Wildgoose Chase Moto Guzzi Tips and Tricks

16 Apr 2015 | Autor: | Comments Off ja Wildgoose Chase Moto Guzzi Tips and Tricks
Moto Guzzi Jackal

ABS Plastic Repair Tips

Black abs saddlebag repairs can be accomplished with a repair kit called duramixsemi rigid plastic repair. the kit contains a tube of two part solution that mixes as it is plunged out of the tube. the mix hardens in fifteen minutes and dries to a semi hard plastic that matches black abs perfectly. the saddlebags on my v11ev had some deep scratches which i filled with this mix and the results were great. the mix filled the scratches and did not need painting since it turns into a black abs. the kit comes with a plastic mesh that can be used if a hole has to be filled or reinforced. my son has a sport bike with abs fairings and we used the mix to repair a hole about two inches in diameter and it was strong and flexible. i purchased the mix at an automotive paint supply store. the brand name is duramix #4049. the manufacturer is polymer engineering corp. 1630 fiske pl. oxnard, calif. 93033 (800-537-9204)

V11 EV Air Filter tip from Wildgoose: Just installed the Amsoil air filter (P/N 1938) and I give it an A. Very noticeable difference. The bike breathes better, runs smoother and increased gas mileage by 2 millas. Call 1-800-777-7094 They will ask for a customer #, give them # 502910 and order air filter # s1938.

V11 EV Air Filter from Steve Saady:

The KN Air filter part number for stock 1064cc air boxes? It is 33-2682, and crosses w/ Fiat part number Fiat 4434868. I have my KN box here, it has 33-2682 on it, and if you go to

This is available for about 55 USD at Moto International, www.MotoInternational.com and other Moto Guzzi dealers and shops.

Amsoil Oil Filter Tip from Lowery: Amsoil now lists Motorcycle specific (Moto Guzzi Specific) oil filters. New, deep sump bikes part #’s are SMF 125, and for older bikes, use part number SMF124. Price is $8.75 each.

V11 EV Oil Filter tip from Wildgoose:

Replacement oil filters that work great are either the AC-Delco PF53, or the Fram 6022. I personally run the AC in mine.

Other compatible filters are: Fram PH3614, Mobil-1 (M1-102),Deutsch (D-364),STP (SMO-22(, Bosch (3330) and Super Tech (ST3614). If you opt for a chrome filter, you can use the one for a new Harley VRod. These look good and work good on external oil filter kits.

Amsoil now lists a motorcycle specific, Moto-Guzzi specific oil filter. Newer deep sump bikes part#SMF 125. For older bikes it is part#SMF 124. Price is $8.75.

Fuel Filter tip for EV from Wildgoose: Replace the fuel filter with NAPA Part number 3008. Almost an exact fit. I had to put a little tape around the filter so it would fit snug in the holder. Napa cost – $15.00, Guzzi cost – $70.00.

I’ll go with NAPA. Probably will fit Bassa, Jackal (Special Sport, Stone) as well. The Wix number is 33008. AutoZone FF600 $9.99 with washers.

Battery Tip from Andy Hill:

I sent this one to the club newsletter awhile back, but maybe it has a

place here, too. this is for the guys using garden-tractor or car batteries

in their bikes.

These batteries lack a decent vent system- they have small slots in the

caps, resulting in noxious fumes eating the paint off the frame,

battery tray, and the insides of the side covers. all I did was dig up a T

an elbow fitting from my scrap vacuum line pile. [used on cars].

drill out the vent slots with a 3/16 drill bit, blow the plastic chips out

of there, then install the T in one cap, and the elbow in the other.

connect the two with a short piece of hose, then run a long one from the

remaining leg of the T down the frame to the air.

Takes longer to describe it than to do it! my Eldo came to me with allot

of corrosion in the battery area, but looks great now- maybe this works. )

Andy hill

Followup from Terry Troutt The tractor batteries not only don’t vent well, I’ve had one blow up

right in the bike. I now buy Wal-Mart motorcycle batteries that match the Harley listing. They seem to work well. #ES16B about $35.00.

Battery wire up grade tip from LA Robertson:

While recently going though some starter woes I got a suggestion that the original wires may not be up to snuff so I went to my friendly sears and got to looking at the lawn mower starter and I noticed that the cable was much heaver than on my Ambo. My original wires seemed to be about 10 gage. I am using a Lawnmower battery (vented of course) So I went to Auto zone and bought some 4 gage universal starter wire 24 long one red one black and hooked them up now it cranks hot cold when ever I need the total cost was about $10.00

LA Robertson

Odyssey Battery Tip from John Henry:

I am aware that a popular replacement for the original battery in several Guzzis is the Odyesssy model PC-625. I am also aware that you can no longer use the tool tray that comes under the seat.

For 30 bucks more, the Odyessy model PC-925-L is the correct replacement for what, (at least) came in an ’01 EV. Probably the same for ’98 ’99 too. Not sure about others. Because the terminals are a differernt angle, it is a PITA to get the bolts in. Also, the dimentions are just different enough that you cannot use the hold down.

It was necessary to put the tank bolt back without it having it hold the tool tray too. But the tool tray still fits under the seat ok. Everything is pretty secure and because of how the terminals are oriented, I see no danger of shorting out against the frame or anything.

I believe the difference between the 925 and the 925-L is that the terminals are swapped around. There is also a designation with that called MJ. That means the batt has a metal jacket. (The dimentions don’t change.) The number would look like this PC-925-LMJ.

With or without the metal jacket, you would want the L designation so as to have the terminals on the proper ends.

By comparison, it is my understanding that with the 625, it is necessary to use some styrofoam or something to take up the extra space and stabilize the battery from moving around. Possibly above it too. It also has about half the capacity of the 925.

