Vincent Rapide and Vincent Black Shadow Motorcycle Restorations

11 Мар 2015 | Author: | Комментарии к записи Vincent Rapide and Vincent Black Shadow Motorcycle Restorations отключены
Vincent Black Shadow

Here are some general non observations, primarily regarding

Starting: You have a couple of here for which you are advised to around. The kick start though robust is not intended to be habitually without employing the lever. To a lesser degree, cable and mechanism life can be exponentially if you use the engine to raise the valves off their seats for a hold with the lever than asking it to do the same by it (very) firmly.

Any properly Vincent in essentially stock carbs/Lucas magneto) will predictably in the same manner. cold, tickle the carbs evidence of gas is just seen at the ports on the carb bodies above the large gland nut the jet blocks to which the float arms are attached. Depending on temp, 1 -2 slow complete follow throughs with the arm on a pulled decompression lever. No to employ the dual choke

Then, ease the kicker down till the first of compression felt, ease the slightly to let the lifters raise the valves off their seats, this static position the decomp lever, provide a kick releasing the compression at approximate 7 o clock viewed the right side while feeding in the slightest amount of to catch the motor as it starts keeping the rev’s low. advisable to remove your oil cap and returning oil to the tank indicating to your upper valve

A warm machine will readily with no priming ease the lever down compression felt, then the decompressor lever on valve off the engine’s lifters, and the kick as earlier. Correspondingly, it’s to fit a kill button (same as button and available from Healey)to ground the magneto than using the decompressor to stop the engine.

If you need the imparted by having the machine off the acquire a Hill’s type or D center stand, do not start it on rear stand, it will the RFM bottom axle adjuster downward (#1) spreading the open.

Performance: Unlike vintage American machinery of era, because a Vincent’s performance envelope is more defined and limit more and readily reached, it is more to elevation changes where is concerned. Generally jetted to begin with, leanness is not a problem with original overly rich conditions and fouling on Lucas magneto machines can be a potential problem.

I only ridden the Red Rapide at elevation (10,000ft) and with positions the same, air screws out 1/8 of a main jets were from 195/185 to 175/165 to maintain the same performance at sea level, acknowledging that total performance available due to air density, but pleasant for two up riding. The on stock carbs, needles and pilot screws at 1 1/4 is now able to run both main jets the by virtue of a BT-H and these are the originally specified 185’s.

Fouling: Without the luxury of battery ignition to provide a spark at lower rpm where configuration excels over a Be sure to familiarize yourself jetting — which between front and rear on Lucas KVF fitted machines and pack the appropriate ones if journey will include elevation changes. Plug is essentially the spark finding a via carbon buildup from the to the insulator and then plug and ground for current flow the ground electrode.

Easy to remove with a brush, brake clean and a when new, plugs less responsive to this as the miles accumulate and carbon is by the combustion process into spaces where it cannot be readily when by the side of the Unlike battery ignitions can blast through resistance, by with fine windings, require a ready path to to prevent damage and have poles to which the spark shunt if any measureable resistance at the is detected and thus cannot be upon to do the old hold-the-plug-cap-off-the-plug trick to off fouling through resistance further coil saturation for spark energy like ignitions will do regularly.

fouling due to oiling from valve guides or rings be addressed quickly as stock have little/no reserve to this off and your front — only benefitting 50 degrees of crank rotation the plug fires — be the one that causes you the most in this situation.

02/09 BTH Magnetos: Fitting a BT-H nearly eliminates any propensity to plugs under way and even handed carb tickling has yet to any concern when starting.

The factory build sheets on at the VOC for your machine state final drive sprocket was when it left the factory. this was a 46 tooth which for riders on relatively flat not operating a machine with the 7:1 bottom gear (standard on mid and earlier Shadows) or having the diameter 19 inch rear and is entirely satisfactory.

Vincents by are extremely over geared, fit a 48 for brisker response but both my are fitted with 46’s the Shadow having not only the bottom gear but 19 inch wheel as well. If you change sprocket and particularly if this is on the more brittle cast Shadow drums (ribbed, 10 on the rear) if is important you retighten the bolts after bedding in or breaking the drum mounting if the sprockets comes loose and

With a good ESA, are very good on chains as maintain good/uniform geometry rear suspension travel reduces typical tendency to the chain tighten and stretch as the compresses. Though o-ring available to clear the very confines of the front sprocket a standard chain is adequate can thousands of miles if maintained, but be changed if adjustment exceeds a 1/2 or so new as a thrown one can wad up and damage the engine Do not over tighten your it will stress the drive wheel bearing race in rear hub ruining its interference fit and it to loosen and shift.

