Moto Guzzi Breva 750 review, for sale, parts, top speed, reliability…

15 Июн 2015 | Author: | Комментарии к записи Moto Guzzi Breva 750 review, for sale, parts, top speed, reliability… отключены




A bit of This all started because the gear lever stopped anything; the bike was in gear, but all the lever would do is move up and with no resistance, but not actually do in terms of moving anything in the Then I found this:

It had to be And so began this sorry which I shall now attempt to I hope that none of you have to find use for it. To see the thread started this, go to

It out that two other Breva (Muzz and NOLAGuzzi, real withheld to protect the guilty) needed to remove the gearbox on bikes, so between them and all the people who contributed to the discussion, manual is something of a cooperative Thanks to all of you OK, here we go.

Breva 750 repair

WHAT YOU NEED: manual and parts list: The e-mail and/or phone of your local/favourite Guzzi Tools: as usual, you can never too many of them. The ones I invaluable were a set of hex drive and T-handle hex drivers, in addition to the hammers and stuff.

I really these, with the regular hex key in the and the ball-end key on the shaft. Lots of (Tupperware-type things are great). A whose cable you wont be up over all the time (I hung off the ceiling). Lots of wire long ones for tying up out of the way, 20 cm black ones for cables and wires on reassembly. preferably knowledgeable about and strong enough to lift the

Beer (for friends)1. If you are to take the gearbox apart, I no clue how you could do it without the two tools that you need to get the nut on the off and then back off again So you need those.

One you can have (cost me about US$ 65), the you have to buy from Guzzi US$ 185 ouch!), unless you have an old centre lying around you can make the tool out of. I have tools, and hope I never to use them again, so am willing to them out if you need them.

For the of it, the only advice I have is if you take a fastener out, it back where it belongs away, washers, nuts and a heck of a lot simpler than out where it belongs later. And the component parts of each together (in a container if it is some part that should be clean) and assembled in the right otherwise youll never out what belongs where and how and what and which way round.

Ive to keep everything in sequence, but notice that every now and the pictures and the text are a bit out of whack. If in follow the text. Remember, Im new to the business, and never intended to this one in the first place.

Ive to cover everything that I may not be totally obvious, but Im sure Ive something. E-mail me at if anything missing or not clear.

I it on good authority (aka Muzza) that Muzz wine; whether this to his friends, I dont know. are happy with cheap thats why they are my friends.

THE BIKE TO WHERE YOU CAN WORK ON IT Now you have disconnected the battery, the gearbox oil, and put the beer in the (you did all of those, right?), need some way of getting the up off the ground, and of holding the back end up and the thing steady, especially if the doesnt have a centre Muzz did it like this

And I did it like this (which is why I the strong friends):

I built fine piece of furniture out of lumber; it measures about 130 cm by about 75 cm wide by 75 cm high, and beautifully (Im about 190 cm (63)). If Id on the bike on the ground, Id be having surgery right now, or be in a wheelchair.

I kept the front end by screwing a channel-type thing to the of the table, worked a treat: The made it easy to lift the adjust the height, and let it back again; they would have been handy for myself up if the repair hadnt Im kind of proud of it.

NOLAguzzi an entirely different approach, and the frame (see below): If, me, you have no clue what means, all will be revealed (at in principle) if you go to where all is also, Pete Roper the whole process in a single guide2. Bear in mind this was developed for big-block bikes, so needs considerable for use on the Breva.

The basic principle is rather than leave the in place and move the gearbox engine, you leave the engine and where they are and move the pivoting it around one of the engine bolts. This is how NOLAGuzzi it: There were some I had to adapt because of the difference the big block and small block frames. On our bikes there is a frame rail attachment passes all the way through the timing

It is in the middle. On the big blocks, as described in the pdf, you can pivot the frame on bolt. I did not get that the bolt was in a place on the small block I had already started. I pretty followed the smallblock Breva manual on what to disconnect.

I off the entire exhaust system and the tank. All of the electrical connections in the manual, pretty much except the oil sending unit. I started undoing all of the bolts (5, 10 and 7 in the holding the upper frame to the

Bolt 2 is what I used as the point.


But it takes doing to get there. I took off the panels to expose the frame. I dropped the rear brake, the speed sensor and brake switch at the plug and separated the line and the speed sensor from the swingarm and the brake cable from the frame. Off and now is the tank, both side and all of the bolts are loose.

