Kawasaki KL250 «Super Sherpa» Eric Peters Autos

18 Мар 2015 | Author: | Комментарии к записи Kawasaki KL250 «Super Sherpa» Eric Peters Autos отключены
Kawasaki KL 250

Kawasaki KL250 “Super

by eric • December 3, • 9 Comments

I’ve a 2000 Kawasaki KL250 Sherpa for about six years Here’s some history, – and opinion based on personal – about this 250 cc dual motorcycle:

First, the facts:

The came out – in the Japanese home – in 1997 and in the United States in It was sold through 2003 (and continuously in Japan and markets) and then again in the States in 2009.

It’s a rare bike, but there’s a if small, owner’s society out

The KL250 weighs 282 pounds, has a steel frame with an swingarm and “Uni-Trak” monotube/coil rear suspension. The engine is hp DOHC single. The transmission is a w/cable-actuated (non-hydraulic) clutch.

It a digital dashboard with tripmeters and clock, but no tachometer, warning light/gauge or gas gauge.

New was $4,999. I picked mine up less than 2,000 on it for $2,000.

Many people the KL250 with the more KLR250, but they are very bikes.

The Sherpa, for openers, is on-road oriented than the KLR – at as it comes from the factory. For the KL250 has street-intended tires are helpless on anything more than gravel – and comes a low-mount front fender. The chromed aluminum handlebar is fairly delicate and can be easily if you drop the bike off-roading.

The turn signals do have stalks but they, too, are to damage when riding

One of the first things I did to my bike was to the high-mount front fender and the street-minded factory tires much more aggressive (90 percent off-road) knobbies. I out the factory handlebar, replacing it an aftermarket (reinforced) tube-steel that’s much tougher and a little shorter, for clearance Finally, I replaced the street-oriented chromed) factory rearview with flexible plastic mirrors. (The turn can be easily unplugged prior to if you head off-road. This, in my is the best solution for that

These minor mods the bike much more capable without screwing up its capability (or legality).

Functionally, one of the differences between the KL250 and the is the engine. Both bikes 250 cc singles but the KL’s is air-cooled vs. the water-cooled engine.

I am partial to the engine of the KL because it’s simpler – and also inherently maintenace. There’s no radiator to when you’re out in the woods – and you have to worry about coolant or tearing a hose.

It’s true the KLR’s engine makes a bit more and handles high-heat summer better – but the KL will still do 90 mph, all out – and it can maintain 60 MPH with a 200 rider (me) on board. actually pretty quick off the and feels stronger (or more geared) over 50 mph than the

I think the KLR250 has “gruntier” – and a slightly lower top speed.

A point is the hyper-lean factory which makes the KL250 cold natured and hard-starting if the air is less than 40 degrees. The news is this is easily inexpensively) taken care of by out the lean pilot and main with richer ones a 130 main, Kaw part #KW92063-1103 and jet #45-20) and removing the brass air limiter, then setting the air to 2 and 3/4 turns out.

I did this the month I owned my bike and it a tremendous difference for the better.

difference between the KLR ad the KL is the frame – and height. It is a physically smaller than the KLR and you sit much lower in the KL height is 32.7 inches). is a plus for shorter riders as as new riders.

But taller riders 6 ft 3) can ride this bike, The downside is the KL’s suspension has travel than the KLR’s – and if you are a person (over 150 pounds) or aggressively off-road, the bike bottom out more easily and the is definitely harsher.

Another difference: The KL250 has brakes front and rear the KLR (older models, at least) has a rear brake. Having both, I can vouch that the KL quicker and has better braking

Another KL feature is the gold-anodized spoked) rims. They’re and also expensive looking.

A is you’re limited in terms of the of the rear tire you can mount the KL250′s swingarm has less between its bars than the I have a friend who owns a 1997 KLR250 and he was able to a much wider off-road than I could. But in real-world use (no “extreme” motocross stuff) I found that the KL will keep up with a KLR using the tire – even if the KLR’s is

I have taken the KL down pretty hairy fire where I live up in the Blue mountains – and the bike got me out of there, It has tackled stream wading, two of snow – and I have found it to be a tenacious little thing.

There’s only one thing I the KL250 I really don’t – and which I consider a liability for an bike. It has electric start, a kicker back-up.

The KLR250 has a

Kawasaki KL 250

I just prefer a kicker, – but for off-road bikes, I think a is a must-have. Anyone who goes knows this scene: out in the boonies, and just rode a puddle you thought was three deep but which turned out to be feet deep. The bike out. You heave it out of the muck and try to it.

If it’s electric, you may only a few seconds of juice – maybe at all, if the battery fried

If it doesn’t light, you’re

The best you can do is try to find a downhill and roll-start the thing. Maybe no hill.

But if you have a kicker, get it started again (unless broken or seriously off-kilter). It may awhile and your leg may get sore, but so as you can kick that thing, it will light off – and you won’t to push/pull it home.

Or go get your

When I got my bike, I spent a lot of researching whether it would be to retrofit a kicker. There is a on the side of the engine case a kicker lever would go (it like). But after asking a lot of I found out that doing mod would involve a lot more and money than I was willing to at it. Instead, I always make the battery is at peak charge I even think about off-roading – and I never ride just in case.

Having to hump it several out of the wilderness because the bike start is not my idea of fun!


On the plus side, the requires very little It takes 1.6 quarts of oil (w/filter and both the drain plug of the case) and the filter access a cover on the righthand side of the just unbolt two 10 mm bolts) are to to get at. An oil/filter change takes than 10 minutes and costs $10.

There’s no radiator, so no to change or hoses to sweat. than periodic chain checks/adjustments and a valve clearance every 7,500 miles or so bike doesn’t ask for much. It 60-70 MPGs, depending on how set up (expect mileage to drop off-road knobbies and jetting, and is extremely reliable.

I’ve put through some pretty off-road situations – and also run it WOT on the for 10 minutes at a stretch – and it didn’t to cause the bike any harm. It as well today as it did when I it six years ago.

The KLR is still the better all out off-road mainly because of its superior and suspension travel. But the KL is a bike can do 90 percent of what the KLR can in real-world (unless you motocross) and it’s a bike on-road that less to keep, too.

a neat bike that’s as a first bike/learner bike, or a bike, or (like mine) a trails bike that’s able to knock around roads.

I give it an 8 out of 10.

Kawasaki KL 250
Kawasaki KL 250
Kawasaki KL 250
Kawasaki KL 250
Kawasaki KL 250


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