GPZ 1100

21 Apr 2015 | Author: | Comments Off on GPZ 1100

Kawasaki GPZ 1100 ABS

In the following I have only mentioned the repairs – not the regular maintenance and the replacement of small items like bulbs, oil etc.

10.000 km/6.200 miles: At the regular service interval the dealer informs me that there is a mark on one of the cams, indicating possible pitting, and advices me that the cams should be checked again before the warrenty expires.

15.000 km/9.300 miles: Last regular service before the warrenty expires. Several cams shows signs of pitting, and both camshafte are replaced under warrenty.

(Several GPZ owners in the USA and Australia have experienced the same. Others have had no problems. Two possible causes are discussed on the GPz list, unsufficient hardening of the metal on the cams or unsufficient lubrication. Kawasaki has not (until now) addressed the problem, and the part numbers for the replacement camshafts are the same as for the originals. Until now I have been using a full synthetic 5W-50 motorcycle oil, which the dealer recommends as being the best oil for the bike.

Articles in a Danish motorcycle magazine indicate, however, that thin oil may not have the required oil film strength, regardless of the otherwise superior oil quality. I have therefore chosen to switch to another oil, a (still) full synthetic 10W-50 oil).

20.000 km/12.430 miles: Cams checked at the last regular service before warrenty expires. No noticable wear.

From the GPzlist I have learned that the steering head bearings are sparsely lubricated from the factory and should be serviced within the first couple of years of the bike’s life. Indeed this turns out to be true, and it is done just in time to avoid replacing the bearings.

25.000 km/15.500 miles: Cams checked again at the regular service. Two cams show tiny little signs of pitting. I choose to stick with the full synthetic 10W-50 oil, but I add a Polytetrafluorethylen oil additive (Swedol PTFE), hoping that this may reduce the wear on the cams.

30.000 km/18.640 miles: Cams checked at the regular service. No noticable increase of the wear.

35.000 km/21.750 miles: Cams checked at the regular service. No noticable increase of the wear.

38.400 km/23.865 miles: During vacation in Italy the OEM battery suddenly collapses. New battery fitted by a Yamaha dealer in Avellino near Napoli.

45.000 km/28.000 miles: Cams checked at the regular service. Now 8 cams show signs of pitting. Again I add a Polytetrafluorethylen oil additive (Swedol PTFE).

50.000 km/31.000 miles: Cams checked at the regular service. No noticable increase of the wear.

61.000 km/38.000 miles: The right front fork starts leaking oil. Seal replaced.

64 .000 km/40.000 miles: For the second time the battery collapses during vacation in Italy. A 9 Amp battery is installed temporarily and works great. It turns out that the charge is somewhat over the limit (16.4 volts).

Once home again I install a Yuasa 14 Amp battery but decide not to do anything about the overcharge – for now.

73 .000 km/45.000 miles: Cams checked at the regular service. Now a total of 9 cams are pitted, but still only the tiny little cracks.

83.000 km/52.000 miles: Intermittent starter problems. Turns out to be a corroded handlebar (clutch) switch. All switches and connectors checked for signs of corrosion and sprayed with contact spray, but the fault seems limited to the clutch switch.

92 .000 km/57.000 miles: Put away for the winter (November 2005). No particular problems, only regular maintenance planned.

96.000 km/60.000 miles: After a 2-hour trip at motorway speed the battery started boiling. I replaced the battery and measured the charge voltage. The readings were way too high – up to 16.8 volts. To make a long story short: It wasn’t the regulator nor the generator.

The generator measures the voltage in the wiring harness and adjusts the charge accordingly. A voltage drop somewhere in the wiring harness caused the overcharge. I got the quick fix from a Danish motorcycle news group:

Kawasaki GPZ 1100 ABS

– Cut the BR wire that goes between the generator and the wiring harness.

– Connect the end of the BR wire that comes from the wiring harness to

the coil of an ordinary 12 volt car relay.

– Ground the other coil connector. Now, if you turn on the ignition

switch ON the relay should be triggered (click).

– Connect the end of the BR wire that comes from the generator to one of

the connectors on the relay.

– Using a piece of wire with a 10 amp fuse inserted connect the the

other connector on the relay to the battery’s plus terminal.

100.000 km/62.150 miles: This milestone (in kilometers) was passed on October 29, 2006 in Viborg, Denmark.

110.000 km/68.365 miles: Again intermittent starter problems. Ignition switch dismantled, cleaned and sprayed with contact spray.

Kawasaki GPZ 1100 ABS
Kawasaki GPZ 1100 ABS
Kawasaki GPZ 1100 ABS

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