GT750 Performance Improvements or «Water Buffalo Possessed»

22 Мар 2015 | Author: | Комментарии к записи GT750 Performance Improvements or «Water Buffalo Possessed» отключены

Building a Water Buffalo


These modifications of the GT-750 water-cooled two-… 5 years of research and development, and numerous engine and chassis It must be remembered that in to acquire speed and handling, all must be examined. Some may not to completely modify their and therefore we cannot guarantee performance. Careful assembly and judgment will assure your machine will as well as ours.

It will be to obtain a Suzuki GT-750 manual in order to insure assembly and proper torque These dimensions will the same as on the standard machine otherwise instructed. All of the modifications been track and dynomometer and should give you the same

Again we emphasize careful and accurate modification.


A. Barrels

There are three types of barrels made for the The 1972 J with flange carburetors, the late J thru L, through 1974, spigot and M through B, 1975 through spigot barrel with exhaust timing. The early flange mounted is the easiest of the lot to The others require some and machining.

The ’76 and ’77 are also favorable since have more metal the water jacket and are therefore likely to be damaged if an error is

Alignment, welding and machining be done first and porting (SEE BARREL DIAGRAMS) The scheme has slightly more than the factory road of several years ago, and is the combination for all around performance. The we will be dealing with result in 88bhp at the rear and 105 at the crankshaft. Further modifications only entail more on the intake port and carburetor (from 32mm to 38mm).

The modifications will also the use of a close ratio gearbox and a sophisticated ignition system. All modifications for the engine are the same. The modifications with Lectron have given up to 138hp at the shaft and 109bhp sustained at the wheel.

Porting should diagram height in with. We begin with the exhaust Finished height of 32mm (1 should be measured with the at B.D.C. Caution must be when reaching maximum so that one does not break the water jacket (see diagram). This problem can be avoided by raising the port at a 30° angle.

The width of port is somewhat by the battle holes, but by ring flutter. The maximum that will avoid ring wear, is 52mm. We a 50mm oval with a chamfer around the edges. The of the port should be increased the other edge.

As a bit of caution, be to leave enough shoulder on the side of the port so the stock gasket has sufficient support.

ports are to be raised to a height of and are to be well chamfer. Accuracy be stressed enough and this The new top of the port must be flat and at 90° with the bore of the cylinder.

certain that whoever the transfer ports is very, good board is very and has a machining setup that mechanically and rigidly cut the roof of the It is essential that the difference the heights of the transfer ports and the port be within the range out of 16 ±.5 mm.

can be no variation from this range because the expansion are tuned to this split and any from port heights alter the effective tuning of the engine, either cutting slightly with a great in peakiness if the split is narrow, or powder considerably but with tractability in the split is increased. Do it the first time.

The intake should also be sized as in the diagram. Widening of the port is not If it is widened by enough to be significant, the skirt will no longer be enough to seal off the port.

The would be increased blowback and a of bottom-end the power. The floor of the should be lowered until the is 30mm high. The edges of the should be chamfer to improve

For AMA superbike, the volume of the intake will receive little because stock carburetors have to be used. Be careful not to meat out of the sides of the port to an extent that the port the width of the piston skirt, as previously. This is very

Also, be certain that the piston is fitted to the correct or the transfer ports passageways be shrouded, blowback will be increased, and power will by at least one-third. The window rib be retained but its length should be to 3/4 to 7/8 and blended to the cylinder liner. The opening should be matched to the mounting spigots.

For maximal the port should be the same as above at the piston. The volume be opened up considerably going out to a opening at the carburetor mount. The of the cylinder block where the are attached must be milled it is flush with the back of the

Then it should be milled in order to tilt the big carburetors up 15° and out of the way of the top of the crankcase. With the early flanged block this is a operation. With a later blocks, the spigots must be cut off and the that is left must be in with aluminum welding. milling can be done and the new, face can be tapped to accept a set of Mikuni mounted manifolds.

are available through most dealers from Rocky Supply. Match the Manifolds to the block. Either 38mm or Lectron carburetors will fit the manifolds without modifications. some modifications, a set of 40mm can be mounted. We have never them, but we may future.


