Morini race bike motositaliana

17 Май 2015 | Author: | Комментарии к записи Morini race bike motositaliana отключены
Morini New York 500

Morini race bike

OK. The is to build a cheap race and compete in the CAV (Andalusian classic under series). I decided on a Morini a friend gave me a 3 1/2 sport had been sitting in  a friends for between 9 and 15 years. The motor was but freed off after a bit of rocking and forth in gear. The tank has through underneath and all the wheel have seen better

  The picture above is how it looked I took it out of the van at my house.

I have thinking about using a 501 (from the new york), but they are 507cc, so would push me in to the class and I would be competing 1000cc guzzi’s, bmw’s and a couple of So I have started looking in to the cc’s down to sub 500.

The 500 Morini’s where actually 478cc +/- (I can’t remember the number ), but the 501 bottom end is stronger, you have swapped the timing bush for a roller bearing. So how putting the 500 barrels and pistons on to the 501 end. Not impossible, but needs about.

The problem is that the diameter of the spigot (the bit of that sticks out the bottom of the part of the barrel and locates in the case mouth) is about 2mm on the 500 than it is on the 501. This sound like a big deal, but is. with the 2mm gap you lose the rigidity of the fit and this makes the whole weaker with the added of potential barrel movement at rev’s.

There was also the Second hand barrels and for the 500 from NLM (the only that had them)came in at 136 GBP plus vat and (EEKK), per cylinder and they need a new set of rings, which are at the moment.

So the plan is to prepare a 350 with the parts I have and it a flow job. I am pretty that the 3 1/2 motor is a sport, so I a lumpy cam and if I can lay my hands on some 500 I will have the bigger as well and can run the 28mm dellorto’s that I had bored to 30mm.

  This put me at a disadvantage as the other bikes all more cc’s than me, but the will hopefully weigh in at 120kg, which is a good bit than most of the bikes out I will then prepare a end and hope that a set of barrels up at a reasonable price and that for said barrels become again.

The braking department has been sorted. I will be the single disc set up, but will be a 300mm disc that less than the original(I post the weights when I get the disc back from the The Grimeca caliper hasn’t been yet, but I suspect it has seen days, so will be replaced a FZR caliper (if the regs allow it.

I’m awaiting the definitive set of regs for the year) and if I can’t use the FZR set up I use a FZ750 caliper(because I have of them) and they are only piston, which seems to be the for classic race bikes.

Well I managed to get out in the shed for a day over the weekend and started a Dart bottom end that I up along with a 350 cc Kangaroo. All well until I came to the castellated nut off of the oil pump worm on end of the crank, someone had already it a bit of a chiseling, so the correct tool is out of the after attacking it a number of with various hammers and I gave up, as I didn’t want to the thread and I wasnt entirely that it wasn’t a left thread. ho-hum.

I started at the frame (I took the engine out week and removed the forks to see if Guzzi V50 ones would fit, did but where about 25mm and I want to raise the bike up to it more ground clearance so them out again), but it was raining I had pulled in the Kangaroo I had just There was very little to move about, as you can see from the The 3 1/2 frame is behind the Kangaroo and in of the Guzzi engine.

So I decided to get on the lathe and do a lightening of pieces and cleaning up of surfaces.

First up was the alternator. As you can see the picture, I machined off the starter and am very pleased with the I used the scabbiest one I have in case it all went pear-shaped.

But it clean up nicely I think.

made up some alloy rests and started trying to the face of the primary drive that sits behind the This was difficult as my lathe is small and had to cut the angle by eye.  I this for a while, but gave up I snapped the second tip on the tool.

