Jetting a Suzuki DR-Z / KLX 110

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Suzuki DR-Z 110

Sep 24, 2009

Jetting a Suzuki / KLX 110

re-jetting any dirt bike or any engine for that matter is to getting it to perform and it can be a very process if you know what you are for. All carburetors work on the same principles and once are understood you can begin to understand the of re-jetting. The purpose of the carburetor is to a satisfactory fuel/air mixture to the throughout a variety of changing

This is done through a or a precise opening that only a certain amount of to pass through it. Most a number of different jets, passages etc. are used to this task. Jetting is an article I put together when my 2001 CR250 2-… and explain this in more and describe the process of re-jetting a / 2-… bike.

The bike we are with here is a 2004 DR-Z 110 with an aftermarket Leo Exhaust. With the exception of the everything is stock. The DR-Z is a KLX 110 suzuki plastics on it, so everything would apply to the KLX 110 as well. re-jetting this bike are basically 3 different things you can at as outlined in red in the diagram. They the main jet, the pilot or jet, and the jet needle.

If you are working with a stock or to stock bike, these 3 should be more than to get the bike to run very well at a of different elevations assuming else is set and working properly.

1- The Jet — provides proper at high rpm, above 1/2

2- The Pilot/Slow Jet — provides fuel at idle to approx. 1/4

3- The Jet Needle — regulates the of the main jet as the throttle is opened, 1/4 to 3/4 the needle/drop the clip to richen, the needle to lean)

The stock jet on these bikes are NOT adjustable so will only have one for the clip to go into as opposed to the groove options shown on aftermarket jet needle on the left. For a bike, the stock needle be sufficient, but an adjustable needle give more tuneability and produce more power you need it, especially if a bigger etc. is being used.

With 3 different adjustments to taking one out of the equation is not a bad thing, so you really feel the need work with the stock The purpose of the needle is to block or block the main until you on the throttle lifting the needle and the main to come on. Adjusting the can change the hit that a bike has as can the components to some degree.

Our was running fairly well at feet in elevation with the setup (80 main, 38 pilot) we took it up to 9,000 feet it started to exhibit more that before was only noticeable. The main thing stood out was the sputtering from The bike would sputter, but at rev would clear up and run OK. It was also to keep the idle consistent.

We only needed to come out an eighth turn on the air screw and the idle would not return to level immediately upon the throttle. We had to set the idle high, it would idle high and very low and sometimes …. the main is usually done by chop, ride the bike at revs loaded in say 4th gear,hit and the kill switch in till the rolls to a stop.

Look for a coffee colour on the porcelain, use a plug that has already up, Grey or white plugs are too black coffee is too rich. was definitely black and far too rich. To the problem we simply went from the stock 80 to a 78 on the main . made the bike run perfectly at the feet we normally ride the at.

We’ve kept a 75 in the pack in we need to reduce it again at the elevations. We found these for a few bucks at rocky mountain To change the main jet, the bowl will need to be I decided that it was easiest to the entire carburetor to do this, but not sure if it was necessary. The main unscrews with a flat screwdriver, then the new one can be screwed in.

I also cleaned the carburetor and all the to make sure everything was

We did not need to mess with the jet at all, however just by the main, we were able to go out a more on the air screw and the idle return to normal very and the sputtering was gone. Sometimes that seem like or the pilot jet are really to do with the after it comes off the main and the idle. It also screws your plug after a making it run even worse a while.

Before doing a main jet however, it’s important to sure all the other stuff on the is adjusted correctly and in good order including the floats, level, fuel shut off air screw etc. Start the stock settings in good order and fine tune there. Look at your and be aware of what conditions your bike run better or to know which way you need to go on the

Use common sense too. If bike is still running stock jetting and your at feet, chances are you’ll to at least go down a bit on the main. If not running perfect and the plug black it’s confirmation your not getting the best Don’t be afraid to experiment a but keep an eye on your plug and sure it doesn’t get too hot(white).

Suzuki DR-Z 110

These bikes seem forgiving, so a little rich is than a little lean. It run good not perfectly jetted and keep you at a safe level.

are some good rules of when jetting for different

Higher temps=lower air density=richer

Colder temps=higher air density=leaner

Moist air=lower air density=richer

Dry air=higher air density=leaner condition

altitude=lower air density(less pressure)=richer

Lower altitude-higher air density(more condition


Hot, Moist, and would need leaner

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