Back to the AMA superbike. The carb spigot is to be fitted as shown in the diagram. It must be fitted as as possible and must clear the hump of the crankcase. The G.P. avoids this by having its tilted up some 15°.

If the bike is to compete in AMA superbike, the carbs must be used and If the bike is to be street ridden or is to in event to other than or drags, 32 or 34mm Mikuni VM carburetors or 34mm Lectron’s can be Our machine has 32mm stock (72 J thru 74 L model only). CV 1975 and on are totally useless. will be discussed later.

all welding, porting, boring if is done, the barrel is to be faced off to sure that all surfaces are The bottom first. 005 to .010 and the top. 020 to .030.

Barrel’s may from the factory, so be sure when the top is faced off that not too metal is removed. When the are fitted they should at least .020 clearance to the top of the block. Finally, all port are to be chamfered at .020 -.030 to avoid ring damage. All tubes must be removed.

The ports are to remain free obstruction, so remove the brass The transfer tubes are to be removed and We used 1/2-20×1/2 set screws.

The is now finished and ready for its Pistons.

It is that ’73 on pistons be If yours are within tolerance, will need to be modified. If the same modifications will The ’76 and ‘ 77 piston are and heavier and will withstand heat, so they are favorable. ’72 pistons has proven to be tricky and since the engine have to be dismantled anyway, the crankshaft should be modified to later pistons.

The ’72 in standard form will not high rpm. Stock Suzuki’s in 1972 had the same and were later modified. and on are acceptable.

The piston skirts are to be cut as shown in the appropriate diagram, and the piston should be micro or glass beaded. This eliminate surface fracture and oil, reduced friction and cooling. Piston clearance be .0005 over stock fitted for racing. Honing of the is recommended, and standard rings may be

It is and a blind recommended that the top ring the new. The old one may be left in the groove since only the top one any work. Do not leave the bottom empty.

If using new pistons, old of the same size can be used on the ring land. The pistons are now

B. Cylinder head

The cylinder should be left totally Raising compression ratios to sanity has caused more among two-… tuners any other modification. Among problems are detonation leading to pistons, blown gaskets. and heads. Remember we are dealing a stock engine whose compression ratio is 11.5-1 and we have already removed to .040 from the block.

You need to use the late style gasket part #11121 which will give 6.1-1 corrected. Any effort to use a compression ratio for sustained will result in a loss of due to overheating which results in a dense fuel mixture. The mentioned problems usually overheating.

Cylinder head can be modified as shown in a diagram to in sealing and in weight reduction (1 3/4 removed). Torque on larger should be 35 ft. lb. and on small bolts, as described in the GT-750 manual. The water bypass below the is to be blocked off since it is unnecessary.

An (Chrysler Corp.) thermostat of is used. It’s outer is to be cut down to fit the Suzuki housing. O.D. is 52mm Chrysler is 53mm). The head is ready.


The crankcases need little except for 1972. Water hole between cases not have O-rings as in later so care must be taken fitting the engine. SRIS in front of lower cases are to be and sealed. Remove the starter, the bypass should be sealed as should be all unnecessary covers and

It will also be necessary to a plug for the starter mounting The sure to clean all mating and used Suzuki No. 4 sealer closing the cases.

D. Crankshaft

with 1972 or early crankshaft will do best to the crank or get a new, later The old style crank can be identified by the washers between the rod on the crank Side movement is only or .030. The late style has no washers and about rods up to 1/8 sideways. The a rod is held in place by the pin thrust washers.

Give cranks are to be modified, be sure rods have lubrication on the small and enlarged. Also as in any of a high-performance engine, if the crankshaft has or more miles on it, seals be replaced or the entire crank should be renewed. The balancing can be left stock.

Our G.P. was lightened and re -balanced, but nothing was by it. We have, however, found to differ as much as 15 grams Suzuki uses four manufacturers to make rods. It will become necessary to out only this portion of which is to even out the rod weight by the lightest one, and then off enough material from the two to bring them down to the weight. Next, checkout alignment.

New cranks are often as as .007 off, while .001 to .002 is acceptable for

If you have installed new crank was perfectly aligned and your vibrates, you may be one of the unfortunate ones the 15 gram difference in rod weight. If low mileage crank was smooth, may be all you need. Poor balance with excessive crankshaft can result in a loss of as much as so spend the money to do the job right.