I did not unhook any lines and the rear caliper is attached to the master cylinder on the side panel. Then I had to the ECU to get access to one of the battery plate out. Now I am a smug bastard this is going to work out as planned. I can see that I can pivot the using bolt #2 by removing the top two and the bottom ones.

So I did, and nothing moved. ensued. I realized that the bodies had to come off if this was to have any shot.

I had already all the cables, (2 throttle, 1 fake clutch), and separated them the mounts on the gearbox and crankcase. with much trepidation I into the unknown realm of injection disassembly. Once you the bolt holding the injectors to the you just pull them It takes about as much to open a bottle of wine as a of reference. Now its time for the throttle to come off and much more ensues.

Once I finally got the thing off I realized how simple it is. The hoses are soft enough you can deform them with hands. If you loosen all three of the on each side of the throttle hoses you can squish the rear and pull it off the back of the throttle while pushing it into the Once the hoses are off the whole comes off easily.

There was the neutral sensor wire I ziptied to the brace on the throttle That zip tie has to go. Now you can slightly pivot the and get the throttle bodies out. You may be to get access to the Screw of Doom the need to pivot the upper but I dont know for sure.

I double checked that was binding or would get pinched and the frame up on bolts #2 on the left and lower frame rails. So now you are at the where I took the picture of the crabbed up. I thought that I slide the gearbox back to clear the crankshaft without off a lower frame rail. I

was So instead I loosened all the bolts the bellhousing to the crankcase and tilted the back down and replaced all of the that hold the upper to the lower frame and the gearbox in. Then I rigged up something to the Muzz Breva rear thingy.

I put a 2×4 across a and the top of the fence (luckily they similar height), and tied up the of the rear of the bike to keep the top stable, ha ha yeah stable, I took the right lower I took off the rear bolts on the lower, center stand and frame brace, then of the #2 bolts that link the and lower frame.

Then I the rod that runs through the chest and links the left and lower frame rails and off the right lower rail. I out the gearbox/upper frame bolts, out the loosened bellhousing bolts, the gearbox out, and immediately put the lower frame rail on and snugged up all the remaining upper/lower bolts. Then I pulled the taut.

My rationale is that my handtruck/ fence support is not the most stable so I dont to rely on it for anything other a brace of sorts. So now the bike is up to support the back part of the frame, but both lowers are on. The whole ridiculous assembly is comfortably on the oil sump. I am patiently for a new clutch plate and rear oil seal.

Having done now I bet, and I really hope to not this out, but I bet I could both wheels, the complete the tank, throttle bodies, and the off, as well as the flywheel/clutch out in 8 hours max, figuring in a time for beer and cussin. it back together may be another entirely but as of now I am optimistic. Thanks,

Back to the original story: your follow my method you might not want to, and use the crabbing I plan to if ever I have to do job again), and that you dont a centre stand, now is the time to put a or some kind of stand the engine, it will prevent the from flopping about, all that is holding it in place is the wheel and the skyhook at the back. the trolley jack this is preferable to the type of crummy jack that comes cars, which is all I had, and is unstable and hard to use. a trolley jack if you possibly you might even want to buying one. Alternatively, your own support, like did (


REMOVING THE WHEEL AND DRIVESHAFT: Loosen the that hold the silencers to the exhaust downpipes (10 mm spanner), and the silencers from the footrest (15 mm socket and 6 mm hex key). Unscrew the caliper mounting bolt recessed into the swinging 8 mm hex key) and swing the caliper (you cant take the off completely until you take the axle out).

Dont to put a keeper between the pads and use a wire tie or similar through the hole on the caliper to prevent it dropping suddenly when you the wheel axle out; it keeps the bushing in the caliper. the 24-mm nut at the right-hand end of the axle a spanner for this in the factory

Its on tight torque setting is 120 Nm so you may to put an extension on your spanner; all your weight on the spanner by on the end of it also works. Put a block of or similar under the wheel, to it from dropping, or else get a to put that beer down and the wheel. Remove

Remove the downpipes (they will off as one piece with the expansion although they dont to). Make sure you out the gasket inside the head behind the split collet By the way, in the photo, the clamp (7) is down.

Cut the wire tie holding the two tubes. You may as well pull the off the tubes and drain them, had quite a lot of oil in them.

Off with motor. Nice and easy: two at the front, one fat wire, one thin Like Muzz said, off quicker than a lizard up a

At this point it should something like this, you may have less dirt and gunk on yours.

