good condition (if the are clouded up, polishing will the need to replace them. but all it will do), and aimed .

With headlamps in good fed properly by a good wiring equipped with bulbs based on science and facts than on marketeering baloney, and correctly, your nighttime will be a great deal and safer no matter how good or bad the design is on your particular

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