When fitting the crank the cases, locktiting of the bearing or spreading a thread lock on the will help eliminate on the crankcases at high rpm’s. rebuilding and old-style crank, the #3 seal must be replaced a late style #09263-38008 The old seal will have a associated with it that be discarded.

E. Carburetion

We have three different types of and have had good results all three. The question becomes one of To begin with, if the standard are to be used, they will extensive modification and can be made to well.

J, K, or L, ’72 through carbs only can be used. The and on CV carbs as mentioned earlier are responsive and flow being The other choice are VM type racing carbs and Lectron

It must be remembered that AMA require stock carbs, but can be All other associations have no Begin with, all carbs be mounted to the barrel with a rubber flange VM 30-34 (38 in the of a G.P. engine). All three of carbs will fit. intake tracks are not straight.

A carbon is actually 30mm in so it is necessary to bore them so are straight. This should be by reaming followed by hand Be sure not to exceed 1.25mm as further boring would through some lines and the carbs useless. Modify as (1) stock carbs bore an intake mouth as shown in

2.5 slide fitted with needles in top or 2nd notch, 159-R-O. type, posibly 159-R -C) jets, 45 to 50 pilot, increase needle to 3 or 3.3, adjust on the high extreme, air screws 1 1/2 to 3 turns, made jets from 160 to 200 depending on where or (2) VM Mikuni’s, bore and modify mouth as shown, all other to be the same as stock carbs removing air jets, if any. will be left as they except that road carbs are to be specified, 34mm can be

Needles vary from 5 to 7 series depending on what the requires. To the Lectron is more but more rewarding. They shown better performance the entire range with acceleration, however, cost is a factor.

They are not cheap.

The that are to be used inside may vary from engine to depending upon usage. out engine is used in competition, no air are used. Those who drive on the will find it necessary to fit

Dry KM’s are recommended, as large as can be

F. Ignition

The ignition chosen in our is a Lucas Rita LR105. It can be as a total loss, but it is recommended the charging system be retained in to keep spark and maximum The LR105 bolts on to wall timing should be set at 2.5mm of 3.0mm as indicated on the LR105

Standard points can be used and if limited to street and occasional but since ignition plays and part in the role of horsepower, an system is essential for serious Points are subject to wear and is timing changes. Springs can tension and float points, erratic spark and since are operated at the crankshaft speed and are on the end of the crank, they g subject to wear and crank vibration.

All of symptoms will cause form of engine failure, overheating to detonation and finally, The LR105 is an electronic trigger not by any points problem. Furthermore, all plugs fire at the same which keeps them

Timing is changed to 2.5mm for and develops the widest power and insurers safe engine

Any form electronic system can be and the results will be the same, firing of the plugs. The LR105 introduces some 30,000 or about twice is much as a system. The standard spark connectors in should be discarded these have resisters and be substituted with a racing or the ones from RM series

For spark plugs we followed the to be adequate and best performing; 290S2S, 310S2S; NGK B8EV, Autolite AG701, AG 901. were used, however must be checked carefully for circuits. KLG FE220 or FE265 found to be satisfactory, although not as as the first three.

As for modifying although our tests showed weakening, it was advised that an heavy-duty condenser be substituted for the ones g. that the stock gaps be replaced as previously One must also constantly for timing changes. Better it makes no sense to spend money on developing a superior only to have it destroyed by

G. Transmission

hence transmission is for street use or racing. Although its ratios are totally inadequate, our choice of engine modifications. desirable, a close ratio is not essential. Our best inexpensive is to change top gear. First, all gears and shaft forks as in the Suzuki shop manual.

and earlier transmissions can be modified by the later fifth gear. The will be changed by exchanging the gears for the newer 25-26, and #24250-31001. This will the jump from forth to gear smaller and less Lastly, the proper final as indicated in the gear ratio should be referred to for proper depending on what the application be.

As for lubrication, the standard 20w-40 is a adequate for all around use. For racers, ATF Dextron is better.