So be taking it to a local engineer a 3 phase big lathe.


weekend I managed to get out in to the bike a fair amount and apart a couple of hours of dithering I have made some

The dither took hold I hadn’t made a list of all important when under a project like this, but seems to get forgotten or put off until too late. In the end I just grabbed the tank, angle grinder and and using an old superdream tank as a donor, hacking all the rusty bits out of the of the Morini tank. As you can see it does a certain lace curtain quality isn’t conducive to holding

There was also a sizable of filler on one side that I with a screw driver and There must have about a kilo of dried and once it was removed there was a dent that needed out. So while I was chopping out the I also chopped a large of good metal out to gain to the affected area and regain of the original capacity of the tank.

that it was just fabricating of superdream tank to fit the lacey parts of the Morini It doesn’t look perfect but enough. At the end of the day it’s going to get up a race track a good few if my usual form is to be maintained.

the tank was finished I decided to out the look of the bike and give some motivation to get the seat fitted and all the ancillary bits stuck on. I thought long and hard the tracks that we will be at next year and have to the conclusion that I will set the up with clip-ons and leave the long enough for some cross bars.

My thinking is that some of the pretty tight, like Blanco, and they favour the with normal/MX bars as you can get leverage and keep better through the corners. But they race at Jerez, which is a big with only a couple of corners and lets face it the going to be flat-out through most of the So I want to be tucked down clip-ons and a fairing.

So I am going to fit a track seat unit I had kicking about for a couple of and I also have some scabby old fairings that I will at at a later date. is a preview of Frankensteins Morini. Pass me the will you Igor.

Next up is to the sport motor and use the cam with bottom end, which I think has covered many as it is in as new condition. As soon as I the heads off of the sport I realised I will have to look in one of the motors for barrels and pistons, as at the front pot has seen better

OK. move on to the clutch. as soon as the came off I realised that I may to have a chat with the with the angle grinder and a disc. all the clutch spring are rusted on to their respective and the factory tool isn’t moving This picture was taken I had wire brushed the worst of the off, scrapped all the dust and out of the case and sprayed lots of all over it.

Out  with the and drift. The clutch screws my efforts to unscrew them and at the mole grips as they from the few millimetres of protruding screw and leave a blood on the flesh of my hand. Bugger.

I the screws to marinate in WD40 and for the fridge for a medicinal beer.


As you probably noticed, I haven’t anything for a while. This is we have had a … in the family and had to come to the UK for the …. I did quite a bit of on the heads before I left and give you a full blow-by-blow account of when i get back to sunny Espana.

I also say that I have enjoyed the that we have had here in but will be glad to get back to the warmth of Andalusia.


a few hours trying to coax the spring nuts to loosen I that it just wasn’t to happen with out the help of my angle grinder. A few of the studs the nuts are on had come un welded the back of the clutch centre and spinning freely.

So I cut in at a shallow angle and to cut the top off of the mushroom shaped nuts and the spring from underneath and, no small amount of difficulty, the clutch plates, which an uncanny resemblance to artifacts that been retrieved from an ship wreck. But they be wasted as I will turn in to a clutch holding tool.

I found that the clutch was also reluctant to part from the shaft, so fabricated from an old (and distorted) outer plate.  By bolting it to the centre with the mushroom and some large washers you can wind in the centre allen and pull off the centre.

Then it was a of removing all the other bits and which was very simple compared to the and split the cases. I was a little about the state of the cam, but inspection it was found to be in very condition. I can’t find the “S” is supposed to be stamped on the cam centre, but read that they are very faint or non-existent.

I compared it to the “M” cam and the “S” cam has a more radical

I then attacked the extremely clutch cover case from the with a rotary wire brush on my and was surprised to find that the paint that is stuck to the can be removed pretty easily. didn’t get a picture of it before I but here it is after a savaging the drill.

Next up are the cylinder I have had a … of luck on score. When I purchased the bottom end  along the Kangaroo there was a cylinder along with some and ends. The head is (I assume) a head as it has the larger valves, but was only one of them.

I then the heads from the Kangaroo with the sport heads them all to the tuning area/kitchen have a very understanding

There I measured the valves and that the previous owner had one of the Dart heads to the Kangaroo. was a pleasant surprise, as I thought i would have to use a the smaller valve heads or, forbid, buy another Dart

Once the valves where out of the it was found that the guides in good condition. The Morini already have well designed so it is just a case of cleaning up the marks and blending in any steps are at the back of the seats or on the intake I also found on the internet a for an alleged factory exhaust system I will copy and see how it performs.

