Suzuki GS1000ST

26 Апр 2015 | Author: | Комментарии к записи Suzuki GS1000ST отключены
Suzuki GS 1000S

Suzuki GS1000ST (1980)

selling my first GS1000S in 1995, it wasn’t too long I was kicking myself. So finally in 2006 I went and bought very original but somewhat example for sale locally on In its favour were original faded) paint, a smoothie of an and nice handling. Against?

let’s just say there was of work to do.

I had a very enjoyable 2 1/2 with this motorcycle. But afraid the realities of family meant that we needed two and not two bikes, so the GS had to go. A very sad day, but of joy for Neil the new owner.

So what’s the big with the GS1000S? Well, a classic machine, great good handling (for the grunty engine, bullet-proof, to maintain and work on. That fairing isn’t bad in the rain, you only really get wet from knees down. Put simply, great touring machines.

One I might get another. but in the meantime, is the list of everything I did while I had the

Stuff I did (and struck off the

Running Gear

cleaning and the back brakes (not a lot of . This was just a straightforward and lubrication of the pedal hinge (it was with rust), and dismantling and of the caliper and its pistons. The tips of the nipples were also and pitted; I tried ‘reconditioning’ the old but the things still leaked fluid slowly. So I ended up new OE bleed nipples, front and

The price was only mildly

I also replaced the brake as the old ones had been contaminated oil. So much oil, in that when I swung the on them, they caught and burned vigorously for 5 minutes.

bent front brake . I tried straightening it, as you always do. But it as they always do.

rust-proofing and the fuel tank . It was pretty in there, but the POR-15 tank kit worked a treat. That was the end of the sediment gunking up the carburettors.

the rear shockies . I bought a of 2nd-hand Konis on eBay, needed a few new parts — but no there, because they’re a rebuildable shock absorber. the original Suzuki items were still on the bike 26 years, would you believe.

new and bushes in the front forks . I really gave this my shot: I used 800-grade paper to polish the rust but there was one pit which was just too So I cleaned it out, and filled it an epoxy compound (‘QuickSteel’), I have heard can do the trick on forks. Well after a of years it was still fine, so was no need to get the forks re-chromed.

Which was a good thing, re-chroming ain’t cheap, me.

Braided brake lines . The were pretty spongy; in you could feel the lines when you squeezed the lever. trusting 25-year-old hoses was going to be a bit difficult. So I fitted a ‘Hel ‘ brake kit.

Spacers to pre-load the springs . The front suspension was a bit on the side — the pneumatics is a idea but the air always leaks out so I put in a pair of 1 tubular aluminium under the fork caps to add a bit of stiffness to the front end.

fixing the fuel gauge . I thought I’d fix this when I re-lined the tank. I the fuel gauge sender from the tank, and what did I but that some enterprising had drilled a hole through the of the sender assembly. Now why anyone want to do that is beyond me. but of they managed to drill the right through the gizzards of the wire coils (sigh).

I managed to patch it up with use of the soldering iron, plugged it in to the point on the wiring loom, and . the gauge worked! Probably for the time in 20 years.

fixing the . Replaced the missing button one from some old Katana I had handy.

sorting out the charging . When I first got the bike, the were delivering no more 12.5 volts. Finally I the time to test the regulator-rectifier But when I took off the sidecover and at the wiring, it was horrifying: insulation had off the wiring, and all that was left a few green corroded copper

Frankly it was a wonder the battery was any juice at all. So I trimmed and removed ancient and troublesome connectors, soldered it all back and then it was charging at a healthy volts. I couldn’t believe I’d snatched electrical from the jaws of defeat.

And I have believed it, either, when I checked the battery hadn’t I done this Shame!) it was as dry as a bone. Hmm. so I it up filled it up with demineralised and put it on the slow charge for 8 hours. when I fired the bike up, were charging at a fairly 17.5 volts. yes folks, means a fried regulator. wonder the battery was baked

So I installed a new RR from Electrex UK. and finally it charged at a healthy 14 with the headlight on. So the stator and the were OK — really, I got off lightly.

installing a voltmeter . GS electrics being what are ( ie . borderline oompf at the best of and prone to dropping off the perch), I and mounted a voltmeter on the rear of the cluster, all very neat and using a homemade bracket. it when I sold the bike.

pulling the dent from the . You won’t believe how easy it was I used the trusty toilet I was so happy I nearly kissed it, but remembered where it had been.

rust in the seat base and the seat . I got an old seat off eBay still had a good base. it turned out to be fairly rusty, but servicable. I took off the rust a wire brush on the electric treated the base with acid to convert the remaining and then painted it with two of epoxy-based paint.