The GT-750 has one of the best clutches and in the but can be improved upon. The old-style plates will show of strain. They can be easily by the Barnett clutch plates or by plates parts #21441-45000.

Suzuki plates are heftier, the grabbier. Either way, are better than the all fiber The old-style spacer which is by a bushing should be replaced the ’75 and later model bearing #09263-51001 and #21251 The stock springs should be by Barnett MT-23 springs.

Of course all other clutch parts should be inspected as per the manual.

I. Exhaust System

The chambers outlined in the diagrams been tested to give the all-around results. They work with various carburetors from 32mm 39mm, will tolerate port timing changes and changes. With them our have developed as much as sustained at I. D. rear wheel. To them we chose .032 moly sheet metal at aircraft supply houses.

pipes for made for stock pipe U-bends of 2.0 O.D. 1 7/8 welded to Suzuki T. 500 header that are 1 7/8 O.D. 1 3/4 I.D.

If the tubing cannot be found, one can get with using the T-500 alone.

Mounting should be with springs and the use of the exhaust as shown in the diagram. The rear or of the can be supported by using Suzuki MX and welding adjoining tabs to the Silencers can be made oil shown or as weld on’s from JR, or Torque Eng. We used and found them to be the best but loudest.

They cannot be on the street. For the street rider and racer, chambers can be routed in the configuration, but for road racing method does not give ground clearance. All three must be mounted under the between the floor rails.

The to allow clearance of frame, tire, whenever.

J. Lubrication

is much room for argument but we will state what has for us. For street use we used Suzuki Castrol injection oil, R Bore injection oil, set stock. Drags, Castrol in the injector, pump set stock.

racing, Castrol R-30 in the 32:1 in tank and pump set We found synthetics to be extremely showing the most wear and the heat control. The injection for street use were better and R, although messy, was the best after a solid 8 hours of work. Castrol R ONLY is for road racing. We have it for 15 years and have not yet found better.

One should be cautious using mix that is more 12 hours old. It begins to and reduces the octane rating of the as well.

K. Cooling System

The cooling system needs attention, but it will need modification. Remove the water from case to head. the water pump if it has seen than 3000 miles, and pre-1975 pumps with Kit #17400-31830. Use water only water pump lubricant, 4 oz.

Water pump lubricant can be in any auto supply house. oil can also be used in the same Suzuki Bars Leak can be used if any minute leaks but care should be taken if repeated often, it may clog the

To save weight, the radiator can be welded directly atop the side of the radiator and all extra can be removed.

Part II: Chassis

We now completed the engine, and now are ready to 100bhp into a chassis for 60bhp. We have enough to reach 150 mph without streamlining, for which the chassis was not design. In to make riding a little frightening without the cost of a and expensive chassis, we have the following modifications to make the chassis as liveable and safe as

Keep in mind that who plan to compete in AMA superbike use a standard frame which can be

A. Frame

On our machine we chose an frame, but all are adequate. The earlier needs only one brace across the front down just above the lower mount. Newer frames have this. Remove all brackets and mounts that not be used in an effort to decrease

Excessive weight full handling, acceleration, stability and Suzuki’s have approximately 9 of wire. One-half can be eliminated with a lot of decorative junk, as around radiator hoses, for For street used use and drags the center stand and keep the stand. For road racing both stands and brackets so chambers will clear.

the starter has been removed, necessary we can use a battery from a for other small bike and 1/2 the weight of the GT-750 battery. The lamp can be replaced by an earlier K10, K11, S32, to save another pound. The can be changed to an accessory 5 type with clip on brackets.

The fender can be replaced by a fiberglass or one. (Try Dick’s West). Finally and most the steering head bearing be replaced with tapered The standard steering bearings of the as on the MT50 mini-bike and will high-speed wobbles due to lack of pressure.

Steering head from the GS1000 can be modified to The rigidity of the tapered roller cannot be over emphasized for use. Of course, check for and signs of stress, although is unlikely with the GT-750 This 52 lb. frame can shed 10

The front portion of the rift on the late ’75 and later can be replaced with the earlier type to save an additional two It may seem like nit-picking, but if you a pound or two here and there, fifteen spots are covered and you may have saved twenty-five

B. Forks

Suzuki forks are We use ’73 and later forks these have disc which we will discuss The ’72 forks can be used the light weight drum for and drag racing with change, but for road racing and later discs are better. The will fade road ’76 and later forks rubber top covers are more to service, but are adequate and can be used.