The diameter of the pipe is 27mm and I also enlarge the exhaust exit to 27mm so there are no as any step or sudden change  in cause a pressure wave to go back up the to the valve. These pressure waves can be a thing. like on lower revs you can build them in to a pressure wave that stops the charge (petrol/air mixture the inlet valve)  escaping out of the valve on overlap (both valves are at this point) . But if you don’t how to build these in accurately, I don’t without lots of I think it’s best if are as few steps/changes in diameter as possible.

I am surprised at the quality, or lack of it to be on the cylinder heads. In this of a cleaned cylinder head you can see the (air holes) in this

By the way I learned a trick from a that owns a cylinder repair shop. You can use an orbital clean the face of Heron (flat head with valves, like the Morini). It is to do on hemi heads (heads with the camber in the head, not like the that has the combustion chamber in the as it is easy to chamfer the edges and the gasket face slightly resulting in possible gasket

To clean the valves up I put them in the and used some course wet and dry (60 to get the worst of the carbon off. progressed to 180 grit. Heres I made earlier (Blue tuning.

If you are not of a certain age and English, you have a clue what I’m about).

As you can see, the inlet valve is quite pitted, whether from or bad production techniques I don’t But looking at the exhaust valve, has almost no marks on it at all, I say that the latter is most You can get the same results as I have the lathe, by putting an electric drill in a and putting the valve in the chuck.

If is a large build up of carbon on the you can use a small screw driver a lathe tool to clean it off you go to it with the wet and dry. Now I clean up the with my trusty Dremel and I have found that if you use tools on aluminium they up and stop cutting.

If you dip your tool in to vegetable oil regularly it clog up (it also adds a flavour and texture to fried if, when you have finished you use the for cooking).


Well, not a lot getting done over the couple of weeks there has positive flurry of activity over the couple of days. First up was to get the unit mounted and for this I in my steel pile and came up a length of 16mm X 3mm mild A lot of people seem to that you need to make supports out of RSJ’s, but I have that you can use very little to make a solid mounting.

In if you have a look at most bike seat mounts you see that they are made of up steel sheet of less I made up a front support and held it with the seat in the position it would be welded and then it in place. I could then up the rear support and do the same. I that sound easy and apart from the part you have to hold it all in place spotting it with the welder.

For you could do with an assistant the audience or grow another of arms.  Once I was happy the angle of the supports (you them flush with the of the seat or it may split the seat when you tighten the fixing down) I started makin up the These where a little to make as the base of the seat has a curve.

Armed with a pane hammer and an anvil( a section of railway track) I the metal until it fitted the of the seat. I then tacked in, placed the seat on top and checked underneath that it sat snuggly on the frame I had made. Once I had the odd adjustment with the hammer I it all up.  I also had a rummage my threaded boss container (an old tin) and found a couple of 6mm that I thought would be fixing bolts.

These I in to the inner corners of the support

Now to make up the front mounting for the seat base. This be made from some sheet that was once a an FZR 1000 silencer. I put the seat on the support frame in the position I it mounting and then drew the inside of the supporting frame.

I now had the and dimensions of the mounting plate.  I the plate out with the angle bent it up in the vice and pop riveted it in to

Now it’s a simple job of sliding the plate under the front of the frame and centralise the seat. I get a tin of black spray paint with the seat in the exact I want it mounted in I spray up the 6mm bolt holes in the bosses I welded to the inside of the frame. gives me the points at which I to drill.

That done and hey I have a seat on my bike.

the seat mounted and the clip-ons on I can where I want the foot I will mount the pegs forward of their ideal for clip-ons as I will be the motocross bars most of the time. I the mounting plate out of 40mm Again, this may not seem a lot, but it only spans a distance.

They end up being at what looks like a angle, compared to the frame, but the peg loops, which they are to, are actually splayed and not

Next up is the gear change and brake. I haven’t been forward to this at all. I explain. I have mostly been and Japanese bikes for the past 30 years foot gear change). that I rode a lot of British foot gear change).

