MZ Notes — Philadelphia Riders wiki

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MZ Skorpion 660 Sport
MZ Skorpion 660 Sport

From Philadelphia Riders


Torque Values

c/o Chris H. Roland @ Spare Co. and Galen @ Bikeworx:

Oil Drain 22 Oil Screws 9 Oil Filter Drain 7.2 Oil Cover Screws 7.2 Oil Filter Screw 3.6 Coarse Oil Filter 22 (Do not without new crush washers on Copper, 16mm ID, 20mm OD) cover bolts 7.6

Front 50 Pinch Bolts 10 Rear 80 Countershaft Sprocket 80



download the catalog as

go to page 38 to find their rotor for the Skorpion front.

Skorp front rotor is an EBC 316mm I have heard you can bolt on an R6 310 mm rotor in a pinch.

Parts Compatibility

Yamaha on part for several bikes. The 660 is a mix of xt600e, 660 raptor and other that are unique to that

c/o Bill Jurgenson: nope, the ist from the xtz which is much than the 660 raptor; it would be to say that the raptor uses the xtz Whatever, all the motor parts are parts or parts Yamaha put such as the totally unnecessary pump. There are no special or odd-ball seals anywhere on the so bearings and seals can be had from any supplier. I never order from a bike dealer that is just more

Swingarm and linkage is original Yamaha FZR 600 (3HE) strut exactly but needs a stronger one from a FZR 100o is just These things can usually be had from eBay.

The lower from that FZR 600 (3HE) fits exactly because where MZ got it and the swingarm, too. So, too, no need to look for a in a haystack or unqualified MZ dealer.

All brake parts can and should be with Brembo pumps and The only problem is the front which is used only on a few other bikes — a the I can think only of the Honda Of course there are aftermarket

Leaves only the electric which is basically CEV except for the parts directly connected to the The round headlight of the Tour is Yamaha and is virtually unbreakable as as you don’t fall down too Even then, only the or casing gets damaged; the and reflector are impervious and if it does the Diversion has the exact same

The stupid bull’s eye thing in the can be replaced with the same and shaped headlight from a xt600 (among others) it H4 bulb — and it is both and impervious to vibrations. The Denso CDI is in the xtz and that from the Yamaha SZR just as well as does of the the TDM:

TDM 3VD-82305-00 131800 12V TNDF14 G blue label

SZR 131800 6150 12V TDMF19 J label

Skorpion and xtz 3YF-82305-00 5040 12V TNDF13 F blue

Only the fork seals prove to be a problem, but then I changed mine for the first last year — 12 years and much use. Ask me to them if you seriously can’t then. I usually have or can get them at short notice.

that leaves really the plastic fairing parts and the protector on the swingarm as a real OEM MZ not outsourced at Yamaha or one of its dependencies Paioli or Brembo. Easy to make something yourself nylon to go there. Don’t bother to try and get fairing parts there are virtually no more to be had

For the Sport in the US, you can try to get the Beasley fiberglass fairing and seat cowl the originals disintegrate. Over in Europe at MLB. And of course you can try or ask here and in other fora: the and dutch/belgian fora where you can english if you want: german: belgian/dutch:

Almost no need for aMZ dealer; any Yamaha dealer will and do. I order all those specific OEM I need from my Yamaha too. It is quite another if one needs a competent workshop.

are few and far between, regardless of make. If you one, regards less of be nice to him, take business there, recommend him to And he won’t send you away because you didn’t buy your (he doesn’t sell anyway) in his

Anybody who does is best entirely.

c/o Emilino A: Yes, the mz is a xtz The raptor uses the exact cylinder and head (same for the coolant oulet but that But the cases are completely different. The uses the same clutch gasket as the xt600e, the crank is the same as the xtz, There are other bits that I only know this I could not find parts so I them up at work (when I was a mechanic) If someone really some engine part let me I can go look for a parts interchange that I made some ago. Yamaha is famous parts.

You can actually bolt a head on an xt600 but you will no water pump which you can on too. Gotta love

Tank Vent/Overflow

c/o Bill It is not primarily an overflow, it is the tank No point in emptying the tank to what you will not be able to see at all the vent is an integral part of the of the tank. THE only problem the can have (and does) is not at all because it is clogged.

The female threaded fitting in the of the tank is stainless, the screwed-in aluminium and these two can react (electrolysis) causeing the nipple to so severly that it is only a of dirt. That has happened to one of my and I have seen it elsewhere. The two are fine, including the oldest one 1994.

Don’t fill to the — the handbook points out, keep the fuel with the bottom of the filler Whatever fuel or condensation gets into the concentric of the gas cap fixture will run down the hose which should be and be quite long, routed between motor and swingarm. Any from outside (rain, ) will also collect in ring.So, be sure to wipe out any there and not to fill to the brim.