The best forks are ’73 and since the dampers are of Ceriani Since much weight has shed at this point, through ’74 springs can be with comparable springs the GT-550 of the same year. and on forks must remain the

Do not increase spring tension by spacers since this cause early spring but instead choose a heavier TZ will allow the entire of the fork to be used and will proper dampening. SW will fork springs. Damper and spring weight must be chosen. A lot of people make the of stiffening the spring when should stiffened the dampening, or

Many also attribute bottoming to weak springs the fault is poor dampers, mounted fairings and other of overloading should be considered.

A. fork on a stock weight has approximately 4 of travel. When the is resting on two wheels, up to 2 is lost. As one on the bike, another inch is up, and when the bike reaches speeds, 1/2 inch of heaviness is back.

This leaves the with only 1 1/2 to work so at 150 mph, a small ripple bottom the forks resulting in is called taken slapper. is important.

As was indicated before, the is only adequate. It was only 26° rake to make up for the heaviness of the in an attempt to make its steer at low speed, but who’s going to it at 5 mph? The earlier Yamaha and 750’s have the same 28° is recommended and better, but to do this we make extensive modifications would require much expense, and five pages of It is not worth it.

The next best is remove all excess weight the bike, choose the correct (stock is inadequate in most and experiment with oils so the dampers work properly. on we will see what else the front end. As for oils, we try to ATF, and recommended 10 -W40, 20W and 30W fork oil, and mixtures of 10W and 25% all at the recommended amount. All work for applications; trial and error is the way.

A last note. re-filling, the tubes must be emptied and left to empty for at one hour.

C. Shocks

Shock play an extremely important in handling and stability. We shall first by taking the stock and making book ends out of For street and drag racing, we Konis to be the best.

Konis adjustable dampers and can be ordered matching springs. Girling have also been with excellent results with Girling adjustable gas The Konis, however, allow the rate to be adjusted for street and

This will be discussed

For road racing the founder the to be Girling gas MX medium dampening with dual springs, not Before we go further, do not use progressive springs. Girling MX shocks extra travel, approximately 5 and the can be controlled from start to With the bite of road tires along with 88 at the real, we need all of the dampening we can

Suzuki GT 500

The object here is to get constant throughout the travel during and rebound. This will, of help control the front

Confused? Here is an example This particular bike has springs but the wrong dampers. It hard out of a corner, the rear compressed making it the equivalent of a frame and leaves the front end to do all of the The bike is finally and speed and the spring shoots the tail end up but the do not dampen the spring reaction the front end to drop, losing of that critical travel.

nose dive also the fork angle to change to 25° or causing the front wheel to to turn in under the bike. are now perfect for a speed wobble called a tank slapper). Now the end is bouncing and hopping wildly 88 horses twisting the frame, and if the is lucky, he will get off with a few bruises, but he most certainly get off. It is essential that the rate and dampening rate are matched.

This is the main to stability. The rules of thumb adequate and matched travel, and rear, spring rate to be as as possible, (too stiff a will override a good and dampening that is constant the entire travel.

On our bike we use springs with ATF, and in the we use Girling gas MX shock #(un-readable) and #(un -readable) and (un-readable). is used for road racing and has a swing arm. If the swing arm is not to be shock #(un-readable) with #(un-readable) can be used.

The combination modified swing arm was stable streamlining at speeds up to 152 mph.


There seems to be a fallacy cast wheels are better spoked wheels. First of let us examined the development of cast The reason was for light weight. For we must use magnesium such as in aircraft.

Magnesium is soft, and light. Magnesium is also Load factors in drag or racing are much less than in street driving as are few potholes to worry about.

a racer does not need a wheel nearly as much as he a light one. Weight, as we earlier, is very important for in handling. Since we’re with unsprung weight located between shock device and the road), light is essential. An average magnesium with bearings and no tire set up for weighs around 7 lbs. and about $250. A street mag aluminum wheel weighs 14 lbs. and costs about

A stock Suzuki steel weighs about 131 lbs. and nothing as the rider already has it. but not least, the spoked wheel an alloy rim weighs about 8 1/2 and costs about $45. alloy wheel can also be on the street.