I owned an 350cc Enfield, about 12 ago and whilst chasing a couple of bikes through some know it’s sad and I do take my but some times The sickness comes me). Anyway I was on the road and slammed the back on whilst trying to change the box (I was slightly banked over at the and the resulting slide added a new dimension to the word exciting).

about 23 years ago I had a BSA A65 650cc parallel twin foot change and 1 up the rest my nice bike and a Suzuki as my everyday transport (You use an A65 for everyday transport as tend turn engine into externals). Again I was out a few friends and merrily thrashing the when having dived the outside of one of said pals and of the corner changed down of up, whilst in the red zone of the rev counter.

was no damage done (those really are incredibly strong) but I about what would if I did the same on the A65. I think would be a wailing and gnashing of and devastation of biblical proportions. brings me back to the Morini, is, as you have probably guessed, foot change.

A number of have said to me that I just get used to it and stop But this doesn’t stop the of bent valves and sliding the track on my arse. I therefore decided to from the Satanic right to the left (although the word comes from the latin for and refers to left-handed people who were considered

This is ridicules as we all know it is people with red hair are the work of the devil). To which end I considered a number of different for the swap. I have settled on a that only incorporates 2 joints and a shaft. I had an old Kangaroo knocking about and most of the gear, which uses a to take the gear change right to left.

I dug this out and off the sleeves that it rotates in. I rummaged in my foot control box and a Cagiva elefant gear lever that the splined end. Next up was to remove the gear lever from the non with the angle grinder tool) and popped the shaft in to the Having had a firtle in my spacer (old tomato tin) I a likely looking suspect for the job of the non splined end once it had been down.

I then turned the non down, leaving a small section to act as a and drilled and tapped a hole in the of the end so that I could fit a 6mm bolt and large washer. would hold the bush I will make up to weld to the and stop the shaft from left or right. On the other end of the I will employ the sleeve I hacked from the frame. are the parts that I turned up in the

I did take a picture of all the components, seems to have been by aliens (more common you think).

I now held it in position the bike with a scissor to see where I want the lever to be on the and how the linkage will be on the right. Now it a small plate with a to fix the rose joint to. I measured the on the gear change shaft and the dimensions on to the plate I made welded it to the shaft.

Put it all back on the and get the final position (making it was as parallel as possible to the frame) weld it all up. A small piece of 6mm bar was used between the 2 rose and Robert is your mother’s


Well, it has been a time since I posted but things have been done admittedly not as many as I have liked, but you can’t it all. The original plan was to the bottom end together,rear brake fabricated and fitted. I also to go to Seville to get the barrels and pistons and decide which ones to be used.

Well that all got out of the water with the decision to our house and move farther to a village called Valverde del where we have a language So I have been repainting the and doing all those small that I have been like refitting the bedroom ,building the on suite bathroom and the extension to the back of the house. As I small jobs. As you can imagine has knocked a hole in my free

But I have managed to finish the of the bottom end and I am planning on blagging a to put it together in the next week (or so I First up was the cam pulley, which a hefty 334 grams. a tad  kill. I trimmed this to 224 grams and could probably some more off of that.

But the of the pulley breaking at 10,000 rpm and the carnage gives me nightmares.

it was turned down I left it on the and it gained a little surface which has come out in the photo a lot than it actually is. ( I have got off the phone to Alex at North and he told me that he also a lightened cam pulley and it just The  reason that the cam pulley so much is that the cam belt have a tensioner and the weight of the acts as a damper for the cam, out the action of the cam and keeping it all flowing

He found that when he the light pulley the ignition was around quite drastically of belt stretch. Well to the drawing board.)Next up is the clutch . I the outer and gave it the Swiss look, which is so fashionable on a bike.

This didn’t the weight as much as I would thought. The standard weighing in at 444 whilst the ventilated version 412 grams. Which at the end of the day is pretty

I have heard of people who become obsessed with reduction on bikes and have many hours drilling everything and slimming parts in lathes to the point where the of the chassis and internal engine has been compromised. I now see how this to weight reduction takes But even with the two parts I lightened here I have saved myself  140 grams.

If I go to the and have a dump before a I would save more than that and I wouldn’t to spend hours doing it depending on what I ate the night But lets not go there). I wanted to the clutch inner as I think serious weight could be from it, but found that it is from a hardened steel guffawed at my attempts to penetrate it.