The arrows to (a) wire tie holding bush in in brake caliper. This is why you lots of wire ties: not are the bits together, you know way round they go. Saves a lot of and temper when you are putting the back together; (b) the rubber that you need a clamp and to get back in, I wish Id fixed it access was this good. and learn. Congratulations!

Time for a beer and a moment of You are about to get to the more difficult


Now the fun Next is getting the frame off. Muzz and NOLAGuzzi only the right-hand rail I took both off, because I was planning to move the but also because it looked less work than the centre stand off.

I think it makes much which way you do it, but in any case the right-hand has to come off.

This is picture, showing (from the short arrows: oil pressure screw that holds grounding cables, clutch lug, neutral indicator) with the long arrow, the of Doom. Simple enough, Well, it is if you do the intelligent thing and the throttle bodies, manifolds, like NOLAGuzzi did, you have access like If you dont, access to the Screw of looks more like

And thats the good side. the other side it looks this:

Muzz somehow got the of Doom out without taking the bodies off and without moving the I could not do either, and believe me, I There is simply no clearance; you can get a in (just) but not turn it.

If it werent for stupid screw, taking the off would be … simple. to all the other screws that the clutch bell housing to the is fine, but because of the Screw of you have to do some heavy-duty

In my case, I moved the engine, proves that I am a dimwit, as you discover further on; unless you are a lunatic, I recommend that you use the method (see pages 4-6 which gives you access to the bodies, which you can then Heres his description: Both bodies come off as one piece. The thing holding them on are the The tank should be off.

I almost everything electric, the sending unit connection, and off all cables, pivoted the frame up, and it under the airbox with a scrap on the right side Undo all three of the clamps but them attached. Facing the grab the rear hose, goes into the airbox, your hand palm up on the of the hose thumb pointing at the air

Squeeze the hose and push it the airbox. Unhook throttle and (fast idle or what you want to call it) cables pull the throttle bodies and down and the whole throttle assembly, both throttle with the brace that is in the way of the of Doom, will come I don’t know if there is to get them out without tilting the but I think it should work.

there is a cable ziptied to the body brace; you need to cut the So now you know how to do it the intelligent way. The says that you can get the engine and out of the frame as one unit without off the throttle bodies. It may be possible, but I no idea how. Unless you the throttle bodies off, you move the engine back, and you move it forward or down it fouls the down tubes on the

If you manage to do it, Id be interested in knowing And bending the down tubes or off the cylinders is cheating. Theres stuff you have to do before you can the frame rails off. You much have to take the tank off at this point, if you already. Remove the black grille at the front of the tank and the 10 mm at the back, pull the tank and lift it, but gently.

You may have to get one of the drinkers to bend the plastic at the front of the tank out a bit if they on the horn (horns in my case, I a pair of Fiamms that get the attention of dozy drivers on phones; I highly recommend Support the back of the tank a block of 2×2 or similar,

Then follow Holts for disconnecting the plastic hose-to-tank ( Give the thing a with some kind of dry — PTFE — use two pliers — flat preffably — one used for and the other one for pressing the outer straight backwards. No turning! works like an air-compressor connector

-when it’s to change the air filter you’ve do it anyway. (It’s said it CAN be without removing the tank. But I have the fingers of a surgeon, the of an owl and the patience of a sloth. ) Also easier done if the bike has standing for a couple of hours to fuel pressure. Also, unto NOLAGuzzis words of on the subject of getting the connector The problem is the pressure in the lines.

If you the fuel pump and turn the engine it will be easy to get the line fitting off. I can do it. Be careful not to break the plastic I think replacing them a new fuel pump.

And make to put something in between the front of the and the steering tube or you will up the front of the tank like I The two little hoses, one is a drain and the goes to the carbon evap I guess now that my carbon can is that line is now just a vent too.

Here are the two hoses. Easy to disconnect, to get back on:

Disconnect the multi-pin (on the right-hand side) that to the fuel pump in the tank, and it up next to the red plastic elbow so it wont get hung up on anything you lift the tank:

Lift the off, and be very careful you put it down that you dont the red plastic elbow. Its fine on a surface, the elbow is tucked up the sides of the tank.

Disconnect the switch cable, located on the top of the Lift the rubber cap and pull the towards the front of the bike. this is an absolute pig to get at when the is back together.

The bottom points to the place where the arm return spring goes. I I keep going on about its just that its a pain to I know because I did just

Cut the wire tie holding the grounding on top of the gearbox.