De-Compressor Setup: The most source for oil leaks from Vincent occur at the port in timing cover where the pin — ET165AS) emerges and the nests within the ET168 by the ET172/2. The spring (MO18 ET129) is entirely to small to the pin against the two sealing washers and in cases not even adequate to the slack out of the release wire.

to say, if you adjust your handle like your to where there’s very slack on pull till felt as the cam followers are raised valve spring pressure in all likelihood in a resting or standby your pin is not even resting the sealing washers and thus timing chest basically to atmosphere. Oil exiting here in any coats the right side of tire and you run the risk of it covering the face — not good.

the cable adjustment, removing the and ET172. Check that pin is tensioned against the two rubber (recommend replacing them), if not add a then with the sparkplugs slowly turn your over to ensure your are not being struck by the lifters, you may to feel for any gap by turning the motor again while pulling the pin further to feel for the first of its pulse in your hand lifter contact, this establish your resting/standby

If your spring feels then in it will likely not enough strength to pull the out of your wire, return handle to is resting position leaving the pin boss off of the rubber Trim about a third of a of a spare carb spring (or Lowe’s sourced substitute) and it onto your decomp at the engine end. With cable end inserted in the ET165AS this spring uses the as a backstop to pull all cable out and ensure your handle to its stop.

To adjust. You need pull the valves slightly off seats to bleed off compression to kick the motor through little resistance. Thus, the ET172/2 on the cable, inserted the sleeve, affix the cable end to the pin and adjust the cable till the is just about drawn the sleeve insert your end into the pin head

Cables: raw, uncut and you’ll to measure, cut and solder up the ends. As cables may be of either steel or steel it is important to determine as this will dictate the and solder used to ensure a bond. Silver solder is and I will defer to Jim Wilson’s explanation here. scan to Soldering Cables on the page.

Original — Older As full restorations follow the same template, this assumes a basket/non runner/runner for you want to preserve/create some of originality, thus covers saving your existing or a reasonably expeditious alternative to the skill of antiquing repairs to patena. Originally black cycle parts were and the Black Shadow motors enameled, thus their were never flawless but the enameled parts have incredibly durable while the parts have generally to a semi flat finish.

Fuel tank. If yours is or wears a re-paint at least 40 old it may likely have original or accurately colored decals, gold leaf or at least a striping job if redone by Conways or No matter how dingy, it can be revived and finish is not only worth but now must be protected from our fuel formulations for which no non vintage clear coat is

But first, you must determine if it has clear coated, either all or just on the striping and decals. clean the entire tank a finish degreaser available at Automotive paint supply designed to eliminate fish

Using 3M 600 grit pre soaked in to soften the backing paper to it more compliant, carefully rub an area down near the mounting tabs, if cleared, the left behind on your will be chalky white/yellow and if it’ll be the black of your coat. If not cleared it is time to it for clear coat. As this is paint, the objective is a good bond over the chemical that would possible if it was applied color coat.

Wet the entire tank with grit a section at a time, go behind your work a rubber squeegee of sponge across the surface. The objective is to it all a matt finish, any low spots/damage not will manifest itself as spots. This assumes the of getting this surface as as possible, leave imperfections to the level of patena you desire.

a liquid and subject to surface improperly applied clear to do not cover any surface elevation like decals or striping and there may be thin sections, you cannot be too careful with merely scuff them to knock any gloss off. sanding residue off with and then wipe completed with degreaser.

If your has been completely clear then carefully wet sand 600 grit checking your as you go, the first hint of black, Many factors influence paint surface depth so you need to check residue Merely scuff the decals/striping 1500 as above.

Be advised, any aged clear coat behind will appear as spots in the finished work newly cleared, but, is the better side of compromise to cutting through the black. If you significant chips or missing coat (often around the cap boss or down near the you can merely touch it up with a and cut it back with 600 level the surrounding area.

Vincent caps have a very cork gasket and are prone to when full and left on the stand. Often not only the is damaged but the right side decal may be partially lifted the surface around its perimeter and be reattached. Feed very amounts of water soluble Glue under the edges and flat with a moist I have also re-adhered by mixing small amounts of and hardener.

When complete prep as above for paint.

Clear Two schools of thought on this In addition to scratching and pitting, to sunlight yellows vintage coat all the way through like rear windows on old convertibles. patena restorers elect to mix agents in with their but this not only adds an that distorts the underlying appearance, it is too uniform and does not real world wear exposure effect.

I shoot unaltered and then vary the with wet sanding and buffing, if

The following applies using MS Clear shot through a feed Sataminjet similar to one at 28PSI. Aged paint, lacquer should not pose a problem but it would be wise to a small area on the underside of the just to make sure. If you do not regularly it is advisable to make a as unwieldy as a fuel tank rotatable to permit flowing out any here’s my solution but at a minimum, up handles for front/rear tank

Though dry/semi dry coats a good tack base and can propensity for runs, but if allowed to off, they will in clears as cloudy areas, try to shoot two or three wet coats a bit longer flash off time each. As you’ll be wanting to the upraised areas comprising the and striping, spot paint with generous margin a few extra wet coats, don’t about blend lines to the of the tank, you’ll be cutting back with wet sanding.