I it to a local engineer to try his pillar which, I’m not saying is old, have heard was used in the of the Ark. which along with a drill bit should be able to most types of steel. Not so. the clutch centre scoffed at my to drill holes in it and I had to admit

Both myself and the engineer a little surprised at the quality of the used for the clutch centre and I understand why I have a couple are completely chewed up. I would thought that with the being made of mild and the centre being made of sort of hardened high steel and the plates would be as and mangle accordingly. Not chew up the It’s probably just one of things. So next up is to polish the

I wound masking tape all the journals 3 or 4 times and then did the with insulation tape. I didn’t want to damage any and have to use one of the other cranks. I with a … grinder stone in my drill, then on to a flap wheel and finally a 180 scotch bright bobbin.

I have posted a picture of the but not the … grinding stone as the one I had exploded when I was grinding the (I think there was a fault or air in the stone). I always wear glasses and on this occasion was glad I did.

Here is a of the crank half  done.

As you can see I am removing the minimum material the crank webs to get a nice finish on it. After many of grinding, sanding and polishing it like this.

Apart this very little has in the bike shed. I have fitted the new top yolk with the bar clamps along with the but still haven’t got around to the rear brake pedal.

I started making a list of all the in the motor and will post in the Morini tech section I have a full list One problem that has made me to do any major surgery is that I heard that the regulations been radically changed (the one I have been able to is that the entry date has changed from the end of ’82 to the end of ’79 which foresaw) . I have called the FAM ruling body for motorcycle in Andalusia) and was told that the new would be published in the first of January. This of course I believe and so I was proved correct in my

I called again at the end of January to be that the Regs would be between the 14th and 16th of I am not holding my breath. I spoke to one of the guys that race in series and he told me that year the reg’s where at the end of march, when the first was at the beginning of May. WELCOME TO

You do get used to this kind of lying and accept it. But another you get to accept is that most only apply to you (as in anyone) if you them seriously, which of no one does. Last year the guy won the last race had a complete LC end on his yamaha XS400.

It was obvious that it the original front end as the wheels different, but no one cared because bending the rules to some One guy has a honda 500/4 with  complete body  work. The regs that you must use the orignal tank and that the fairing be of a similar in appearance to the original one

They never fitted a to the 500/4 or for that matter any of the 70′s, so how can you fit a fairing to pretty any bike of that era? So as you can see the aren’t really rules, guide lines that can be if you so choose. Oh, and this applies to aspects of life in Andalusia. In the UK are black and white. Here is a murky grey.

It certainly you on your toes.


it’s all gone a little at the moment. As I said before, we finally decided to sell our and move a little farther So I have been repainting the relaying floors etc in preparation for the agents (or the nearest thing we to an estate agent over taking photos.

Morini New York 500

I have a few hours in the shed to put the bottom end of the together and have machined up the brake lever shaft, but not had to weld it on the bike. I also had a whist trying to get the front bearings out. I took the and got a suitable drift and large to knock the bearings out.

a short while of bashing I that I was going to need thing a little more to press out these bearings. I the wheel to a local mechanics that has a press and set up the wheel in the supported on either side of the in the press. I decided to try pressing the center race of the bearing as I exactly sure about the plate covering the bearing on the non

This smashed the centre and started moving the bearings out of seat. I set up the press to put pressure on the race, applied pressure and smashed the hub. I couldn’t it. I have never broken a By their very nature are substantial lumps of metal.

But I have completely buggered my Luckily I have another, but the same problem with I need to change the bearings in too.

I will be calling at NLM to find out what the hell I’m wrong. I will also ask him how to get the ones out as well, as I can’t the circlip at all.

I have been looking at big bore again and will be talking to a of companies about the piston shape of their kits to try to get one retains the combustion chamber the piston. It seems silly to a flat-topped piston in a motor should run a compact combustion to give a high-compression ratio and clean burn. I will not be a kit that doesn’t have a combustion space in its piston

I also got my flywheel back the engineer in pretty much the condition I gave it to him. too is made of a super hard and can’t be machined as I wanted. I had to machine 10 16mm holes in to it, 2.5mm from the width of the  and make it about the weight of the original.

I will now to look for someone with a grinder to remove the excess from the teeth area and I’m not what to do about the holes.