Disconnect the sidestand switch (you may not need to do if you are taking only the right-hand rail off). Theres a of wire ties that the hoses and wires to the frame Id cut them off by the time I took picture. Obviously, they go the hose is dimpled and/or are marks on the frame.

Remove the screw holding the two wires to the clutch bell

OK, back to the frame rails. is pretty straightforward. Remove the plastic guard in front of the

Support the engine with a (a trolley jack is best, me). Remove the lower mounting bolts.

Jack the up ever so slightly, so that the not the frame rail, is taking the Remove the hex bolts connecting the frame rails to the front tubes. Cut the wire tie first, You need to do this on the right-hand only if you are using NOLAGuzzis

or if you are skillful like Muzz and got the of Doom out without having to the engine.

Remove the long bolt at the bottom of the engine.

the engine gently with the and there you are; the rails off without too much of a fight. If you both frame rails off probably even if you took one off), you now have a choice: a stand that will the engine in place, like so:

Or until the precarious arrangement of of wood on the jack falls and the engine drops and gets in the frame, and then build a that will hold the in place. Guess which one I If you used a trolley jack, it probably be stable enough on but the jack would really get in the some kind of stand is stable and easier to work

By the way, if I had to build this again, I would extend the piece and also extend it and aft; it worked OK as I had it, but it would been much more that way. To get the gearbox remove the upper mounting (this is a long through

The arrows point to the gearbox plug and to what I think is the switch wire. Once the is out, given that the switch is so difficult to get at, maybe the

wire about here and a connector might not be a bad idea; it hurt, and if the neutral switch or plays up, you can disconnect it here and about it. Of course youll have to go back to the old way of finding by feel. Anyway, I thought Id it.

Undo the rest of the screws the clutch bell housing to the (including the Screw of Doom), the gearbox back (to get the splined end of the mainshaft clear of the clutch) and And there you are. If you are NOLAGuzzi or you have long since had the on the bench, but in any case this is youll be looking at: Note how the end of the box is sitting on blocks of wood; is because otherwise it would be on the clutch operating lever, flops about annoyingly and well get bent or broken if you about it or drop the gearbox or

I should have taken it off just a cotter and split-pin but never did. Incidentally, if you are on replacing the air filter, this is a time to do it. Access is usually but with this much taken off, its not so bad. for another beer, and while you are there sipping, you may as well the clutch pushrod (arrow) out it falls out.

Note it has a thick end and a thin end; you see here is the thin end, goes up against the clutch workshop manual, p. 5-18). in the parts list, this is the wrong way round, i.e. the thick end up against the clutch.

See the part of this thrilling to find out how to take the gearbox and fix it.


Put beer down, time to get Go to Section 5.1 of the workshop manual, it tells you how to disassemble the gearbox. The picture shows the innards of the from which the clutch housing has somehow disappeared.

So you back a few pages, but no, thats all the engine, so you look at the section and, sure enough, on page 5-12, right the section about taking the to bits and reassembling it, is the section on how to the clutch bell housing which you have to do before the gearbox apart. REALITY this is a Guzzi if you want in the sequence of the workshop manual, go and buy a this is the world of Luigilogic. OK, is where we are:

First job is to get nut off the mainshaft. The workshop manual, as shows that brevity is the of wit:

The little detail it is that Mr. White Gloves is US$ 250 worth of special tools, of which you have in your (you dont have the vice-held support either, but you do friends and some kind of my Black Decker Workmate was The bottom tool you can fake by a 33 mm hole through a 36 mm socket and welding a large cranked to it (cost me US$ 65 at a local machine plus the socket); the top one you could in a similar fashion if you had a clutch lying around, otherwise you much have to shell out US$ 180 your local Guzzi has one and will lend you it, or

else you can make a tool that the splines on the mainshaft well that both it and the shaft survive some seriously treatment. With these two in hand, you knock back the tab on the for which you need a hammer and (aka an old screwdriver). Once the tab is of the slot in the mainshaft, you apply the two tools, like so:

You apply all of pressure, but even with you on one and your friend on the other, nut is going nowhere; Mr. Guanti is evidently Superman on his day off. So you use Tool No. 3:

Even then you to use some serious violence to get the nut part of the problem is that it is to hold the gearbox firmly, makes the official torque of 100 Nm feel more like 300 Nm. The vice-held support might been handy here. eventually the nut loses the fight, and you the hex screws that secure the housing (page 5-12). you remove the gasket is up to you; I and most of what I found was quality control at MG is not what Id it to be:

I dont appear to have the next step. See page 5-3 of the which in this instance is much grounded in reality:

The prescribed holding tool is the US$ 180 and I suppose you could do this without it if you had a vice with jaws. You also need a socket, I forget the size:

You are now

Remove the layshaft gear (on the if you havent already. For the next few you can again follow the manual:

Not what the pawl is, but what the its whatever is there; I never it out, so I didnt find And idle gear indicator is much the same as neutral so I took that out, it is vulnerable where it is. Note how Guanti Bianchi leaves the he has taken off just lying on the workbench; either his bench is cleaner than mine, or he has to clean things up, or

he works in the Quality Control Department and much give a toss the bits are dirty or missing he puts them back Whatever the truth, do not follow his especially with gearbox

Once you figure out that the instruction with the next means is not Loosen the locknut and the eccentric screw in order to the preselector but rather Loosen the and remove the eccentric screw is there for positioning the preselector, it more sense. Before you the locknut, scribe a mark on the head and a corresponding one on the gearbox so that you can line the two up, this save you a lot of worry on reassembly.

From here on in, if you go away the job for more than about 15 say, put the gearbox in a position the oil can drain out. Several I thought Id got all the oil out, but the minute you working on it, either oil drips all the place, or else it fills up the bit you are to work on. Hey, its a Guzzi.

And is the Holy Grail, the innards of the clockwise from top: (primary shaft), layshaft shaft), oil tube, selector preselector fork).

And there is the of the problem: jammed teeth on the It should not be possible for it to be in the position above. The two teeth which are to be sprung and engage on the selector shaft were neither; were totally jammed in the position, which fits the perfectly: the gear lever can freely, but its actions are not transmitted to the mechanism.

This is the difference the new preselector fork (left) and the old one

This is where the manual a break from reality. It

As Muzz discovered, there is no way on good earth that the fork comes out at that

I managed to get mine out (just), but was only because the teeth jammed. Normally, you cannot get teeth back that they are sprung in such a way if one of the teeth goes back, the goes forward. Anyway, this means is that you to lift the selector drum so you can get the new preselector fork in, and then get it to

To help you picture what is here is where the preselector sits, and what it does, as I it:

The preselector rotates the selector which in turn moves the selector forks, which slide the gears along the shafts into the various of the cogs that produce the gears and neutral. Clockwise top right: pins on which teeth engage; selector on which each detent a gear (this one is third); for eccentric screw; slot limits range of movement of shallow detent representing therefore, the detent between and the one that represents third is gear.

I hope that sense. In this picture you can see the detents for all the gears except obviously, there isnt one first and fifth, so its easy to out which one is which. Just for here are the component parts of the

Heres the little bugger after I got it out; if it hadnt jammed, it would still be in its Then again, if it hadnt jammed, I wouldnt be doing any of

The blocking ring (spacer, is still in place (right). care when passing the shaft down the hole, is an O ring there (barely The screws inside the gearbox all to be held in with Loctite, and of them are hard to get at, so if your hex have a ball end, so:

and it starts to feel at all like the key slip out of the screw while you are to turn it, my advice would be to the ball end off until you have a flat hex end that fits into the screw head, and is much less likely to out and round it off (believe me, it happens; I went to change the oil in the forks, the hex on the bottom yoke (triple rounded off. It took an driver to get that one out, not a option with these screws inside the gearbox.).

get carried away with the though: there is one case you pretty much have to use a key (see below). Enough of time to get oily. First, the plastic tube, and undo the hex (left-hand arrow in picture and its companion on the other side of the (not shown).

To get the selector free, you need to undo screws. As the famous author said, but should have Easy screws are all alike; difficult screw is difficult in its own Here is the proof.

Screw 1: 5 mm hex screw, right slap-dab in the of all three shafts and behind the oil deflector, about here:

You a hex key with a shaft at least 150 mm Mine came out fairly Muzz put up quite a fight. this and the other two difficult keeping downward pressure on the hex key you get the screw free is important; its best to put a ring spanner on the key and use to turn it, while having one of the friends push down on the Anyway, this is how you get it out (see I mean about getting rid of the

A longer key would be nice; I only get about an eighth of a because the handle of the key hit the ends of the Once the screw is out, you need something magnetic to it out with, unless you get lucky.