I also the base with a couple of of flat iron over the where the rust had reduced the over the years. That it as stiff as a board and ready for the and reupholstering. Then I managed to up a 2nd-hand but spotless seat on eBay.

It fitted on really and it looked great.

finding an GS1000 grab rail on . Naturally, everyone was chucking things in the bin when the GS first out. but now that we all want to them, the things are hard to So I ended up buying an entire with the grab rail on it.

sourcing a centre-stand grab . This is the small chrome that sits immediately the LHS rear shock-absorber, and it’s you grab to help pop the bike on the It was missing from the bike I got it, but thankfully they abound on (Did I mention I love

new brake light lens . an after-market item from the UK on Perfect.

replacing the cracked screen . Got the replacement made by Screens Australia. here in Perth WA. John gave me service and made sure the screen was spot-on in every

repainting just about Well that was the intention but that work will now to the new owner. But I did manage to source a decal for the tail-piece.

cleaning and polishing acres of . I forked out and bought a polishing kit buffing mop that bolts the end of a benchgrinder axle) and have the time-consuming work of taking years of oxide from the cover, points cover, cover, and alternator cover. A bit to do, but the end result is well worth it.

those not-very-useful-except-for-looking-at-your-elbows mirrors . weren’t original, anyway GSX-R items) — so I them on eBay. Then my mate Paul kindly and gave me a pair of bar-end I used them on the end of the bars for a and got the usual excellent visibility.

But as the was my preferred bike for commuting Perth, lane-splitting got a bit difficult at with those mirrors out there. I hunted around on for a while, and eventually took a with a pair of after-market to suit 01-02 GSX-R’s. some minor modification of the they fitted on quite With their slightly mirror profile and reasonably stems, you got a fairly panoramic of things behind you.

were also pretty resistant, ensuring that remained in sharp focus at all

re-plating or replacing a myriad of fasteners . I bought a set of SS engine Allen bolts on eBay. It was all except the set was one bolt short. so an M6x85mm bolt from Fasteners — a top online with just about you’d require fastener-wise on a


general tune-up, oil change . etc .

checked timing strobe light . Not that was anything to indicate that it be out, but I have learnt not to anything when buying a machine.

new spark plugs . fixed the misfiring that was over 5000rpm — I love a simple solution.

out the carburettors . As expected, there was of rust sludge throughout the which called for a total soaking in carb-cleaning fluid, and out with compressed air.

the carbies . For starters, they had very incorrectly set up. The slides open far too much, which that the engine wouldn’t at the correct speed. So someone had set the circuit to run rich in order to peg the idle speed back!

partly explains why the plugs sooty black and the fuel was shot to pieces (like 10kms per litre — as a car!).

But she was still running which at first I put down to needle jets — but it out to be (mostly) the valve timing. right, SN models should 20 camchain link pins the timing marks on the camshaft but ST’s (such as this) only have 19 . What a it made: power and fuel were restored!

Unfortunately past tinkerers couldn’t leave the air mixture and screws alone, so it fell to me to put right .

Helpfully (hah!), all my manual would tell me the air screw and pilot screw was that they were (Subtext: If you have been a boy and tweaked them or found fiddled with, tough Sigh. so it was that I fiddled for weeks on and off, experimenting my heart out but basically getting

But then I managed to jag an original GS1000 workshop manual on and within 5 minutes of pulling it out of the the magic numbers were 1 3/4 turns out for the air screws, and 5/8 turns out for the screws. Eureka! Immediately the low down performance was transformed to it should be: smooth and user-friendly.