Over the past couple of I have been grabbing the odd here and there and most of in the workshop. I have made progress on a number of fronts. I not to buy a big bore kit as I have a few ideas of my own and to investigate them first. I taken the barrels off of the 350 Excalibur and be using them on the race to start the year on.

Whilst at the sport  and Excalibur I was wondering what makes the low compression and the sport high. I got the out and started to do a little measuring. It out that the crowns of the piston are much the same only the ones have had between mm more machined off of the raised of the piston and the barrels are about the amount shorter.

So I have taken my barrels and to a local engineer and he is machining of the top of the piston and the same off of the bottom of the This, I hope, will me the same compression (+/-) as the and if it turns out that it is too low I can put a thinner gasket in to raise it a little I will keep you informed on the Next up was the flywheel. I had it in my hand and that there was no machining on its face.

So I got my centre punch and I would see how hard the metal was. It turned out that I centre punch a mark much difficulty. So I divided the in to eight and centre punched and 22mm holes using drill bits to start and moving on to a stepped bit that up to 30mm.

Here I am with my drill.

basically the engineer (a one to the one doing my pistons) hadn’t trying to machining it. The net result of the lightening is a from 1298 grams to grams. I will hopefully find with a surface grinder to remove 2.5mm from side of the teeth which reduce the weight even

 Here is the final result balancing.

I also tested the tank for leaks. I should done this when I it, but didnt.What i found when I the tank with water was there where at least 10 from welds or where the had rusted away and only the was the barrier between the inside of the and the outside world. I  found as I welded the old holes, the heat produce new holes near the I had just done.

After 3 I admitted defeat and rang a guy in who has a load of bits for Morinis and a price that would put my in to intensive care was surprised to be that he didn’t have any 350 but had a 500 tank with no taps or cap and it was for 30 euros including postage. He be checking it for leaks this and hopefully posting it in the morning. I turned my attention to the exhaust

I have a diagram of a factory race exhaust system and am it to see if it works. I have posted a of the diagram in to the Morini tech I have bought 4 mtrs of internal diameter and 30mm diameter tubing. The problem was I haven’t been able to anyone with a tube I had a number of sections of chopped off pipe so checked the I.D and found it to be the same as I need.

But it is double tubing and, per foot weighs the as an RSJ. Get the angle grinder out would I be with out my trusty grinder?) and make a cut down the of the tube, but only through the tubing and peel the outer of tubing off. I then a pipe to the dimensions I need in a of the new tubing and the bends from the pipes.

Sand down the finish off with the drill and wire brush and it looks OK. I finish the front one I will them mat black.

The megaphones are construction, but visitors stopped for the day. I also painted the wheel and fitted the new tyres. really is a big psychological boost as I turned the corner from everything worse by sanding or and am now seeing finished pieces are awaiting final assembly. The wheel turned out to be a little

It had been painted (by a blind man a muddy stick ) and I wanted to remove paint. I used a paint and regretted it almost immediately.

It fetched off the gold, what I was powder coating, but which out to be plastic coating,  that was the black. I have since about 4 hours stripping it all Well that is a lie as I got 5/8ths of the way and couldn’t take any more.

It is now and has its first coat of red. I put the other coats on yet as the weather is I have now got a copy of the latest regs for the class i’m racing in. decided not to change the eligibility

In fact I don’t think have changed anything.

Not made a lot of progress over the I bought a roasting pan the other day to in to an oil catch tray, but think I may to buy a  bigger one as it will be easier to outside of the frame. I also i would get on with the front only to find that I have any bends that are enough.

In the course of my working I balanced tha carbs of the bike of a has moved to the village and in the of our conversation he happened to mention he had a tube bender and would be to bend me a couple of tubes. he went to Jerez for the GP so I didn’t get to do the


Not posted for a while as I been really busy work and working on the Morini.  I had to fit a thinner base gasket to the compression a little more, so checked the barrels for oil ways I set making my own thin gasket a cereal packet (my bantams and all had cereal packet gaskets) about 3 minutes to make the 2. I fitted the barrels and pistons.