2: This screw, 4 mm this is relatively straightforward; for a start, you can see the thing. However, you cant get a hex key it square, because it is partially by the selector drum, so you dont much choice except to use a key.

So, you pray to Santa Rosetta (parts list, table 15, no. 31) Luigi did not use too much Loctite, sure your ball-ended 4 mm hex key is in shape, and have a go at turning it putting as much downward on the key as you possibly can. Mine out fairly easily; if yours I dont know what to beyond being circumspect.

is the nut that holds down the arm that bears against the star. The nut comes off easily, but you pull the arm off its pivot shaft, the jumps out. No problem, you need to be ready for it.

I say no problem; may beg to differ. When he took nut off, this is what he

The stud was held at the two points and the top of the stud, with the nut attached, was on the of going flying into the with spectacularly destructive (not just for the bike your gearbox lock up is somewhere between frightening and Mine looked fine. 3: Finally, there is one more 4 mm hex screw.

Although the access to one is much better than for the two, it caused me more than anything else, the Screw of Doom. I tried the hex key got its neighbour out, but it felt it might be slipping, so I ground the end off the the screw still didnt to move.

Eventually, I decided it simply wasnt worth the risk of rounding the screw so bought an extra-long 4 mm hex key and a 4 mm ratcheting spanner, 200 mm long, both by Snap-On, who supposedly make the tools in the U.S. I ground the end off the key, so that the end was square, nice sharp edges, and sure that the key was square the screw, and into it as far as it would go.

It was a tight fit, so a tap or two with a had it in there firmly. Next, we a propane blowtorch at the general of the screw for about 10 minutes, and got it and hot.

I then had a friend on the key with his entire weight I applied pressure to the spanner. with all that, I was putting a lot of force on the other end of spanner and to think we were wasting our when the Loctite suddenly way with a crack. and that was The nice thing about arrangement is that keeping the key in and turning it are two separate operations, and the spanner all the way down, near the you eliminate the twisting and waggling in using such a long, key.

With that, I was I could lift the selector far enough to get the new preselector fork in, so had no to go any further. Muzz, however, had decomposing gears, so he had to go in further:

He no followed the comprehensive instructions in the page 5-6

Thats it. No pictures, no you are very much on your I shall let Muzz add something if he feels so inclined. (Keep it Muzz, this is a family

For me, this is where reassembly WARNING: Before you do anything, pages 5-7 and 5-8 of the Guzzi manual getting out of order at this is not clever. That is the voice of talking.

However, ignore the first sentence; leave the drum loose, youll to lift it one more time.

Not what all this spring is about, but I did it anyway. The distances near enough the same; if werent, I doubt that need calipers to determine it.

Not the of instructions, but fairly clear the picture: the solid side of the screw toward the pivot of the At that point the screw is in much as far as it will go.

I wish it all that simple. However, it

The first bit is easy enough, if, like so much in the manual, it over a lot of little details. you do is lift the selector drum and the preselector shaft into its while fiddling the spring on the of the preselector over the eccentric Its not hard, just a bit fiddly and it helps to have someone to the drum up.

I dont think it matters where the preselector up relative to the pins it operates on the drum (see picture, 36). The second part much doubt and debate, but we got it The bit about rotating the screw 90 what it says: back the screw off a quarter turn its position in the previous step, and the locknut.

If you scribed a mark on the and the gearbox casing like you supposed to, its easy to line the up; if not, you do as I did, and eyeball it. NOTE: I hadnt noticed before, but Mr. Guanti Bianchi take the clutch operating off any more than I did.

the manual pretends that you can get the out without disturbing any other of the gearbox, it doesnt mention all the bits back together you had to take apart before you get the preselector out. So forget the for a bit, back to reality. you reinsert the three screws you had so much trouble getting I used Loctite on them, up to you you do.

The two 4 mm screws are simple, the 5-mm one a bit so, because you have to get it way down between the shafts to get it in. What you is Kevins Patent Tool, a of dowel or similar whittled to make it a nice tight fit in the in the head of the screw, like so:

a dab of grease on the washer to prevent it off the screw, you can then get the screw in its hole way down there the shafts, like so:

Tighten it up the 5 mm hex key, and thats that. reinsert the two screws that down the plate below the (arrow; its mate is round on the side of the layshaft). Then the sprung arm with the roller on the end bears against the selector (page 40).