Since we are dealing with load, (load around the we find that at any measured a spoked wheel will some 20,000 lbs. of The cast wheel. magnesium or will withstand about the AT THE POINTS OF ATTACHMENT. These wheels have an area of 5 to 7 of empty space with no

These areas have than half the strength of the areas. On the racetrack one is not faced the problem, but if a street rider a bad pothole or bump and bends his wheel, he will be out $250. An wheel would cost him an alloy rim about $45, and a rim about $28.

For our money, the all around buy is the aluminum alloy rim on a wheel. We can buy a lot of shock absorbers to 1 1/2 lb. of unsprung weight and we can certainly to check spoked’s. On one application or rear wheel weighed 1/2 lb. than the magnesium wheel at 1/4 the $90 vs. $360. T-ring the rim and checking is far cheaper. So if money is no object, go

If you are thrifty and wise, you will use alloy rim’s.

F. Brakes

In racing, stopping is at LEAST as as going like a bat out of hell. engines offer no breaking so all of the stopping force (minus wind resistance) must from the breaks. As was mentioned the 1972 drum breaks be limited to drag racing and use.

The ’73 through double discs are more if the bike has been lightened If you are into road racing, and are an average rider, even the discs are inadequate without modification. We will discuss maximum or road race

We are attempting to give you the best power for the money.

Breaking plays a part in unsprung which help suspension. To with, do not mount these on the rear of the forks as they not designed to perform properly so mounted. Suzuki brake weight 8 lbs. each and are They are stainless steel has a low coefficient of friction, poor dissipation, and great weight. so, they can be made to work.

We do not them, but we must think of the level as well as how well can be made to work, and this is the combination. To begin with, we lightened them by drilling as in magazines. This will cut to about 5 3/4 lbs. and help off heat. The standard calipers found to be in adequate for road (they are adequate for everything

They flex too much extreme usage and give a erratic feel. They be replaced by GS-1000EC calipers and Fit to the standard junction.

Caution: on the GS-1000 are mounted in the rear, but on the they must be mounted in the They have been bold ways, and they best in the stock position. calipers are one pound each but more than two pounds have been lost on the and stopping power has been

The let us consider the rear brake. To with, the street bike in can get along with the stock but the road racer should to disk in the rear. Stock would require constant for example, some sort of must be provided by fitting an air and providing exhaust holes. shoes would have to be often. Stock units are and more reliable than shoes.

The rubber damper may get so carry an extra one and last, the heat generated will spokes to loosen, so one must check them.

A disk be fitted. A GS-750 unit can be to fit which would probably be the but the best and the lightest is the one we have up in our diagram from stock We also use one of the discarded front in order to save more

This combination of front and brake has been used and is by far the best when all factors are weight, stopping power, and

H. Tires

This is an extremely subject since all riders different preferences. We argue ourselves on this one. We only discuss our superbike.

we will have to back up a bit and rim and tire size. Street and racers do not have much of a To save money, one can retain the 19 wheel and replace only the Use of 18 rim will require an expenditure for

The 19 size will work on racing, but it will severely the selection of tires. You should fit the or WM-3 rim. In the rear, one fit at least a 3.0 or WM-5.

This is good for street and drags. The rim will all use of most tires. We a Michelin M45 3.50 x 18 at the front and a M45 4.25/85v18 at the rear. Michelin PZ2 can be used on the street but life is short (about 500 miles). On our we use a WM-3 x 18 rim at the front and a 3.5 WM-6 x 18 at the

S41PZ2 and PZ4 slicks have used at the front, while a PZ4 has been used on the rear. We are to using only road slick tires. With it becomes a necessity for all out competition, the rider is good.

Without the back rim, the bike burn a normal tire.

tires should be mentioned. We seen too many accidents in racing that were a of their use. We always use and recommended that all do likewise.

As one tire size, rim width, and the bite, handling will more accurate since becomes greater. The more the more likely the flame flex, and the more critical the will have to be. When our was conceived, flexing and bending horsepower were taken account.

