Joergs DR350 Page

13 Мар 2015 | Author: | Комментарии к записи Joergs DR350 Page отключены
Suzuki DR 350 S

Jörgs DR350 Page

the DR350SHC.

This page is the Suzuki DR350 that we between 2003 and 2006. we acquired this motorcycle for my and sometimes she allowed me to take her for a ride ;-). I liked bike — it’s a (135 kg) machine that is easy to handle.

Please that this bike has sold. Except for the material on pages, I do not have any documentation of the left, so please do not ask me where to parts etc. I suggest to ask friendly Suzuki dealer.

One of the of Dr. Little is indeed its combination of low an excellent suspension and a powerful yet engine. The bike is well for a beginner (provided your touch the ground at rest and a the same time an experienced will appreciate its handling and the suspension, which allow to across rough ground at a high speed (nevertheless, we use bike as an Enduro. and do not abuse it as a MX 😉

Under normal use, gas is surprisingly low for a motorcycle with 28 HP: 3. 4 l/100 km, usually closer to the end. Yet. the small gas of only 9 l (2 l reserve) still for a refill every 160. 200 km.

And is about the longest interval one can do on bike without a rest, as the is rather hard and narrow yet another indication that the was probably build more for the MC than for long-distance touring, she can do both very well.


The SHC model of the DR350 is equipped with an excellent fork. A detail that may ignore is that you can adjust its damping: On the bottom of the front there is an adjuster (eventually under a rubber cap; on the side you may need to remove the of the brake line). Maximum is reached if this adjuster is fully clockwise.

Stock setting is 7 clicks which is pretty soft; I ride with about 5 out.

A particular problem in our was that the previous owner had a lot of modifications — not always to the Among the positive modifications was the of a steel-lined brake line, but I have preferred that he not have removed the SHC (Seat Control) — a feature allows to vary the seat by pumping oil to/from the shock and the

As we bought it, both the rear and the front fork had valves for assisted suspension, with 0 bar at the at about 2.5 bar at the rear end, but no at all. I presume this was a from some other but never found out details.

According to the User’s Manual, the is equipped with tires in the 80/100-21 51P and 110/90-18 61P. are pretty unusual sizes; as we the DR it was equipped with Michelin in 80/90-21 48R and 110/80-18 58R. We out much later that tires were not strictly for this bike, but there a certificate (Teilegutachten) from the TÜV allowing any combination of the front and rear tire

80/100-21 51P

90/90-21 54P

110/90-18 61P


120/80-18 62P

120/90-18 65P

Among especially the 90/90-21 and 120/80-18 are common. I equipped our DR with E07 tires, which have properties both on asphalt as as on gravel roads, no matter it the is wet or dry. The only downside is the very open profile of the wheel reduces braking somewhat. — The recommended is 1.5 bar for the front and 1.8 bar for the rear wheel.

Bags and Carrier

The bike is well equipped (H4 light, instruments, good footpegs), but are also some rather details, such as the complete of even a modest form of rack. There is nothing the driver’s seat. If you want to some luggage without a rucksack, it is not easy to find a rack for a reasonable price

I came across Brian who offers an elegant, custom-built for the DR350. The only problem was shipping from Switzerland to the USA and would have added a amount of cost.

To cut a long short, we ended up with a that was basically inspired by proven design, but custom-built to our exact needs by Thierry in Tolochenaz. It exactly matched the of the topcase (. a topcase on an enduro? it’s pretty much the way, but particularly useful in traffic 😉 .

Hand Guards

If you the DR, it will land flat on its Which means that you may the clutch lever or, worse, the lever on this occasion. As a we installed a pair of handguards DELO) in 2004-06.

Mounting on the stock DR handlebar required more work than as the DR has massive weights welded the ends of the handlebar to reduce I did not want to exchange the rubber completely, so after cutting off the surprisingly tough — from the ends of the grips I a suitable hole and finally cut a M8. The handguards were delivered a set of parts that allows to fit to standard (read: hollow)

I cut the necessary parts off and used the endcaps as spacers, so that the of the throttle body would not be in any way. — The guards fit tight, but are correctly in place. On the side, the brake fluid is touching the inner part of the but this seems to be not critical and an consequence of the universal fit.