Suzuki GS 1000S
Suzuki GS 1000S

while we’re at it, if you have a GS1000 SN — with the VM28SS carbies — the numbers are: 1 1/4 turns out for the air and 3/4 turns out for the pilot screws.]

the exhaust system and muffler . The was 1/2 choked by a DUD of an exhaust system it with. I tried looking for on eBay, but they were way too expensive, and aftermarket items manufacturers here in Australia off the scale of reasonable cost,

So in the end I thought, Why not make my own muffler? I something that resembled the GS mufflers, ie . a long classic shape. After a bit of digging on the Internet, I discovered that the of the classic-looking Dunstall mufflers basically: 2 diameter to 4 diameter a length of 2′. (Now in it’s just a truncated so the formula to translate this to a shape is quite straight-forward.)

I the sheet metal (1mm mild steel, ungalvanised), and cut out the shapes accurately with a Then it was over the street to with his metal-bending machinery and TIG It was all assembled around a 2 (51mm) length of exhaust pipe, fibreglass wadding to dampen the

Well, the end result was excellent . The looked the part with its dimensions, it was reasonably quiet, and yet was a nice note there as For more details, go to my muffler article on my tech pages .

installing stainless steel flange studs . The old rusty holding the exhaust system to the were barely doing the So I made up some studs 8mm stainless rod — much Naturally, removing the old bolts straightforward; bolt #8 (WHY is it the last bolt you go to undo?) to shear off, leaving a stub poking out of the head.

so I spent the next 1.5 hours it free with the mole Grrr.

fit an oil cooler . After gotten my mitts on an oil cooler I tracked down what I was a suitable oil cooler on eBay and it all in. It all worked wonderfully until I that, under full the mudguard clipped the lower edge of the oil cooler. Doh.

So I up tracking down a 2nd-hand item, and it fitted in there a I also got the hoses routed the fuel tank, so it all looked neater too.

Oil cooler seem to go for silly money on If you’d like one at a more price, and take it from

cleaning out the sump and oil strainer . racking up the kilometres these can get pretty blocked up, slowing oil to critical things like the and crankshaft bearings. So I dropped the plate off, and there was the litany of horrors I have in all the older bikes I’ve tarry sludge, metal aluminium shavings, small and ‘ribbons’ of silicone, etc.

The oil actually wasn’t too bad, but I it and gave it a thorough cleaning Of course, Philips-head screw #3 held the strainer in place had to be before it would budge. Why never put hex-headed bolts there is another little

Anyway it was all now clean as a whistle and for another quarter-century of service.

rebuild . After going for a with a mate on the GS1000S and me on the Katana, I saw for myself the shamefully cloud of blue smoke the throttle was rolled off, at highway speed. It was so bad that it was a plod hadn’t pulled me

So the next day, my curiosity got the of me and I pulled the top end apart. Hardened old seals and worn rings the main culprits. Carbon on the valve seats wasn’t either.

I had a motorcycle engineer up the pistons and bores, and to my relief a kit wasn’t needed — a hone and a fresh set of rings bring things up to scratch. it was all apart, I lapped in the valves, and cleaned things up.

It all went back together and started on about the 4th revolution of the Over the next few thousand the engine ran-in nicely, and you easily feel the bike’s grunt and willingness. No more oil burnt, no more clouds of and plenty of extra horsepower.

Engine rebuild page .

replacing the cracked oil level . I ended up buying a spare cover off eBay, and swapped the sight-glass for the busted one in my existing cover. Swapping the sight-glasses was enough; they are simply a

new seal for tacho cable . Alas, the local bearing stocked everything except the seal required — meant I had to submit once to the extortion that is the Suzuki counter. So, planning ahead, I two of the suckers.

rebuilding the clutch . The old clutch was rattling away at no amount of carb-balancing would get rid of it, so it was to pull it to bits and set to work .

new clutch . These aren’t the best design feature of the Suzuki engines. After a they disintegrate, and the rollers can and the little springs get eaten, etc . So I out more hard-earned dosh at the parts counter, ‘coz no one makes starter clutches, of

* * * * *

When he sold me the bike, the owner kindly gave me an old Two magazine, complete with a of the 1979 model GS1000S. The Two crew have given me to make this available Click on the thumbnails to view the pages of the article.

* * * * *

Differences the ST and SN models

Here in Australia, the was available for two years: 1979 SN model) and 1980 (the Below I’ve tried to the differences between the models as we them in Australia . If you think of the info. here isn’t go ahead and email me, and if I agree you I’ll fix it.

Suzuki GS 1000S
Suzuki GS 1000S
Suzuki GS 1000S

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