If you to get rid of the problem once and for all and get a better as well, put the vent on top of the gas cap fixture and off the internal vent with a This is the tank the corroded nipple which hairpulling till we discovered it. The for the top vent are over-the-counter items for controlling units.

Putting foam (? better term in into the gas tank is basically a idea and mandatory in real because it keeps the fuel jostling around and thus the balance during curves in succession. I have it in the green shown above but not in the others.

Parts Compatibility

c/o Bill

Does a Shop Manual for the even exist? yes in German and hard to get.

THere is a SZR 660 manual to download as PDF to be found in places on the net:

is a Yamaha dealership near me refuses to even look at the because of this. I would not let the of them look at my Yamaha,

I have noticed that are fewer and fewer websites cater to the Skorpion. To be expected the thing is no longer in production. everything you need can be gotten a good Yamaha dealer. are very few real MuZ parts you or that ever break. the rear swing arm and linkage are OEM parts from the FZR600.

the strut from that is a direct replacement, too. fork is Paioli and Paioli, Marchesini and Olins, belong to which belongs to Yamaha. The crap MuZ (others, too, Aprilia) used is best by much better (tho not expensive) Brembo items as as the Grimeca … starts to act up.

MZ Skorpion 660 Sport
MZ Skorpion 660 Sport

Or considering that you are dealing your own security.

From on the MZOG: you can get a reusable oilfilter for the here: No idea how it is, and how many paper filters can you buy for

According to this website: KN pod filters to fit the Skorpion are parts rc-1820 and rc-1250. I haven’t this myself, so good with the jetting.


Speedo drive cable for monster M600/750/900 local Duc 1 cm (1/2 ) shorter but a perfect fit by-Evert Duistermaat

Changing Oil

c/o Bill Jurgenson:

Anyone instructions on changing fork oil on a

You have to remove each entirely to empty the oil out; is no drainplug at the buttom. Before you anything, crak the two fork screws at the top. Then you can to loosen the allenhead bolts in the one side as a time.

This prove to be a daunting experience. As as not, these cannot be rahter the hex holes get reamed to I have seen this far too Before ruining them, them up with a blowtorch or welder, then serve a couple of smart blows and try to undo.

One case I had in the shop, the axle not be screwed out of the right fork I ended upremoving both complete with wheel, pulling the left leg and wheel the axle. A could then the axle in a vise. heat the end of the leg the welder and with considerable undo the leg.

What to from this: zinc and aluminium are prone to electrolysis and oxidation. Always use suitable on threads or proper grease for the Best also not to use zinc screws.

back to the fork. Use a oil Wilbers recommends SAE 20 oil and 160mm air for … Sport. WP SAE 15 oil and 160mm. My own for the Tour dictates 150mm and SAE 20 Wilbers springs. With the leg compressed all the way and the spring removed, the oil to the requisite level measured the top.

Extend to limit, put in the and spacer and screw on top plug. forget to tighten this once the leg is back in place.

be OK for the Traveller/Tour, too. They longer forktubes and that is why the are longer. If you find the fork too too progressive, more air space, if too less.

If too squishy heavier too sluggisch thinner oil. But all, since you have to it apart anyway, replace the with progressive springs Wilbers/WhitePower/Wirth/etc. Catalogue items.

Forgot to say that in you need to pull the leg in and out a few times. when refilling. Do this you have filled it up and be careful; do it or it will spray the contents out. messy.

hidden fuel filter

I had no end of with poor running of my until I discovered the ‘hidden To remove and clean: Remove and undo float bowl Remove the float by pushing the pin out in the of the arrow. WARNING! Don’t the pin as the ‘ears’ that hold the pin in are fairly fragile and can snap if you too hard, especially if there a of air inside it due to a casting fault.

ask! Remove the float and remove the needle valve. to the needle valve seat a cross headed screw overlaps the seat and holds it in Undo this screw and the seat out carefully with (it’s got an ‘o’ ring on it so try not to it). You should now find the a dome of fine nylon at the end of the seat.

Clean this and everything, remembering to replace the pin the direction of the arrow. Check the height (25 — 27mm) and the float bowl. The screws are M4 x 12 and worth replacing them Allen screws (hex cap), preferably made of and use a fine smear of copper on the threads (to stop them Allen screws are less to chew up than cross and it SHOULD be possible to undo in situ.

I would advise all of MZs with the 660 engine to fit a good fuel filter into the line. It’s a lot easier to one of them than take carb apart!

MZ Skorpion 660 Sport
MZ Skorpion 660 Sport


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