I have a front wheel in the and it was a little precarious on the stand so I’d fit the new front tyre to the freshly (about a week earlier) and get the bike a little more This done I fitted it to the and the wheels do look mighty On the same day the petrol tank up from Barcelona and is also in good nick.

The only is that it is the later type and mounts on 2 rubber blobs term) at the front of the frame, as the Sport tank mounts on 2 at the front of the tank. This that I will have to get the out and make up some brackets for the bits to sit on.I then get a chance to work on it until the of this week. I dashed in to the shed on Tuesday and started on the beasty.

Mainly looking at how the brakes are to be fitted etc. fitted the side and then decided to get the cam fitted and see if I could get the motor to and here I am fitting the primary.

went well as I set all the necessary out along with the new cam belt and tried to turn the crank and it a few degrees only to go “Donk”. I it backwards and again it moved to halt with the same “Donk”. Thinking I may have done the thinness of the base and that the pistons where the heads, I removed the heads and again. Donk. Bugger.

I thought that it may be some on the primary side that was the problem. Strip all of this out and try Donk. Remove the barrels and the turns freely. OK no big deal.

off to Aracena and talk to my tame In the end we turned 2mm off the bottom of the barrels to be on the side ( 1mm turned off the bottom of the barrels and 1mm for the extra thin gasket.). Dash home and fitting the barrels again.

By time I have been on the bike for 14 hours and am being in to the house to kiss the kids night.

The next day I’m up with the and in the shed. I am a man on a mission.I finish the barrels and pistons.  I could use the pipe from the Kangaroo to get the started. This I feel I as time was ticking on and there still many things to be before I could ride it. I a big boost to the enthusiasm-inator and hearing the would do the trick.

I had copied all the out of the translated manual I have and set off to get the cam in.  Try as I might I couldn’t get the of the exhaust cam and the inlet cam to arrive at the intervals on the degree disc. upstairs to the computer and check all the

Everything is correct. back out to the shed. Take everything on the side off and start again. everything and try to get the lobes to correspond the data I have only to the same thing all over This is getting weird.

The aren’t a little out they are out. In fact they nothing to do with any of the data I from the manual. Back to the computer. Back down to the bike shed.

I then to count the degrees that the are open for. This I find that the number of that the cam should be open the same as the data is telling me. I seeing a chart on the internet all the cams listed and the duration they are open for. upstairs.

Eventually find the on the Dutch Morini owners site (I should really put a to this site as it is full of info). From the duration of the I work out that I have a cam fitted (huge bugger), appears to be the mildest cam known to and would mean that my with its flowed heads and bits and bobs would struggle to pull the skin off of a rice pudding.

This is a huge downer, but still explain why I can’t get my cam timed up. I to go and look at the engine from a point of view and not from the of view of someone fitting a I place the pistons at the bottom of the and turn the cam in the direction stated in the

I notice that as soon as the has closed the exhaust opens. Thats not right. Turn the cam in the (wrong) direction and count the of the cam and bingo it works. The bloody has been translated wrong and been trying to time my cam

By this time it has gone and I have been working on the for 13 hours. I’m feeling tired but am to get the cam fitted. Just to make sure I fit the clutch and kickstart and the motor over with to assure myself which is the direction of rotation.

And this is it all goes wahoony shaped. As I the motor over with the ( a little too enthusiastically in hindsite) there is a DONK”. I know what Ive and it is too late to undo it. I had left the valve open on the front and smacked it with the piston.

The donk was louder and gave of a shock through the kickstart the second. With out taking the off I know I have bent the I am totally drained and too tired to be I go in to the house and have a couple of

Go to bed and try not to think about it. The next I decide to sit and make a list of to do to the Morini and where to get parts and who is going to cut a new seat for the valve. The scale is not good and I’m not sure who be able to do the seat cutting. is a company in Seville, but I’m not sure do bike valve seat

As it happens I had done a swap for a V50 that has no papers (it’s an ex bike and got sold as scrap). It for the class that i want to in and it runs. I make a list of it would need to get it on the grid. check what parts I and what I will have to

The answer is that It doesn’t much more than a set of and I want to have the heads off to the valves and to clean the ports up a

Morini New York 500

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