This is not but it is a pain: you have to be careful while you are refitting the arm, the spring round it (arrow), the end of the spring, which bears up the gearbox casing, will out over the edge of the casing and easily scratch the mating

Next, refit the plastic oil which has a notch that against the hex screw marked so you cant go wrong. Back to the

The prescribed torque is 10 Nm (7.5 In real life, it looks this:

I have no idea why I the gasket on the wrong section of the (right); obviously, it should be on the with the gears in it (left), the way GB has it, otherwise the gasket falls off you lower the right section on to the one.

Prescribed torque is 65 Nm (48 Life is much easier if you have the splined special

With impeccable Italian we move to page 5-15 of the

It appears from the parts that a sieger is an o-ring 14, no. 14). If you kept the parts in it should be obvious. I cant I hope I didnt forget it.

And the ring is presumably the spacer goes inside the oil seal the nut; it goes in tapered first.

And page 5-16

that this is the first that Loctite (thread paste) has been mentioned.

I took the breather plug so the last instruction did not apply. torque is 10 Nm (7.5 lb/ft) for the screws, and 100 Nm (75 lb/ft) for the mainshaft Again, you need special this time both of

And that is pretty much it. here on in, reassembly is pretty the reverse of removal; I cant of anything that was particularly or obscure (unless, of course, you the engine, in which case its a different story, which not belong here). Feel to let me know if Ive missed anything, or if you something youd like to

Based on my experience, I’d say anybody wanting to take a 750 gearbox apart who doesn’t access to anything fancier a reasonably-equipped home workshop and a hammer needs the following tools: 1. The Guzzi tool for the splined end of the input shaft need this twice dismantling, and twice during or some home-made facsimile 2. The Guzzi tool for loosening/tightening the nut on the shaft, or else the home-grown a 36-mm socket with a long cranked handle on it and with the centre hole out to about 33 mm so that the head of the Guzzi tool will through it (needed once for and once for reassembly).

I bought a set of cheapo sockets sold for car suspensions and steering apart and had a machine shop put the tool 3. 4 and 5 mm hex keys, with a shaft about 200 mm long, and with a or similar, so that you can put a lot of pressure on the key it going out of square. 4. A 4 mm ring so that you can turn the 4-mm hex key and close to the screw head, to twisting and waggling.

I paid US$ 27 (!) for mine, which is the only one I could find — there is not much of a market for spanners (this one is sold for adjusting Ford headlights). final odds and ends:

refitting the preselector and bolting down, but before putting the back on (in other words, here): I spun the shafts to make sure everything was freely; they moved fine. I then tried to different gears by moving the drum so that the roller on the arm that bears up against the star was in the corresponding position, effectively changing gear.

worked fine, selector and dogs and all moving freely suddenly the whole thing and nothing would move. We freed it off, I cant how (nor can I remember what anything was in when it jammed), and it alone during the rest of the the next time anything was in the gearbox was when we checked to sure we had five gears and a when the gearbox was mated to the and both were fitted the frame.

I have no idea happened, but it all works now. We the gearbox with the selector in neutral; I have no idea this is right, or whether it which gear it is in when you the gearbox. Neutral has the advantage of easy to check if you can spin the shaft without the output moving, the gearbox is in neutral.

The of the preselector relative to the selector does not seem to matter, makes sense the preselector the same action every there is a change of gear, up or The important relationship is that the selector forks and the cogs, and I did affected that. I would liked to check whether I had gears and neutral before the gearbox back in the frame, but figure out how to do it.

The obvious way would be to fit the lever directly to the gearchange on the gearbox, but the diameters seemed to be different, and I was not about to risk the splines on either the shaft or the Once the whole thing was together and we started the bike, the died as soon as a gear was

Obviously the sidestand interlock was at eventually we found that one of the two in the female connector for the wire the sidestand had been pushed when we reconnected the connector; we pushed the pin back into the where it belonged, the problem was Finally, for about the first miles, the gearbox changed up but downshifts were crunchy, and neutral (or engaging first) the bike at a standstill was nearly it felt like the gearbox was

After that, and ever the gearchange has been just Who knows why that happened, I dont. I now have almost miles on the box, and it works In retrospect, it would have easier, and no more expensive, to bought a whole used (supposing I could find and slot it in, but it wouldnt have so educational. Plus, it might gone wrong just this one did.

Anyway, if you need to do this job and pray you dont I hope this help.

Moto Guzzi Breva 750
Moto Guzzi Breva 750
Moto Guzzi Breva 750

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