To a well used but still appearing original/older repaint, a 48-72 hour flash off and cure, wet sand with backed by a 2 x 4 inch rubber available at auto paint Periodically squeegee off your to check for achieving a uniform finish. If going for exceptional back this up with grit, otherwise progress to

Vincent Black Shadow
Vincent Black Shadow

The objective here is to achieve a but with a halo of fine to duplicate wear. Using 3M II on a dimpled foam pad at 1,500rpm, a slow wet pass, then over the same area dry. As this paint is not cured 72 hours out, do not to the point where you feel heat, you will stretch and the structural integrity of the paint. off with a towel and inspect. buff till desired is achieved.

More original can be achieved by not buffing the area your fuel filler to a gloss, more glossy over the top center of the tank wear is minimal and more left on either side at the of the tank where pants contact it.

Pictured is a before and of my Black Shadow fuel It sat in basement occupied by many have full of fuel for 31 Moisture (cat sourced or completely etch the clear off the top of the and clouded it all over. It was missing a 3 diameter section of paint to the metal around the side left fuel tap and the left Vincent decal was lifted a 1/16 to 1/8 inch in around its from fuel leaks.

Initially, to adhere to the theme of this machine entirely aerosols, I prep’d it as outlined and shot it with artist’s clear aerosol, which the first splash of fuel, the then began to deteriorate in a month than it had in more the 3 decades it spent as a basket most impacted was the same side decal now full and shriveled. With heat and of clear, it was flattened, reattached. another wet sanding the aerosol was removed, the tank shot Glasurit and finished to the stage you see

Cycle parts. I originally set out to get a original Shadow to mechanically while leaving the aesthetics but circumstances (very low mileage, numbers, history and close to led to a (pile of) a machine much down the appearance ladder but the was still the same, a dusty horse for which there be no worry associated with wear or the occasional scratch.

all 60 plus pieces were stripped, repaired and prep’d as to be painted with polyurethane, the entire machine with the of the stove enameled engine was with Rustoleum Gloss out of aerosol cans over metal. I took this to experiment with finish

Aerosols have none of the solids characteristics of 2 part instead, primarily solvents to reasonable flow out and gloss a wide variety of application and techniques. Forced drying not only flash off the solvents but can down the gloss. Using 160 degree F as a baseline, dry times 15 onward to 20 minutes will knock down gloss and the appearance of higher surface density, you’ll need to

Carbs. Bodies and float were painted a machine like silver originally front carb body on but this coating rarely and on an unrestored machine, I’d be to leave them bare. But if you to paint yours, current formulations prevent using but the best cured polyurethane otherwise the paint will peel back at the top of the float where it joins the ungasketed

Observed on an NOS float bowl, the composition of the original coating was not and the metallic content very A close match is Glasurit silver stock used for tints to achieve color

Paint — Replicating Black Vincent cycle were originally dipped and baked (some debate on Red Rapides were sprayed all Older paints have a degree of opacity then catalyzed paints and also from not having the pigment by hardener. Two replicate these to any degree you’ll need to a supplier offering high-solids like the aforementioned Glasurit.

To as much opacity as possible, I the cycle parts using hardener one level up on the shop and used a little more to aid flow out. The latter flash off during drying. Red were painted in three of which my 7,200 mile had quite a bit of well preserved paint.

As Red Vincents tended to turn as they faded when to sunlight, I used the backside of one of the brake plates to get a computer This paint is Glasurit code 027, identical to Porsche Guards Red.

If black cycle parts, and the original luster you’ll to experiment with a deglosser as did not even have the sheen of single stage much clear coated finishes.

Original seats have thin bases and are prone to bow load. Heavier riders or with passengers compress the which in turn raises the of the seat relative to the nose both forward every the brake is applied.

When a seat, I use treated 3/4 marine and for the Shadow which does not the original Dunlo Pillow contoured the foam such the nose is slightly elevated and the where one’s backside is now lowered. Though some seat bases left in wood, I paint mine and all hardware as the foams act to collect

Seat covers can be head from $50 to several hundred in leather and 8 panel. John sells a very nice 8 reasonably priced. To fit, do a mock up to ensure top perimeter of the follows the perimeter seam of the

If the foam is obviously oversized problem usually manifests in the rear at each corner, cut the foam with 60-80 sandpaper. For final fitment, only the top of the seat foam adhesive, not the sides, heat the and work it around till it is and secured. JH’s cover though robust is compliant to be stretched or drawn together required without visual

On an 8 panel the two challenging areas are the nose to the base without in the front face and securing the to the base in the inside curve of the area right behind the seat. Attach the nose, two sides at that location and rear corner first. stretch/draw together the sides in these points to achieve free attachment.

To avoid any on the road, you want to employ the spring clip to retain tool tray and make the tab fully nests in the recess in the box face or the tool tray slowly work its way outward and off.

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