The combinations we have outlined the best.

D. Swing arm

In an effort to unsprung weight and to increase we have modified ours as in the diagrams. The stock arm weighs 21 lbs. ours about 17 The 4 lb. lost aids in controlling weight. Our modification will aid rigidity.

We also found the iron and plastic bushing of the Suzuki to be inadequate and replace with Webco #2429 bushes in order to minimize On earlier Suzukis ’72 and the thread on the swing arm shaft is too so when the nut is tightened, only the is tightened, not the swing arm. can be cured by adding washers to up the slack, and torque to 45 ft. lbs.

The around the reinforcement web will to be ground away to allow for clearance. It must then be

III General

Here we will some general problems in the superbike. In porting the barrel we that a smooth rather mirror finish is more Old parts to be reused should be inspected and discarded if in doubt. carb cables can be used stock choke cables on stock and VM racing carburetors.

carburetors will require modification. Those with and later engines will to modify the oil pump arm to fit the standard style cable, also a must be added on the crankcase to the pump cable adjusting Pumps run in fixed positions consume more oil and tend to up at low speeds.

Check crankcase bushes for wear and replace if Loosen bushes will whipping and twitchy handling premature chain wear.

strength Denselube chain was to transmite power to the rear Chain play should not be than 1 1/2. Denselube’s no oil. Check all sprockets for

Use new countershaft sprockets and alloy sprockets. Don’t use nylon as they are not strong enough.

The indicator switch can be replaced by #(un-readable) from the TM-400. will eliminate the possibility of a chain wrecking the neutral switch and will also the use of a 17 tooth countershaft sprocket. sprockets can be replaced with types and can be purchased from dealers.

This is in keeping trimming weighed down to unsprung weight. For those who use the stock fuel tank superbike rule), it will be to fashion a petcock with volume to feed 3 carburetors. We may from old petcocks and made one three outlets.

Keep in that the stock petcock is operated and should not be used in a engine because it does not enough fuel and the vacuum could fail if the engine backfire.

Since our sheen is in AMA superbike and WERA superbike we had to conform to both association The only difference between the two is AMA allows for use of total loss and total removal of all starting WERA says it wants a operative electrical system and an starter system (kick or so he chose WERA rules on points.

The AMA wants handlebars at 3 high to fit stock mounts. allows any bar but it must fit stock AMA says the footrests must be in of the swing arm pivot, while the says any type of footrest can be We chose AMA on this point.

In we build the machine to comply both sets of rules. modifications will also with most drag

One note on the footrest. We chose AMA We use stock petals, however, the were modified to accept types and relocated some 3 to accommodate cornering.

We also them as narrow is possible.

The system of the GT-750 is over It is too good. Although we left the alone, size wise, on our we did cut down on our G.P. machine.

temperature of the engine must be 185° to 190°, but the system keep it at 180° to 185° so we the thermostat. Next season we make the radiator as small as it is on the bike, thus losing and providing proper engine We will then go back to the thermostat.

Although a thermostat may be to open at, say, 180°, it may to such an extent that may as early as 176° or as late as so if you have the same error at your high level may be bringing you closer to disaster the thermostat fail, and sometimes do.

At this point you will completed your rocket and have your 545 lb. buffalo to 397 lbs. 60 crankshaft hp up to 105 hp, and streetable. engine modifications can be used to power to exceed 135 hp, but remember this will require exotic ignition, transmission, and more internal lightening with extensive chassis If you wish to pursue it, contact us for

As of now you have built an extremely and competitive motorcycle. The machine be capable of top speeds of as high as 152 mph ones), 1/4 mile speeds of 10’s, and it should be competitive in at four classes combined in AMA and two or three drag classes not to a real rocketship on the street is comparable to nothing now available.

Suzuki GT 500
Suzuki GT 500
Suzuki GT 500
Suzuki GT 500


Tagged as:

Other articles of the category "Suzuki":

Our partners
Follow us
Contact us
Our contacts

Born in the USSR


About this site

For all questions about advertising, please contact listed on the site.

Motorcycles catalog with specifications, pictures, ratings, reviews and discusssions about Motorcycles.