ZRX1100/1200 FAQ in ZRX Technical Q&A Forum

5 Фев 2015 | Author: | Комментарии к записи ZRX1100/1200 FAQ in ZRX Technical Q&A Forum отключены
Kawasaki ZRX 1200

ZRX1100/1200 FAQ

Autors note: is intended to be a new sticky topic in Q A, hopefully of more interest to our members but can be used as a quick by our more established Rexers. a bit basic to start with but a bit of feedback from you and a bit of help this forums Moderators it develop into a useful of reference. What follows hopfully reflect the views of the of the membership.

Any suggestions, errors or please reply below.


As with any purchase, you get what you pay for so advisable to set a budget for as much as you can afford allowing a bit of spare for modifications repairs and improvements.

On the the ZRX has proved to be a good solid with no consistantly reported or failings. The motor itself is a ZZR unit and as such is less stressed and with regular maintainence should give miles of trouble free Service intervals are every with a major every

The ZRX isn’t fitted with a That braced swingarm on the 1100 and the 1200 models make this impoosible/impractical to (At least the ZRX has a valid excuse for no unlike the majority of sportsbikes at the moment.)

If you intend doing own maintainence then sooner or you’re going to need to get the of the ground, if not off the bike altogether. of us here have at least a stand for the rear if not one for the front Once the rear is supported on a stand it iis possible (with to jack the front up.

If doing then a suitable means of the front of the bike such as stands. blocks of wood or a pile of books (don’t It’s been done) is The jack alone is not a recommended as it may either collapse due to instability or if leak slightly and let the bike

Paddock stands can be a little to use single-handedly untill you get used to Many members favour the Superbike stand which easy one man operation and of course what it is intended to do. See here for

Even a basic maintainence such as lubing the chain, possible on the sidestand is easier the rear wheel elevated.


The Standard ZRX is shod Bridgestone 020 tyres which are adequate for the job. Many favour the slightly softer 010 which offers a little grip in all conditions but at the expense of If touring and commuting are your then best stick to the

Track gods and Knee merchants may prefer the 010.

The quoted in the Kawasaki Owners are in fact incorrect, according to The tyre manufacturers quote at 36/42 psi. Running at slightly increased pressures of us have reported improved and durability. 2/3 of our membership run at these

The other 1/3 have experimented and a pressure that suits best. Nobody seems to use the quoted by Kawasaki.

The Bridgestone 010 is to be replaced with the improved There are of course several tyre manufacturers who can supply a suitable for the ZRX.

While on the of tyres, althougth it is possible to fit a 180 rear tyre to the 1100 was designed to accept a 170, manufacturers universally and the membership generally frown on the idea. A tyre fitted to a rim narrower it was designed for cannot possibly as it was intended to and there may be a safety here too.

Here is current (Apr’ 05) tyre Venn diagram showing their tyres site in of grip and wear:

The present OEM for the ZRX1200R and S models is the BT-020 various options. This is an tyre for general use being and relatively grippy — I did my first Rex trackday on the 020 and the bike was — and giving excellent life.

The 014 is being marketed as a for the sportier 010 and 012 tyres but it’s days yet in terms of ZRXOC using them.

The 010 was a popular on the ZRX1100 and being grippier the 020 has been used on ZRXOC to great effect.

The 012SS is as a very sporty choice but has a life-span. It does compare favourably on track with the the latter tyres bobbling up quickly whilst the 012SS relatively unmarked for most of the


Regular and particularly oil/filter changes are a The debate still rages as to mineral or synthetic is preferred, the will be in soon.


The Diamond Radiator Destroyer.

If you have a standard radiator on your ZRX you may find a little shaped rubber pad sitting in the of it. If it’s still there IT IMMEDIATELY. This 50p item has known to get grit trapped it and then rub a hole in the radiator causing potentially very damage.

Things that come — Nuts And Bolts.

proper servicing all safety items should be regularly for tightness. We’ve had a couple of incidents where this has not the case.

Check the mounting which secure the removeable of the lower frame rail on the hand side.

Check the retaining nut/bolt for tightness. ends of this may look frame plugs for decorative but they are in fact the bolt and the nut itself.

Neither of the above or riders were damaged in the incidents but.

There may be such incidents which been omitted. If there is, let us

Things that won’t undone when they

Many members have problems with the retaining for the rear brake caliper. time to change the rear these have been to have corroded in place and all of mechanical means have used to remove them.

can easily be avoided;

From the these pins have no or protection and due to their location caliper is below the swingarm and can get in all sorts of muck) can and will easily.

No harm will of periodically removing these and using a little copper or similar to protect them. be tempted to simply spray in this area due to risk of of discs and pads)

The front compression adjusters on the lower legs can suffer a similar and on pre ’04 models if these up, replacement of the entire lower leg is the only cure. () The adjustment are NOT removeable so don’t try or you’ll something. ( see above).

Because of an ring seal in this adding extra lubrication is pointless as it’s unlikely to The best you can do is to keep this clean and more importantly, the screws moving!

Every in a while, turn the screws in and out a couple of times. It’ll pay you to a note of your start so that you don’t upset suspension settings for later. Do by counting the clicks (or turns if no is heard or felt) from the position to fully screwed in Reset them to this afterwards.

Top hose wearing through.

I this applies mainly to the version; but a few members have had with the top radiator hose against the bolt heads on the cyl

Total headlamp failure on the S

There is a fuse holder from the main fuse box to the RH frame rail under the this is the main feed to operating the lights, it not unknown for the part of the holder to become and not make proper contact the male part of the fuse, you with no lights.


Torque settings

Torque for the 1200 can be found here. is no reason to believe that the settings should be any different.

Oil and change.

For the sake of about 3 for the and 0.3L of oil it’s a false not to change the oil filter at the same as the oil.

