Motorcycle Repair: KLR 250, kawasaki klr 250, cam follower

26 Jan 2015 | Author: | Comments Off on Motorcycle Repair: KLR 250, kawasaki klr 250, cam follower
Kawasaki KLR 250

Motorcycle Repair / KLR 250

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Question

I have a 1999 Kawasaki KLR 250 dual sport. The bike starts on 1st or second kick, idles great and revs like you would expect. When traveling, 1st through 4th are great, 5th ok when on level ground or downhill and 6th will only maintain 60 mph unless going downhill.

Others report this bike has no problem running 75 on the highway and when I first got it, I had no problem, then one day this started.

I have taken the carb apart so many times, I could do it in my sleep, boiled it, soaked it and still no change. Put a new coil, spark plug and spark plug wire on. Checked and rechecked all connections for loose or bare wire, set the valves, checked fuel flow and removed the stator housing to verify all is connected correctly.

Compression is around 110 and does not leak. I am at my wits end and don’t know where to look.

I also notice as I go over rough roads I get an intermittent cutout, but cannot find any loose connections.

Please help!

Stan

Answer

Hi Stan,

Engine power is mostly related to size and the inflow and outflow

of air. Your bike has a decompression unit which may be

worth looking at as lower compression equals less power.

Your reading of 110 psi is okay if the decompressor is

working but low if that is the total compression.

Another power stealer is a narrowed or plugged exhaust pipe

or air intake tract. Anything that lowers the flow

of air through the engine will steal power.

This includes air leaks around the carb mounting tube.

Lowered compression or air flow through the engine

must be considered along with carburetor condition.

The other thing that affects the flow of air/fuel

is the opening and duration of the valves.

A worn camshaft lobe or cam follower can cut down the valve

opening and timing so there is less fuel drawn into the engine.

In the ignition department the ignition timing and

advance are critical. Even if the timing is spot on

at idle it may not be getting the proper advance

at higher speeds. Some bikes have mechanical advance

Kawasaki KLR 250

units. Most later bikes have electronic advance


built into the pulse and CDI system.

This can be easily checked with a timing light.

Some bikes have the idle and advance timing marked.

The F mark is usually the idle timing mark.

When you speed up the engine the timing marks

should change as it automatically advances the ignition timing.

The KLR was built for low speed torque so intake and exhaust

ports are smaller. High speeds require a fast flow

of air so performance exhausts are less restrictive

and bigger carbs provide more fuel/air as well.

Gearing can also be lowered to provide more power.

Your engine can provide clues as to what is happening

inside the combustion chamber by reading the spark

plug at various throttle openings.

If your bike is running too rich fuel/air the plug will be black.

Kawasaki KLR 250
Kawasaki KLR 250
Kawasaki KLR 250
Kawasaki KLR 250
Kawasaki KLR 250

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