I know many people opt for the smaller of the two, both for weight savings and cost. I felt I wanted to retain my tool tray and also have more capacity for running the extras like GPS, XM Radio, and heated vests/gloves. (Yes plural, for two at times.) Before you comment on the last part, I understand that will not keep the battery from discharging when running around in town. What it will do is have more reserve so that it would not reach a critical low as quickly.

A new volt meter awaits installation also in order to monitor that situation.

There is of course the inexpensive garden tractor battery, HD Battery, etcetera.

I like the idea that the Odyessy will not leak, make fumes, or corode the stuff near it. Also they bill the 925 as having an expected service life of 5-8 ya je̲ya! $130.00 doesn’t seem so bad for that kind of life. It also has a shelf life of two years which means it will not be necessary to charge it once a month for us northerners who cannot ride year round.

I thought I might throw this out there for anybody interested. I am aware that we all have different reasons for what we do to our bikes, so this might not fit your plan. But hey, that’s what it’s all about.

Zoom Zoom,

John Henry

’01 EV

V11 EV front wheel bearing replacement by Wildgoose:

I just recently had to replace the front right wheel bearing on my EV. This a standard bearing that I was able to acquire from Napa. Part number 6304 2RS (2 rubber seals).

Same price as a Guzzi dealership ($49), but I don’t have a close dealer, so I didn’t have to wait for shipping.

Actualización – This same bearing price should be $13 or less from bearing house or Grainger. I have also seen the 6304 2RS listed in JC Whitney for $6.

Another Bearing tip from Ron Bishop: -new

Save a buck on bearings. Check your yellow pages for ‘bearings’. Got SKS wheel bearings for my G-5 at a bearing specialty shop, saved 50% Loop frame generator bearings are the same as Volvo generator bearings.

Less than $5.00 a copy. Take the old bearing with you when you go shopping.

Here is a tip for those who want to be sure motorist see them braking. There are several blinking brake lights available and most cost quite a lot. I found in an Advance Auto parts store(and others) a rack with items labeled FAST and FEROUS as in the movie I would guess. I bought a light that has red blinking LEDs and a center white strobe light that lights when I hit my brakes.

Really gets motorist attention and the light is DOT approved and legal in all 50 states. Easy to mount and wire and it only cost $25.00. Measures about 3/4 thick and 2 long. Ride Well Joe

Brake Light Visibility Tip from Roy in Germany:

I have a flashing rear brake light from signalfly. there is a part of it that mounts on the back of your helmet with a steady light and when you hit your brakes it has a line of leds that flash. the sender is mounted on the rear of the bike. it is a line of sight transmitter hooked into the brake light. it is a bit pricey but really gets the message across, oh yes it comes with rechargeable batteries and a charger. individual parts are available also.

Roy in Germany .

Brake Tuning Tip from John Wells:

After looking for some time for a procedure for fine tuning the connecting linkage on the front brakes for optimum performance, I found the following on Paul Friday’s UK site for the Nuovo Falcone (http://www.devce.demon.co.uk/falcone.htm ). Made more sense than other explanations I’ve found, and worked terrific on the Eldo and Ambo I’ve tried it on so far.

Front brake performance on the ’73 Eldo was less than perfect, with a fair bit of lever travel from engagement to real stopping power, tendency to squeal at low speed, and suddenly grab with slight additional effort. Ambo police just weak performance on front stopper.

Blocked/jacked up the front end so the wheel just cleared the ground, released the cotter key and pulled the pin closest to the end of the brake tie rod that adjusts, and locked the wheel with the cable adjuster so that wheel can just be turned with reasonable effort. Then adjust tie rod length so that with lever on second shoe engaged by hand you get about twice as much resistance to wheel turning as with one shoe. **Check it with the pin installed, not just by eye, as there is a tiny bit of unavoidable play in the linkage. Pin everything back up and back off cable adjuster again. Result: about as good a front brake as you could want without discsgreat feel and progressive action, just like the designer intended. (Discovered the Eldo had uneven pressure on shoes, and Ambo was definitely braking with one shoe only!!)

Paul Friday’s original instructions: Setting up the Twin-Leading Shoe Front Brake

Following a recent embarrassing meeting with an MOT tester, I became aware of the need to set up the twin-leading shoe front brake, and in fact it could not be easier.

The problem is that unlike a single leading shoe which automatically holds both shoes against the drum to almost exactly the same degree, the twin-leading shoe can be used with the owner oblivious of the fact that only one of the shoes is in fact in proper contact.

SO to set the twin-leading shoe front brake, remove the split pin through the pivot pin on the connecting rod at the end nearest the inline adjuster. Then tighten the cable adjuster on the lever or the front brake plate so the brake (for one of the shoes anyway) is hard applied.

Then slacken off the locknut to the clevis and alter the position of the clevis on the connecting rod so that the hole through the clevis lines up through the lever when the other shoe is applied by hand.**(NOTE my refinement to this technique aboveJW) When this is so apply the lock nut on the connecting rod and reassemble the mechanism with new split pins wherever you have disturbed them. Then re-adjust the cable for use. The brakes will probably take two days to bed in then WOW.

John Wells in PA

Breva Tankbag Rain CoverUnless your tankbag is filled to include the expansion portion, the raincover threatens to blow off the tank bag during at-speed riding. Instead of riding with one hand holding down the billowing tankbag cover, I brainstormed this idea to sew a buttonhole in the cover so it will slip over the hook and be held in place. Nu'bya, that won’t assist in the billowing aspect, but will keep me from feeling I have to ride with one hand on the cover.

This way it is secure should it blow up, it won’t blow off!!

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