The handguards are a low-cost alternative to brands such as Acerbis, but are definitively not very stable, if they are boldly attached to the I experienced this when I the bike at rest in soft the ball-end of the clutch lever immediately (the lever was a few mm from the end — see below but I would expect those to protect the levers completely touching anything). However, a big feature of handguards in general is in spite of their modest they add quite some to the bike.

As an additional security we drilled a small hole the levers, just a few cm from the end. Should the handguards this should cause the to break at this place. of the inner side, which leave you without clutch or

Oil thermometer

In spring 2004 we an oil thermometer for the DR350. It replaces the oil dip and gives a good indication of the oil Just for the record, I once the deviation between the indicated and the temperature and found this one to be to about 3C over the range 30.


Suzuki DR 350 S
Suzuki DR 350 S

With this I learned that the DR requires some time until the oil in the upper frame reaches at 60 C: Under normal conditions, I more than 10 km of street for this. In contrast to this, as as you ride roads at low speed, or if you are in a traffic jam, the oil temperature quickly and can easily reach than 110 C.

Apart from its purpose, the thermometer has an additional it easily indicates a too-low oil if the indicated oil temperature takes a long time to reach 50 C, this means that the oil does not even touch the i.e. you are below the L mark. to add some oil!

This of thermometer is available at least in all motorcycle accessory shops in This one was a moto detail

By the way, checking the oil level of the DR is a particular topic since the oil tank is located in the upper of the frame. and when the engine is most of this oil gathers in the The original manual delivered the DR specifies two different techniques, as follows:

After the engine was at for at least 4 h, unscrew the oil check (located close to the foot lever on the right side of the If the motorcycle is leaning on the sidestand how far?), oil should just out. — If no oil is leaking out when the bike is brought the vertical position, the oil level is too low.

Let the (cold) engine run at for 3 min, then shut the off. Wait one minute, verify the oil level using the (remove cap, wipe re-insert cap but do not screw in).

The point is that these two may deliver different results: It that I measured not enough oil to the dipstick technique, but when I this with the plug oil started leaking out immediately.

Using our motorcycles almost I like to have a clock Similar to my R80GS. the simplest was to get a Sigma bicycle speedometer a BC 800) — voilà, a that is vibration resistant and has its own battery and yields yet another, tripmeter.

Installation on the DR350 was once we had figured out a suitable for the sensor parts. Here, the relais found its place on top of the original speedometer cable at the hub and the magnet was glued just two spokes at the inner side of the hub. I used brake to get a grease-free area and expoxy (Araldit) to fix both parts in

Due to the accurate calibration that can be with a bicycle speedometer, I that the original Suzuki advances about 6 %. in other an indicated speed of 100 km/h is 94 km/h in reality. The odometer is a bit more exact; it advances about 3 %.

One caveat, related to the This model is equipped some more ‘intelligence’ its predecessors. When the wheel is not for a while, it drops into a of ‘sleep mode’ where the time is shown. If you re-start this, the display will show the trip counter, no what you used before.

I find this slightly (I would like to see the actual so I have to press the button times), but according to the Sigma service there is no way to change

Charging system

According to my the DR350SH does not have any electrical problems. However, defects on japanese bikes are annoying: since these are generally not equipped with a control lamp, defects can go for quite a while. until you are with a flat battery.

To this kind of surprise, DR received an LED voltage indicator a simple device to survey the voltage, which had already useful on my BMW R80GS. It was mounted Zip-ties right above the cluster; in this picture you can see the red LED the engine is not running.

Just for the with the lights on and the engine at or above 2000/min, I measured of 14.2. 14.5 V at the battery V at 2000/min) — thus, the receives sufficient charging already just above Battery idle voltage, ignition off, was 12.9 V this is a sealed lead-acid

These data were with the battery fully (a few hours after a 100-km and with the engine still

Suzuki DR 350 S
Suzuki DR 350 S
Suzuki DR 350 S
Suzuki DR 350 S

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