There’s little in listing the whole step by routine but a few pointers can make the job so simpler.

Ideally you need the supported upright. A rear stand comes in handy for A front stand would be an advantage as it’ll hold the near enough level

This is useful when the oil level when the job is complete. the engine to operating temperature and switch it off.

The drain is at the bottom of that lumpy underneath the engine (A).

The bolt for the filter is behind it and to the (B)

This is the clever, time bit;

Hopefully there be no need to disturb the exhaust near this provided the locating bolt can be withdrawn holding the cover in place. If works then the cover can be slid sideways away the exhaust mounting and the filter will fall out easily. the bolt and cover get corroded or have been manufactured to close limits that the exhaust mounting is the only way to access to the filter. (If you can sort out now while you have the parts in hands, you’ll make the filter change easier for The bolt and cover should be two parts.)

Torque settings for bolts are the same at 20N-m kg-m. 14.5 ft-lb)

forget to re-fit the drain before re-filling with oil and don’t ask which Rexer this tip the hard/embarrasing way in his spotty )

Mineral, semi or fully oil? Not too important so long as the correct grade (10W-40)

capacity when filter is


The possibilities of modding the ZRX are seemingly endless and as with any bike fall into two categories; Mechanical or performance and shiny bits. There is a of aftermaket goodies for the ZRX out there and no of suppliers willing to relieve you of hard earned in exchange for

We’ll ignore cosmetic for the moment as these are largely to personal taste.



Kawasaki ZRX 1200

Popular mods replacement full exhaust Akrapovic being the favourite, with a Dynojet and proper This is generally accepted as the best way to release a few extra HP the ZRX (The OE headers and downpipes are restrictive). A replacement can on its own will not do a lot wise but at least allows the ZRX to like a proper motorbike.

end cans are available from Art and Scorpion.


Increasing the of the rear sprocket by one or two teeth 45 to 47 teeth on the 1100, 42 to 44 teeth on the won’t give you any more but makes that available useful. This can also be without having to alter the in any way.

Theoreticaly this lower your top speed but in mainly due to the effects of wind it will be unaffected. Accelleration however be dramatically improved.

results can be achieved by reducing the of the front sprocket by one tooth. may appear to be the easier, cheaper but in the long term your will wear faster to added expense. There is an increased risk of the chain with the swingarm.

For anybody of trying something really this Gearing Calculator may you decide on sprocket sizes.


There’s no real in horsepower to be had (allegedly) but the throttle will be sharper and smoother.

The ZRX timing is factory set at 2 degrees to cater for the inferior Japanese fuels .

European and American are of a higher quality and to make the of them and therefore be more efficient 4 deg. BTDC is If fuel is being burned efficiently then there be a slight increase in power and economy.


A lot of people the stock seat uncomfortable for journeys, after market are available from Corbin and or you can have your OE seat modified by people like PP amongst others.


Although the sidestand a weak point as such, been known to let the ZRX down and expensively.

The sidestand doesn’t move forwards quite far when it’s down and it take much effort/lack of to have the bike roll slightly and the sidestand retract all by If you happen to be standing on the wrong of the bike at the time.

A quick fix is to up to 3mm of metal from the stop the sidestand butts up against down, with the result the stand will be up to 2 (50mm) forwards, requiring more of care to have an accident it.

Taking a hacksaw/file/angle grinder to new ZRX may sound a bit drastic but several have allowed it to fall first and then modified the later.



The standard suspension from the factory, also in the owners manual are a compromise to suit the majority of riders. of us have found these too firm but have no idea how to adjusting the bike to suit

What follows isn’t in any way THE guide (if there is such a but many of us have used settings with posetive

Origionally borrowed from


Well being deeply involved in the suspension for the last year, since I teaching free motorcycle seminars here in the San Francisco Bay I’ve had a lot of experience with people optimize their own Much of my experience on suspension has come firsthand, during my efforts that have the last nine years.

The one that should always be up front, when passing on settings from one person’s to another, is that the weight of the is a big variable in determining the ideal In other words, what for a 160lb. rider, will not verbatim for a 200lb. Rider, being the same bike.

share with you my settings, but take into consideration my body weight is about so at least the shock and fork settings will have to be up or down, according to your of weight from that I suspect that the compression and settings I’ve mentioned be pretty close to a perfect point, regardless of your

SHOCKS: Compression: 2 setting / IIII setting/ Preload 2nd ramp setting (this was based on achieving 1 of measured sag, with my 175 lbs. If you weigh more or less, go or softer accordingly: about 25 = 1 step position change)

Compression: MINIMUM (fully / Rebound: 1 click out from (fully clockwise till seated, then one click / Preload: 4 lines showing of measured rider sag, with my 175 lbs. Aboard. up or down from there, upon your own weight each 25 lbs difference = 1 additional up or down)

These settings, reducing the front fork to minimum, and nearly maxing out really transformed the bike’s The knock the fillings out of the teeth that I felt on my first with the factory settings, has now two up riding I add another 2 notches of on the rear and up the compression damping by 1 and on the front, increase the preload by one on each fork leg (two turns)

Flipped Eccentrics

the 1100 and 1200 are fitted eccentric chain adjusters. In form the wheel spindle is at the top of the eccentric with the bike as low as possible. By loosening the clamp it is possible to raise the rear of the by rotating the eccentrics by approximately 180

Raising the rear of the bike in manner alters the steering slightly and many members reported a faster turn in sacrificing any straight line

If you are new to this site, then on of the ZRXOC, welcome. The above is a very brief insight the wealth of knowledge gained by the of this site. Sign up for and complete at least 20 posts and you be granted access to Pitstop, our where the above subjects and a many others are outlined in far detail.

Have fun, safe!

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